Found the forums recently during research to work on a Yamaha Bruin 4×4 that won’t idle w/o the choke. Pretty sure it’s got a crudded up carb, so time to get a kit for it and clean it up good. :getrdone:

I’m looking at possibly purchasing one off cragslist, What do I need to know, look at, be aware of.. What should I expect to pay?

Ok just bought my rancher the other day, did not run . Cleaned carberator just to see it run and check engine , all good pretty much but will be getting a carb kit soon. My question is if see a electronic part where what looks to be the choke should go, never seen anything like this on atv. Can someone please identify part

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Ok just bought my rancher the other day, did not run . Cleaned carberator just to see it run and check engine , all good pretty much but will be getting a carb kit soon. My question is if see a electronic part where what looks to be the choke should go, never seen anything like this on atv. Can someone please identify part

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i have a 2005 660 and I’m doing a frame swap and I’ve got just about everything out except engine. I yanked on the front drive shaft coming out of the engine a few times and it didn’t come out easy like the rear one did. How do you remove this shaft?

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In another thread, robval1987 talked about his 2016 Kodiak sucking in water through the gas vent tube because the opening of the vent tube is too low. I think the vent line on my 2016 Grizzly is too low too. I attached a photo of my vent line below.

Here is a link to robval1987’s post: http://www.grizzlycentral.com/forum/…be-issues.html

I guess Yamaha put the opening of the line low to avoid gas exiting the line from hitting anything hot enough to ignite it. That is a legitimate concern but to me it looks way too likely to suck in pond scum. What do you think?

robval1987 rerouted his vent line to near the handlebars. I think I will just shorten mine several inches because I don’t go through deep water.

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Just changed oil for 20 hour break in yesterday. Noticed today that when i come to a stop or start it up, sometimes it idles at 1100-1200 rpm, sometimes it idles just fine at 1400, and other times it idles at 1800-1900 rpm. I know this cuz i installed a tach/hour meter a few weeks ago. Any ideas im thinking idle air control valve.

Just changed oil for 20 hour break in yesterday. Noticed today that when i come to a stop or start it up, sometimes it idles at 1100-1200 rpm, sometimes it idles just fine at 1400, and other times it idles at 1800-1900 rpm. I know this cuz i installed a tach/hour meter a few weeks ago. Any ideas im thinking idle air control valve.

Hello i have a 2000 honda rancher es 350 i have put a new shift motor shift angle sensor ecm key switch and a new rectifier and still now electric shift what i can tell you is with the rectifier unpluged the 30A motor fuse wont blow once i plug in the rectifier the 30A motor fuse blows wtf is causing this issue i have no broken wires and atv only has 1000 hours and seen more shed time than anything can anyone please help

Hello i have a 2000 honda rancher es 350 i have put a new shift motor shift angle sensor ecm key switch and a new rectifier and still now electric shift what i can tell you is with the rectifier unpluged the 30A motor fuse wont blow once i plug in the rectifier the 30A motor fuse blows wtf is causing this issue i have no broken wires and atv only has 1000 hours and seen more shed time than anything can anyone please help