I’ve have a grizz 700. It is the 2014 model with quite a few changes from the previous several years. They changed the a arms and springs on that year. I’m finding my rear springs/suspension is quite soft. I watched and compared my rear ground clearance, with just one rider on it, to my other two partners grizzlys, 2006 and 2010. Both there grizzlys are identical in the rear suspension, and there rear ground clearance is many inches higher than the downward sloping a arms. On my 2014, with the different spring/a arm combo, the rear skid plate is virtually parallel with the rear a arms, and when I go over even light bumps, my quad squishes down with upward sloping a arms, and not too much ground clearance! It also causes my rear wheels to camber in at the tops too much. I even maxed out my five slot spring adjusters to the stiffest!
So my question is….
Why is the 2014 so much softer in the back end?
And how do I fix it??
Spring spacers???
If so, which spacers are the best????
And how many do I need, length?????
Thanks guys for any feed back!!:happy:
What weight oil is the Can am all season oil? Just curious so I know what weight to check out in Royal Purple or AMSOIL. Or what should I run for the summer???
I purchased a used 2001 rubicon about 2 months ago, it was in great shape and only had 2000 miles on it and i think about 250 hours. Seller said it had been sitting for awhile and needed carb cleaned. It cranked fine and ran good untill i put it in esp mode and it sputtererd a little so i put it back in d1 paid the man and left. Got it home rode it for about 30 min and the angle sensor went out. Changed sensor and it fixed THAT problem. Carb still acting up at this point. Now it cranks up no problem and runs fine for about 2 min and starts sputtering when i give it gas (worse in warm weather). Runs great at higher speeds. I cleaned carb twice, rebuilt carb, plug air filter all that and still sputters. It seems to be getting worse but its getting warmer outside witch is making me think its something electrical especaily because it dont act right in esp mode. I put meter on throttel sensor and it was in range also. Ecm maybe? Diode somewhere maybe? At the end of my rope with this thing. Please tell me something good. Thanks
I purchased a used 2001 rubicon about 2 months ago, it was in great shape and only had 2000 miles on it and i think about 250 hours. Seller said it had been sitting for awhile and needed carb cleaned. It cranked fine and ran good untill i put it in esp mode and it sputtererd a little so i put it back in d1 paid the man and left. Got it home rode it for about 30 min and the angle sensor went out. Changed sensor and it fixed THAT problem. Carb still acting up at this point. Now it cranks up no problem and runs fine for about 2 min and starts sputtering when i give it gas (worse in warm weather). Runs great at higher speeds. I cleaned carb twice, rebuilt carb, plug air filter all that and still sputters. It seems to be getting worse but its getting warmer outside witch is making me think its something electrical especaily because it dont act right in esp mode. I put meter on throttel sensor and it was in range also. Ecm maybe? Diode somewhere maybe? At the end of my rope with this thing. Please tell me something good. Thanks
So, I’m the proud owner of a new griz and I have ordered a set of Outlaws. 28×9.5-12 for the front and 28×12.5-12 for the rear. 1.25" lug. I have a shim kit coming that has 2x 1mm, a .5mm and a .2mm. Being as my bday is coming up, my bro ordered an EPI mudder clutch kit (0-3000′, 28-29.5" tires), and my girlfriend ordered the EHS Big 3 kit for the ’14+ grizzly’s.
Now for my question. I run medium mud/muskeg and pretty fast trails with lots of hills. What size shims would be a good starting point to try at first? Will I likely over rev on the flat parts of the trail?
I was thinking the other day about weather or not to cut out that "guide" that makes you put the shifter in nuetral b4 going into reverse or high. I was thinking it would just be so much smoother to just slide from park to low and visa versa. Not a big issue i just feel like my hand is all over the place when i shift haha. Anyone else thought about this or has done it. First inwas thinking it was a safty thing but then thought mabe the trans has to engage in to nuatral position b4 it can go into reverse or foward gear.
2007 Polaris Hawkeye 4×4. Quad is in great shape, very well maintained, runs great. We run Amsoil in it, greased often. My son has out grown it. It has 115 hours, 1200 miles. Asking $3200. Thanks
Sorry if this is an overly basic or common question, but I just don’t know. What are the deciding factors in the gear selection? I’ve generally been keeping it on low if I know my speed will be consistently under 10 mph. If there is a split between < > 10, I generally choose high. If I’m going down a steep hill, I usually stop and change to low.
I have a short .6 mile loop around my property through the woods on a trail I have built. It’s a real mix of terrain in that short space. Straight, curvy, rocky, flat, level, steep. I’ve been staying mostly in high. I had a friend over the other day who believes low gear is the place to stay unless you’re going fast in an open field or very long trail. He stayed on low on my trail but generally went as fast as me.
So, what do you say? It’s a ’15 570 eps if that matters.
