who’s got in stock ready to ship and at a decent price? I need 2 head to header and one doughnut gasket for the header of a 2012 900 xp.–will be getting from swingarm1 aka Tim
SRA wheels on an IRS?
Anyone running SRA wheels all the way around on their IRS bike? If so post up some pics, and tell me why it is a bad or good idea.
I realize that it would have some negative impact on things like ball joints, but it will have good impact on things like running wide tires all the way around, and not fitting perfectly in everyone else ruts.
SRA wheels on an IRS?
Anyone running SRA wheels all the way around on their IRS bike? If so post up some pics, and tell me why it is a bad or good idea.
I realize that it would have some negative impact on things like ball joints, but it will have good impact on things like running wide tires all the way around, and not fitting perfectly in everyone else ruts.
HELP…axles popping/new axles and wheels and tires
Hello,i haven’t posted in a long time so this may lengthy, i hope i’m doing this right!! I need help, so any input is greatly appreciated. I have a 09 outlander 800 with out lift kit at all and i had 26" big horns on it when i got it and i sold them and purchased 27" efx moto tires and decided i didn’t want them and i really stepped up with 12" itp wheels with 28x10x12 and 28x12x12 silverback tires. I never had a problem with my axles popping out till i put the silverbacks on. I thought the first time the right rear came out it was a fluke type thing because my daughter was just riding it around the yard. Bought a new rear diff seal,pop the axle back in and the way i went…rode it for miles no problem in the mud,dirt and water…took it on a trip with a bunch if friends and i backed it off the trailer boom the rear right popped out again. Got it back home and i put new seals in the rear diff again and put new clips in the inner part of the axles,new rear bearings,sway/torsion bar bearings….and the way i went again..i prolly rode another 300-500 miles before i took the same trip with my friends i took the year prior when it broke taking it off the trailer. Now this time i rode 3 days in snow,mud and gravel roads when on the 3rd nite i was going through some snow and high sided it and that’s when "both" of the rear axles fell out again. I ride pretty hard at times now and then. I can’t figure it out at all. I had to towed back about 10 miles and i’m getting sick of it. Now i got it home all tore apart. I took the rear shocks off and found out they were shot!!! I ordered new shocks all the way around,new rear diff seals again,two new aftermarket axles for the rear completely assembled. Took the itp wheels and silverbacks off and ordered 27" Sedona rip saws on 14" MSO m12 diesels. I have yet to get it back together but what do you all think the problem is and am i doing the right thing??? Is it tires? Bad shocks? I just want this to end and i don’t have to worry about it!! One more question…do oem axles plunge in and out on both the inner and outter cv joints? The new one’s i ordered only plunge on the inner side so i called the company i purchased from and they told me the oem should only plunge on the inner CV. Now i’m not sure if these are aftermarket one’s i took out because i purchased the quad with 600 miles on it. The company told me as long as they are the same length as the oem’s only the inner cv needs to plunge. Sound rite? Any input is gonna help because i’m really getting irritated with the bike!!:th_smiliefrustrated:th_smiliepissed:
Not a good day
G/F and I went for a ride coupe weeks ago. She pulled in front of me and slowed down, my left front hit her right rear, flipping the bike over and ending up upside down. Thankfully have full coverage, so took it to a dealer to have them check it out and fix it. I got a call Friday, and looks like it’s gonna get totaled. $4500 just in parts. Frame, steering stem/bars, right tie rod/CV shaft, both rear trailing arms, plastics, grab bar, brand new full Muzzy exhaust :th_smiliefrustrated and some other stuff I can’t remember. But what pisses me off, blue book on it is $6500-6900, depending what book you use. Machine is in excellent condition, not even 800 miles yet. I asked the insurance company about if it does get totaled, how will they come up with an amount to replace it. They said there is no blue book for ATVs, which is obviously BS, KBB and NADA. But he said they go by current market value. That would be so much better than the blue book, since I paid $8k for just about a year ago. Every 1000 ‘gade I see is well over that. I should hear from them early this week, already missed out on a mud race today, and end of the month is another good ride in Hancock NY. I miss it already…:sad:
But what’s weird is I was only doing bout 20 when it went over. I’m sure it’s the 800 pounds that did the damage, but damn, totaling it??? Riding the grizz just isn’t the same.
Wheel bearings?
Ok so I got 2000km outta mine and I don’t do mud. Just wondering what everyone else is getting outta them? Also do I go stock or aftermarket replacments?
Looking at 800 S
I have a chance to pic k up a fairly stock 2012 RZR 800. S orange, black and white. Looks to be a super clean unit. Wondering how is the power on the 800? I have a built Commander and want another unit for at our cabin for my boys and guest. Price is 8900.00 which seems fair not a steal.
Appreciate any input, thank you in advance
PEP UTV
Is anyone else unable to get on PEPUTV’s website? Had some friends get their shocks done there and was looking at doing the same.
review SUPERATV 900S plastic doors.
doors came from UPS is a slightly damaged box but contents were fine.
the 2 doors, 2 lower braces, hardware and instructions.
Instructions in the package were for the 1000, So I downloaded the 900 instructions. Couple things the instructions tell you to do you can skip, you don’t have to remove door handles, maybe loosen if you have issues fitting at the end. YOu also dont have to remove the hinge pivot bushings.
the fit of the stock frame to the plastic doors had me worried, I dry fitted it and some hole were about 1/8 in off. I attached the lower brace to the stock frame, leaving it loose to adjust for fit. then attached frame to new door. Start by attaching the middle of the frame to the door, then work your way to the outside. This was the hardest part as I had to push, pull and force the frame to line up with screw holes. The screws at the door handle were the most off, I put them on after I attached the door to the ATV.
It was easy to align the doors at the end with the ATV, just hold door in position and tighten hinges. No ride with the doors yet. The main goal is to reduce mud, time will tell.
the 2 doors, 2 lower braces, hardware and instructions.
Instructions in the package were for the 1000, So I downloaded the 900 instructions. Couple things the instructions tell you to do you can skip, you don’t have to remove door handles, maybe loosen if you have issues fitting at the end. YOu also dont have to remove the hinge pivot bushings.
the fit of the stock frame to the plastic doors had me worried, I dry fitted it and some hole were about 1/8 in off. I attached the lower brace to the stock frame, leaving it loose to adjust for fit. then attached frame to new door. Start by attaching the middle of the frame to the door, then work your way to the outside. This was the hardest part as I had to push, pull and force the frame to line up with screw holes. The screws at the door handle were the most off, I put them on after I attached the door to the ATV.
It was easy to align the doors at the end with the ATV, just hold door in position and tighten hinges. No ride with the doors yet. The main goal is to reduce mud, time will tell.
10″ steel rims
Looking for 2 steel 10" wheels. bolt pattern doesnt matter.
