What am I going to do with my 80yr old dad, he took the 570 for his first ride today, I told him to run it in low for a little while to break in the belt, he just called me and said that it was popping around 30mph in low , I laughed told him I think it’s alright for him to run in hi, I’m glad he’s out riding. :yikes:
ATV-GURU / Broken Bolt Question
So, as I was attempting to mount my new brush guard on the front, I managed to snap one of the mounting bolts! :damnit::banghead:
It was tight going in due to the self-tapper that was in there prior. I should have ran a tap thru the hole first, but I was just so damned excited to finally have my brush guards that I was rushing it. (the six-week wait was hell!!!)
My question is: Should I take my time and try to drill the broken bolt out without damaging the threads too much? Or, should I go ahead and drill them both for a 5/16-18? I believe the existing holes are threaded 1/4-20 to begin with.
What say you???
new member sportsman 570 100 mile review
So after reading and researching on my first quad purchase I feel I owe it to this forum to do a basic review. Purchase price (5788.00)+ 2.99% 6 k otd.6 month warranty.purchase date 2/26/15(missed 5 year warranty by 2days)build date 10/30/14 did proper break in.machine has more power than I need.no boiling gas/melted seat.I do notice heat on my right leg(only in low gear for extended period of time) but not to hot to ride.i have never owned a quad so don’t know what to compare to.extremely smooth suspension some clunking when slowing down(apparently normal) but have learned to prevent it using throttle.bought a badlands 2500 winch(49$) for emergencies just haven’t got KFI mount yet.two small issues I had were brake reservoir not tight(on left handlebar) ruined 2 nice shirts during break in and noticed tires wearing uneven (25psi)not 5.asked service manager for open bottle of brake fluid to fill back up no problem.so far happy customer thanks again to everyone on this forum.
Advice Requested – Traxter Water & Starting Issues
Also posted this under the General Can Am/BRP forum…
I have a recently purchased 2001 Traxter 500 (Elec. Thumb Shift) w/600 miles. Up until this weekend it has run fine, but only around the neighborhood…nothing too crazy. I took it out this weekend with my daughters and got out, off road. Crossed a creek (12-18" deep), rode around on the "mountain" trails for about 30 mins w/ no issues. Came down the mountain and then decided to go back up. On the way back up, after bouncing over a small downed tree, the machine lost power and died. Tried to start it several times w/ no luck. Found a little clear water in the air box. Let it sit for a few minutes and then she started back up and idled, no choke, for several minutes then died again. Towed it back in and let it sit overnight.
The next morning, drained the carb, removed and checked plugs (got fire), checked oil (found it milky w/milkshake on bottom of oil cap), found small amount of clear water coming from crankcase/valve cover vent through PCV valve (PCV still woks) & coolant in reservoir is full and very clean. Changed the oil (10w40), removed and cleaned the carb and blew out jets and she started back up easily. I drove it around for about 30-45 minutes and noticed that at higher RPMs in each gear the engine would hesitate or stutter a bit unless I gave it more throttle or shifted. Returned back to camp and again, found a little more water in the air box and a slight bit of water droplets on oil cap. Started again (no problem) to trailer it and then took it along bumpy road to another area. Later tried to start it again, and it would almost start and backfire several times, but no luck. Now it won’t start at all, just turns over.
From the oil standpoint, clearly the unit has taken on water to some degree before I owned it, but I’m also puzzled over the clear water in the air box. Not sure if I’ve got two different issues or if these are related. I was told when I bought it the oil had just been changed and I believe it had because the oil was clear, but I now suspect the oil had been changed in response to taking on water, but had yet to become milky.
My gut says the not starting issue is still something with the carb, but I’m curious what others with more experience on these machines my think.
Advice requested – Traxter Water and Starting Issues
I have a recently purchased 2001 Traxter 500 (Elec. Thumb Shift) w/600 miles. Up until this weekend it has run fine, but only around the neighborhood…nothing too crazy. I took it out this weekend with my daughters and got out, off road. Crossed a creek (12-18" deep), rode around on the "mountain" trails for about 30 mins w/ no issues. Came down the mountain and then decided to go back up. On the way back up, after bouncing over a small downed tree, the machine lost power and died. Tried to start it several times w/ no luck. Found a little clear water in the air box. Let it sit for a few minutes and then she started back up and idled, no choke, for several minutes then died again. Towed it back in and let it sit overnight.
The next morning, drained the carb, removed and checked plugs (got fire), checked oil (found it milky w/milkshake on bottom of oil cap), found small amount of clear water coming from crankcase/valve cover vent through PCV valve (PCV still woks) & coolant in reservoir is full and very clean. Changed the oil (10w40), removed and cleaned the carb and blew out jets and she started back up easily. I drove it around for about 30-45 minutes and noticed that at higher RPMs in each gear the engine would hesitate or stutter a bit unless I gave it more throttle or shifted. Returned back to camp and again, found a little more water in the air box and a slight bit of water droplets on oil cap. Started again (no problem) to trailer it and then took it along bumpy road to another area. Later tried to start it again, and it would almost start and backfire several times, but no luck. Now it won’t start at all, just turns over.
From the oil standpoint, clearly the unit has taken on water to some degree before I owned it, but I’m also puzzled over the clear water in the air box. Not sure if I’ve got two different issues or if these are related. I was told when I bought it the oil had just been changed and I believe it had because the oil was clear, but I now suspect the oil had been changed in response to taking on water, but had yet to become milky.
My gut says the not starting issue is still something with the carb, but I’m curious what others with more experience on these machines my think.
Aftermarket skid plates
So recently I was spraying down the bike after a ride and I took the plastics off the center of the bike to spray down the lower part of the motor and there was a ton of mud and garbage caked between the oem skid plate and the bottom of the motor. I sprayed and sprayed and got most of it out, but it seems like a lot of the gunk in there was from rides as early as last year!
My question is, does anyone run aftermarket skid plates under their ride? I want to try and keep this mud and garbage out of there so I wont run into overheating issues and other things down the road, but I also have heard that to change the oil you will have to take the aftermarket plates off. I would like to do something to try and help but I am unsure of which way to go here. Any opinions and ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Lubricant to remove a-arm bolts?
Hope to see a change in weather soon so it’s nearly time for maintenance while awaiting for the white crap to melt. I know, most have probably done their maintenance before winter storage.
No idea what I’ll be up against but thought I’d ask about penetrating oil for the bushings/bolts. I’ve read else where that PB may ruin the bushings so figured I’d ask before touching anything. Thanks in advance.
Jas
Reviving the war horse
Finally got my old ’86 TRX back to running condition. Still needs a bit of spit and polish, but at least it runs. This quad has been dead reliable the whole time I’ve owned it(typical Honda) but a teenage son can be hard on stuff! Being that it is an OLD machine, and parts are hard to come by upgrades are done creatively. Swapped wheels with a Rancher several years ago for better tire options, but the exhaust was a sticking point. Well, got crazy with the sawzall over the weekend and pieced together a setup with left-over parts from a 400EX I used to have. It’s still a work in progress, but at least I have a solid, mostly non-leaky, "aftermarket" exhaust system now.
Reviving the war horse
Finally got my old ’86 TRX back to running condition. Still needs a bit of spit and polish, but at least it runs. This quad has been dead reliable the whole time I’ve owned it(typical Honda) but a teenage son can be hard on stuff! Being that it is an OLD machine, and parts are hard to come by upgrades are done creatively. Swapped wheels with a Rancher several years ago for better tire options, but the exhaust was a sticking point. Well, got crazy with the sawzall over the weekend and pieced together a setup with left-over parts from a 400EX I used to have. It’s still a work in progress, but at least I have a solid, mostly non-leaky, "aftermarket" exhaust system now.
carb? not sure.
ive got a piped 300ex. it had a 42 pilot and 130 main which were both to rich for it. so i went down to a 40 pilot and 125 main. when i barely tap the throttle, like 1/12 throttle, and try to hold it there, its like kill switch. the engine just dies. no idea? little help?
300ex
white brothers full system, uni filter, riding about 1000 ft above sea lvl. thanks guys.
