Hey friends. I have a neighbor kid with a Yamaha Warrior 350, and I of course have a new 2016 Honda Rancher 420 4×4 DCT EPS. He and his buddies invite me along to ride from time to time, and he loves to "challenge" me on the Rancher in different ways. So far I’ve bested him at every challenge (could be rider more than machine) but we’re just having a good time. We done a number of drag type races and I’ve noticed the two machines run pretty close, neck-and-neck. On general acceleration it seems they’re evenly matched, but the Warrior obviously has a higher top speed (six gears, sport quad gearing) so if the stretch is shorter I generally win the race, and if it’s longer he’ll pull ahead at the end. Here is a video of some racing from last night: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YbAvPPJBdAY
Who sells full exhaust systems for the new Grizz and Kodiak 700?
From what I have read the cat converter is in the OEM header and is the source of the massive amount of heat on the left rear fender. So I am looking for info on a full exhaust system to eliminate the heat issue. I realize a tuner will be required as well.
I have a 2014 foreman es it has just over 600 miles on it and when you shift the clutch seems to slip and then grab really hard but that is the only time it slips I just changed the oil and adjusted the clutch as per the manual with no change
Hello I am a new member and owner of a 2016 CanAm Defender will be trying it out this weekend in Bunell Fl at Mudmuckers hope to learn a few things about 4 wheeling and have some fun . Great to hook up with some new friends .
Hello I am a new member and owner of a 2016 CanAm Defender will be trying it out this weekend in Bunell Fl at Mudmuckers hope to learn a few things about 4 wheeling and have some fun . Great to hook up with some new friends .
I have actually seen groups of people riding quads and MX bikes around Manhattan. It’s really a crazy sight, but they ride like complete azzholes, no helmets, cutting people off, etc.
But, it still hurts to see machines I’d love to own crushed by a dozer.
I’ll try to keep this not a 5000 word book here.
I just rebuilt the rear brakes on my TRX250EX. Completely disassembled the rear brake panel and all that that encompasses. I had no back brakes and it started with the rear foot pedal being almost seized and that led to tearing it down and much to my surprise it had been wet in the hub and everything was a freakin mess. I mean seized bear race to the hub panel, seized spring clip, seized bearing collar and list goes on. I was sure I was going to break something getting it all apart but I actually pulled that off, A miracle too.
Anyway, after a week of refurbishing everything. New panels bearings, collars, clips, seals and everything but the axle tube bearings (which surprisingly were fine, don’t ask me how).
After getting it all cleaned up, fitted and finished everything works as it should BUT…
I bought new rear brake cables a well, the short foot pedal cable and the right front parking brake/brake cable. Now my issue is, while it works great and all had to spin the adjusters all the way in to get the tension and action what I feel is right. The right front brake lever is super soft and barely brakes at all.
Now, my brain tells me that those adjusters should be almost all the way OUT with new pads and cables. I am positive I lined the marks up on the actuator rod and the brake arm. I am also pretty sure the cables are all installed correctly as the foot brake works great.
Since i rebuilt everything to like new condition I am stumped. I guess I can move the brake arm forward a notch or two ahead of the hash marks or somesuch?
Figured I’d share a little video from this weekend. The Gopro makes the terrain look like a cake walk compared to reality. https://youtu.be/dY6-ZjDJEuo
Looking at the Bighorns 26×9-12 front and 26×12-12 rear on ITP Steel Wheels. Anyone doing a setup like this on a 2016 yet?
I’m really wanting to find out if they rub or is the heavier weight a possible clutch issue? I do a blend of rock climbing and hard trail riding in the Pacific Northwest.
So yesterday I walked into the dealer for trans oil and walked out with some new Protaper CR high bend fattys. (Totally forgot about the oil)
So today, as a test run, I siliconed my old renthal fatbars and stuck some carriage bolts in the end. Worked pretty slick and should dampen the vibes put out by the big ol stroker.
So tomorrow I plan on running to menards and grabbing some that are a bit longer and fatter for the new bars.
Anybody ever do this? I figured what the hell, I’ll try it while the bars are off, it only cost me 5 bucks.
Wont get to test them yet unfortunately, the studs on both bar clamps snapped on me. And I have no fuel. And my new slide plate seal isn’t here yet. I have alot of work to do before the jamboree june 10th.
