Just joined the community, im 39 and live in British Columbia Canada, love my ’07 Grizzly 700 EPS. Perfect for the high elevation mtn riding up here! Cheers to all!

Anyone know if the after market radiators for the Grizzly 700 are any good? Or should i stick with the more expensive OEM rad? Mine has been damaged, and needs replacing. Thanks peeps!

Is it worth the extra effort to remove the plastics and heat shield and wrap the exhaust behind the heat shield to help with the heat on my leg? I have a 2016 1000 xt and it gets a tad warm on the left side. The right side doesn’t get hot at all. I was planning on putting the reflective dei tape on the inside of the plastics on the left side and at least wrapping the slip on, but was curious if I could justify the extra work of removing all of the exhaust to wrap it.

ok this should be an easy one for anybody that has one of these to answer for me as the cdi box manufacture and brp and the dealer cant seem to answer.

somebody cut the factory cdi plug off of my machine and hard wired a procomp cdi box to it and did a poor job despite using heatshrink. I purchased a new procomp cdi just to make it easy as the machine ran well before I smoked the cdi. I was cutting the wires one at a time and making new splices and ended up accidentally pulling off the colored tails I left on for id purposes. I now have no clue what wires go where.
on to the question

Can someone please look at their machine and tell me the pin location of each of the five factory wires in the factory plug

just to add a bit of value to my post here is the functions of each wire going to the cdi as per canam fsm

rd/vl – 12+
bk/yl – in+
bk – in-
bk/wh – out
bk – GND

which is good info to have but doesn’t help me because after contacting procomp engineers the tell me they dont have wiring diagrams of the products the sell and since they didnt make their wires the same color as can am have no idea how to hard wire the cdi they did say that they may be able to contact china and get a response from the people that made it but that the reply would come back in mandrin and would need translated I said thank try to get it for me that was three days ago and no word yet I have a race this weekend please help if you can

I’m new here just saying hi I am the owner of a 2000 DS650 and Im from PA

Hello All, New to the Forums

I have been scouring the net trying to find someone that has similar issues as to what I am experiencing.

I have a 2002 Magnum 325 2×4. Back story: at the end of the deer season last year, the oil cooler hoses blew off of the bike at the oil cooler. Bike died and we towed it back to camp and did not run it after that. I replaced the hose clamps and did a fresh oil change on the bike.

Present day: The bike starts and idles great. When I put it into high gear the bike will hardly move, it struggles very bad. I can’t even climb up my tilt trailer. I have to put it in low gear just to load it up. There is a terrible belt chatter going on, especially in high gear. I removed the clutch cover and replaced the belt. My old one was dry rotted and close to going anyway. This did not improve the wobble and chattering of the belt. There has always been a little bit of this noise but its worse than ever and I don’t know what needs to happen from here. Is this a primary or secondary clutch issue? Clutch alignment?

I can do basic mechanical types of things and I am trying to avoid taking this thing to the dealer. I may not have a choice but wanted to weigh the options here. Anyone have any ideas or know of this kind of issue before? Thanks in advance.

Hello All, New to the Forums

I have been scouring the net trying to find someone that has similar issues as to what I am experiencing.

I have a 2002 Magnum 325 2×4. Back story: at the end of the deer season last year, the oil cooler hoses blew off of the bike at the oil cooler. Bike died and we towed it back to camp and did not run it after that. I replaced the hose clamps and did a fresh oil change on the bike.

Present day: The bike starts and idles great. When I put it into high gear the bike will hardly move, it struggles very bad. I can’t even climb up my tilt trailer. I have to put it in low gear just to load it up. There is a terrible belt chatter going on, especially in high gear. I removed the clutch cover and replaced the belt. My old one was dry rotted and close to going anyway. This did not improve the wobble and chattering of the belt. There has always been a little bit of this noise but its worse than ever and I don’t know what needs to happen from here. Is this a primary or secondary clutch issue? Clutch alignment?

I can do basic mechanical types of things and I am trying to avoid taking this thing to the dealer. I may not have a choice but wanted to weigh the options here. Anyone have any ideas or know of this kind of issue before? Thanks in advance.

Rancher TRX 350 FM Problems. Newbie here. My problems all began when my wife’s ATV didn’t get rode by her enough ….It started having gas blockage issues . I found the filter in the gas tank completely plugged up with varnish and i replaced it. I now had gas to the carb but still she wasnt right. After cleaning out the carb I got her to start and thought all was well..so I was test driving her and everything seemed fine ,steady idle, good acceleration and power. Then after about 10 miniutes she just quit. She ran fine until warm and then nothing . Would not start again until cold? Same thing starts right up cold and croaks as soon as she is warmed up? Any help would be much appreciated ….

Do atv tyres need to be balanced ? On my original set one wheel had a balance weight on it but none of the others. I just had a set of new tyres put on at my local bike shop and asked them to fit and balance them. The original balance weight is still there but no new weights on any of the wheels. Not to mention one of them is leaking like a sieve because they didnt clean the bead. I just thought on a atv that can do over 100kmh (60mph) the wheels and tyres would need balancing.
Also is there an easy way to break the bead without damaging the tyre ? Ive been trying with the jack pressing down on it under the chassis of my 4wd but no deal. Without the valve in the tyre just collapses and with the valve in it lifts the car.

New starter making a noise when it is engaged but stops after the engine starts, could be this be a problem or should i just ignore it for now.