Grizz. 700 shifter problem
My 2010 Grizzly 700 would not shift out of PARK. I checked the brakes; that was not the problem. I removed body panels from both sides and traced the cables from the foot shifter and found that there was a cable that crossed over the top of the motor to a "detent" next to the shifter. This "detent" was stuck and I released it with penetrating oil and a judicious application of axle grease. A hammer and cold chisel provided the necessary incentive. I bought this bike about 4 months ago and the previous owner NEVER cleaned or rinsed the bike. A lot of surface rust. It runs like a champ now and no further shifter problems.
Clutch problem
Hello Im a diesel and Automotive tech but not really for quads and tranny! Need some help about 6 months ago my quad wouldnt move and was smoking took her into the dealer and they said i needed new clutches one and two and the belt was on the back side of the clutchs and so i need new belt and they said something about shift linkage. Everything was well over 2000 bucks is there a way i can rebuilt both cluches or find oem ones I just want the stock set up for a hole lot less or know anyone in the San Antonio area that can help me out!! Thanks guys! Links to products and how to’s would we great! right now all my clutches and parts and just sitting in the cover =( :th_smiliepullhair:
Clutch problem
Hello Im a diesel and Automotive tech but not really for quads and tranny! Need some help about 6 months ago my quad wouldnt move and was smoking took her into the dealer and they said i needed new clutches one and two and the belt was on the back side of the clutchs and so i need new belt and they said something about shift linkage. Everything was well over 2000 bucks is there a way i can rebuilt both cluches or find oem ones I just want the stock set up for a hole lot less or know anyone in the San Antonio area that can help me out!! Thanks guys! Links to products and how to’s would we great! right now all my clutches and parts and just sitting in the cover =( :th_smiliepullhair:
4wd Testing/Repair Step by Step with Videos and Parts Links
Yamaha 4wd Testing Procedures
I’ve included links to videos and parts. To see clips of the service manual pertaining to these tests look here. 501parts.com – Downloads
These are the most common problems that happen. If there is something else you’d like to see just let me know.
Problem 1—4wd won’t work at all, and does nothing when the button is pressed.
Step 1– Check the fuse
Step 2– Tap on the relays, one could be stuck (Two black with G8HN# on top and one white relay on most models.) Also check the connections on the servo and relays to make sure they’re connected properly.
Step 3– Remove the front diff servo and proceed to test it (need two c batteries, T-45 tamper proof torx, and a 6 mm allen. Some use 10mm regular hex bolts) see video https://youtu.be/6BiuD5qfCw4
If it tests bad, you can find a replacement motor here. 501Parts.com – Yamaha Servo Motors
If you need the bits to remove it from the front diff you can find them at any parts store or you can order them here. 501Parts.com – Yamaha Servo Motors
If it tests good, proceed to next step.
Step 4– Test the three relays. You’ll need a multi-meter set on the lowest ohms setting usually 200, and a short run of wire to power up the relays. See video https://youtu.be/phNDJka5tBA
If they test bad, you can find a replacement here.
501Parts.com – Yamaha Servo Motors
If they test good, proceed to the next step.
Step 5– Test the push button switch (you’ll need a multi-meter set to ohms) see videos
https://youtu.be/Q-B83KDHX3c
https://youtu.be/SGz2ZivOAj8
For a switch that tests bad, you could try cleaning it before buying one. See video. https://youtu.be/rCNTXsrnRaQ
If it tests bad after cleaning or you just want a new one, you can find it here. 501Parts.com – Yamaha Servo Motors
If it tests good, proceed to the next step.
Step 6– At this point you are certain your servo, relays, and switch are good. Next, you’ll want to start tracing wires looking for anything that’s frayed or broken. Common places for problems are under the fusebox on SxS’s, under the front racks on the ATV’s. Also check the connections under the relays beneath the seat on the ATV’s. You may have to untape and untie your wires to get to the problem.
If you’ve tried all of this and still can’t get it going, you are welcome to call me at 501-658-0219 and I’ll help you through it.
I’ve included links to videos and parts. To see clips of the service manual pertaining to these tests look here. 501parts.com – Downloads
These are the most common problems that happen. If there is something else you’d like to see just let me know.
Problem 1—4wd won’t work at all, and does nothing when the button is pressed.
Step 1– Check the fuse
Step 2– Tap on the relays, one could be stuck (Two black with G8HN# on top and one white relay on most models.) Also check the connections on the servo and relays to make sure they’re connected properly.
Step 3– Remove the front diff servo and proceed to test it (need two c batteries, T-45 tamper proof torx, and a 6 mm allen. Some use 10mm regular hex bolts) see video https://youtu.be/6BiuD5qfCw4
If it tests bad, you can find a replacement motor here. 501Parts.com – Yamaha Servo Motors
If you need the bits to remove it from the front diff you can find them at any parts store or you can order them here. 501Parts.com – Yamaha Servo Motors
If it tests good, proceed to next step.
Step 4– Test the three relays. You’ll need a multi-meter set on the lowest ohms setting usually 200, and a short run of wire to power up the relays. See video https://youtu.be/phNDJka5tBA
If they test bad, you can find a replacement here.
501Parts.com – Yamaha Servo Motors
If they test good, proceed to the next step.
Step 5– Test the push button switch (you’ll need a multi-meter set to ohms) see videos
https://youtu.be/Q-B83KDHX3c
https://youtu.be/SGz2ZivOAj8
For a switch that tests bad, you could try cleaning it before buying one. See video. https://youtu.be/rCNTXsrnRaQ
If it tests bad after cleaning or you just want a new one, you can find it here. 501Parts.com – Yamaha Servo Motors
If it tests good, proceed to the next step.
Step 6– At this point you are certain your servo, relays, and switch are good. Next, you’ll want to start tracing wires looking for anything that’s frayed or broken. Common places for problems are under the fusebox on SxS’s, under the front racks on the ATV’s. Also check the connections under the relays beneath the seat on the ATV’s. You may have to untape and untie your wires to get to the problem.
If you’ve tried all of this and still can’t get it going, you are welcome to call me at 501-658-0219 and I’ll help you through it.
Problem 2—I have replaced my servo motor or cleaned my servo assembly but now I’ve gotten it out of time and it’s not working properly.
Step 1– First you want to make sure not to bolt it up before you know certain it’s working. You should have the slide gear inside the diff to the left if you’re sitting on or in the seat (or to the front of the bike for those that go back and forth instead of left and right), have button in 4wd and the servo should be timed to 2wd.
See these videos for cleaning and retiming.
https://youtu.be/IlXKTR46sSg
https://youtu.be/PqdEdRqxS6M
Problem 3—My ATV or SXS goes into 4wd or diff lock but will not come back out.
Step 1– Try tapping on or swapping your two black relays and see what happens (if something changes then one is bad) proceed to test the relays to determine which one. You will break the clips off removing them. Almost no way around it.
See video https://youtu.be/phNDJka5tBA
For a replacement 501Parts.com – Yamaha Servo Motors
Problem 4—My relays just click when I try and go in 4wd but I don’t hear the servo working.
Step 1– Ensure the connection on the servo is tight and connected properly. If it is proceed to next step.
Step 2– Remove the front diff servo and proceed to test it (need two c batteries, T-45 tamper proof torx, and a 6 mm allen. Some use 10mm regular hex bolts) see video https://youtu.be/6BiuD5qfCw4
If it tests bad, you can find a replacement motor here. 501Parts.com – Yamaha Servo Motors
If you need the bits to remove it from the front diff you can find them at any parts store or you can order them here. 501Parts.com – Yamaha Servo Motors
While you are inside the diff, ensure the slide gear can be moved back and forth with your finger with ease. You may have to roll it a little to get it to move but should move freely. If it does not move freely, you can remove the allen screw cap and then remove the slide rod and gear with an allen wrench. The gear, rod and fork will come out. You can clean the slide rod up with emery cloth or light grit sandpaper.
Motor Compatibility
I am wondering, what years will a motor out of an 88 300 fit in terms of just transplanting it into another bike.
Thanks!
Weekend Ride (pics)
Attended an annual local atv run on Saturday. Was a good time. there had to have been around 100 machines there (50% Polaris).
Planned to record the entire thing then edit the footage down to make a nice little YouTube video to share, but instead I somehow changed the settings on my Drift so I was taking pictures every x seconds and NOT video :aargh4: To top if off it didn’t capture 90% of the good stuff. But lesson learned and now I know how to change that feature via the wireless wristband. ANYWAYS:
About the ride:
There were a few mud holes and water crossings but otherwise it was VERY dusty. Glad I had the Wolfsnount. Took the Ranger, never got stuck. Had to yank out my brother in law on his Grizzly a couple times but he was trying to go where heavily modded quads were getting stuck. That Grizzy lost low range and reverse at about the middle of the run, and was overheating at the end. Other carnage would be a wildcat that rolled right at the beginning of the run. An arctic cat Mud Pro that drown, and some 19-20 year old who blew the belt on his dads new Ranger. I had a spare with me so after letting the kid sweat for a little while I went over and hooked him up. He paid me for the belt and was very greatful.
Other honorable mentions:
There was a two day old $27,000 Highlifter Edition RZR that was unstoppable. A heavily modded Jeep CJ Rolling 35’s that was getting stuck CONSTANTLY.
A crew Viking that got swamped right at the end.
A RZR that broke a CV
At the start, I was towards the front
Attachment 24422
Highlifter RZR
Attachment 24423
SPLASH this was deep
Attachment 24424
More mud/water
Attachment 24425
Aaaaand more mud/water
Attachment 24426
Aaaand I should have had many many more….
Break-In Speed Limiter
Was out breaking in the the new 1000 XTP yesterday and ran into a 45mph speed limiter with the black key. Tried they gray key thinking they might have switched them up but same result so I wasn’t sure if this was something they changed in 2015.
If they need to reprogram a new key do I have to bring the whole quad in?
Break-In Speed Limiter
Was out breaking in the the new 1000 XTP yesterday and ran into a 45mph speed limiter with the black key. Tried they gray key thinking they might have switched them up but same result so I wasn’t sure if this was something they changed in 2015.
If they need to reprogram a new key do I have to bring the whole quad in?
EJK and check engine light
Just put a EJK 3.5 on my 2014 outlander 800. On its factory setting it’s causing the check engine light to come on.
Everything seems good but it won’t rev past 6000rpm
