Wrecked the bike during a race. Got flipped back over (wasn’t running, kill switch shut it down), turned it on and the dash worked. Rode a few feet and realized the bars were too bent to get back. Spent some time bending them back, then rode out.
The bike started to miss, or run in limp mode, looked down and the display was off, with only a blinking red light. I’ve never heard of this, only the regular check engine light with the P codes.
What’s the scoop on this issue? Bike seems to start fine…
Okay boys we are set in concrete especially after I’ve reserved my motel room where I can’t back out of reservations. LOL. Would like to know who’s all going so we can coordinate what Trailhead we’re going to meet at and what time.
Clipped a tree with the back tire during a race, going pretty fast. I got bucked and the bike rolled a few times. Bent the bars and stem, and front-right tie rod. Thought no big deal until I noticed the back-left wheel had a full extra degree of positive camber, compared to the back-right. I hit the tree with the back-right wheel too, so seems odd?
I checked the brake rotor with a camber gauge, the back-right is 0.8* positive, the back-left is 2* positive.
I’m not very familiar with this suspension setup. Any advice on what to check? I can’t see anything that’s bent, besides maybe the mounting surface for the brakes. Not sure if it’s the trailing arm, or the frame/mounts?
Anyone have experience with this? Also, who sells stock replacement parts online? I don’t have any dealers close to me.. thanks.
Clipped a tree with the back tire during a race, going pretty fast. I got bucked and the bike rolled a few times. Bent the bars and stem, and front-right tie rod. Thought no big deal until I noticed the back-left wheel had a full extra degree of positive camber, compared to the back-right. I hit the tree with the back-right wheel too, so seems odd?
I checked the brake rotor with a camber gauge, the back-right is 0.8* positive, the back-left is 2* positive.
I’m not very familiar with this suspension setup. Any advice on what to check? I can’t see anything that’s bent, besides maybe the mounting surface for the brakes. Not sure if it’s the trailing arm, or the frame/mounts?
Anyone have experience with this? Also, who sells stock replacement parts online? I don’t have any dealers close to me.. thanks.
I bought my 05 Kodiak 400 with a half ass snorkel job on it so this weekend I decided to redo all the snorkels. It has 1.5" for clutch in and out and a 2" for the airbox. I also decided to replace the carb since the idle screw had been broken off of the original one. After resnorkeling and installing the carb I noticed the bike was running sluggish. I adjusted the idle screw to get it to idle properly and the idle is fine but when you get on the throttle it sputters a bit and acts as it it doesn’t want to fully open up.
What needs to be adjusted? I did some research and discovered that there is a separate air/fuel screw. Could this be fully opened bc the carb was brand new? Could it be the air box getting too much/not enough air?
Well, I finally found a hole my grizz couldnt conquer lol. Was helping friends clear some trails the other day.We got separated and I was going up a familiar trail that must have had a bad washout over the winter. Ditch was over 4′ deep. I hooked up the winch and pulled it up and out and then the fun began. Seems the winch and the ditch were stronger than my tie rod, ball joints, and A-arm.
So it’s time to upgrade a little, possibly. What is the consensus on wheel bearings ? OEM or aftermarket. Figure while I am doing this I should treat this beast to some new bearings all around.
What ball Joints are best ? OEM or ???
Who do you find has the best prices on OEM or aftermarket made in the USA parts ???
I want to buy a cheap Chinese winch for my 2014 Grizzly 450…. It seems I have a bracket for a winch welded into the chassis, is this sufficient or do I need and extra winch bracket?
How does this work, I am confused.
I’ve installed multiple winches on 4×4 so install not an issue.
I’ve been debating for quite sometime about getting one of these tuners, I’ve called vforejohn and he said they are good you may only see 1hp from timing if lucky? So was just seeing if anyone had theirs yet and if they could comment on it?
I currently have no tuner with yosh slip on, No issues at all runs fantastic however just thought I’d play it safe?
I got a set of these Sun F 12 ply runflats, they are nearly 40 pounds EACH! (I weighed them without rim). The size is 26x11x12 (back) and 26x9x12 (front)
Are these ok to run on my Grizzly 450? I need flat proof tires for a specific trip I am doing… What, if any issues could these tires cause? These tires are super tough and will run without any air at all without deforming.
I am only doing 10 miles and hour max on these tires.
Looking at rear boxes. Usually ride solo but usually carry an extra helmet if a friend wants to take the quad out. Would want a box room for ideally 2 helmets.
Looking at:
Plano Rear Mount ATV Box
Around $100, seems to have some quality issues and not sure how I feel about bungees as latches to close it.
Raider ATV-500 Rear ATV Rack Box
Around $100, lots of people complain about the latches and the built in lock.
Any others that I am overlooking? The box does not need to lock, just want it secure and enough room for helmets and some other small things.
