So here she is, 2004 Yukon XL, family hauler, Camaro hauler, been my daily driver for the last two years.

I want something that can tow my car with ease, tow other stuff, and generally be usefull. I already have a good tune, efan conversion, and cold air intake.

I figured this conversion may take a while so I bought another daily driver to cover me while the yukon was down.

I figured, I could get a little performance by deleting awd, and by selling the components could offset the price. Once I assembled all the parts, I jacked her up.

First things first we must remove all awd components….this is the non-electronic transfer case. It splits power 70/30 rear/front at all times.

And it weighs about 70lbs.

4wd 4l60e. Looks to be original.

Here’s the stock setup.

So here she is, 2004 Yukon XL, family hauler, Camaro hauler, been my daily driver for the last two years.

I want something that can tow my car with ease, tow other stuff, and generally be usefull. I already have a good tune, efan conversion, and cold air intake.

I figured this conversion may take a while so I bought another daily driver to cover me while the yukon was down.

I figured, I could get a little performance by deleting awd, and by selling the components could offset the price. Once I assembled all the parts, I jacked her up.

First things first we must remove all awd components….this is the non-electronic transfer case. It splits power 70/30 rear/front at all times.

And it weighs about 70lbs.

4wd 4l60e. Looks to be original.

Here’s the stock setup.

hey guys,
Mega Mayhem
27-11-12 all 4 tires are the same.
$400 0B0
Located in Wisconsin.
Text me or PM me 608 Three Three 4 1237

Selling my Mega Mayhem tires. They are a little to aggressive for my riding. They came with the ATV. The ATV only has 350 miles on it, so that is the most the tires can have. The previous guy bought them new.

Not sure what they are worth but start at $400. i think they are about 125 each online. so Save 100 bucks

Not sure what shipping will cost so we can work something out depending on where you are located. I will cover shipping within reason. I live in Wisconsin.

Hey, I just had to remove my primary clutch to remove a stick that got itself jammed between the motor and clutch housing so hard it stalled the quad and would not allow the starter to crank over the motor!!:tools1:Is this a common problem? This is only my second ride on this bike (2013 outlander xmr1000). Does anyone know what the bolt holding the primary on should be torqued too?

Thanks

Ran into this last year, be running fine than all at once it’d die and couldn’t be restarted, absolutely no power anywhere but at battery itself. Then out of the blue you’d start it and it’d run fine, sometimes days/weeks, sometimes an hour..no ryhm or reason.

Last night daughter and friends took all the quads out and later called from other side of Lake saying it died again. By the time I got that way I met them, they’d gotten it going and as I was following problem quad, noticed all the lights would die, then second later come back on.

Today camping I had some time, so dug into main harness under front nose piece. Ran different checks and finally set center console so I could watch gear indicator lights and began wiggling wires one at a time, found the red/white wire that’s tied in with off/run/off switch had a section that if I jiggeled it would shut gear indicator lights off. So cut out that bad 2" section, spliced in a new piece and today all is right with the world finally.

So since I’ve seen this question on google, sorry no pictures:( but:
Remove center console that is on handle bars and holds ignition switch, choke cable, and gear indicator. Just 2 large plastic nuts over the ignition and choke, and 2 torx screws, easy and straight forward. You can unplug gear indicator harness and pull that out and reattach so you can better watch gear indicator lights as you grab wires to track down worn one.

Remove the front plastic cover between front fenders

You will see a big convuluted tubing/wire loom with a bunch of zip ties and plastic clamped to front of frame under handle bar neck. Cut off all zip ties, remove wire loom to expose wires in main harness.

Go ahead and inspect each and every wire for nicks, abrasions, wear/chaff.

If nothing obvious, keep the key in on position so gear indicator is lit up, and now, grab each wire 1 by 1 and watch light. Once you find the bad wire it will turn light off or on as you wiggle it.

Then you can further isolate it by slowly working down the wire little by little to find where the break/wear is at so you know where to cut out to patch in new wire section.

All I had here at campsite was heat shrink butt connectors, but best fix is solder and heat shrink tubing obviously. Maybe I’ll tear into this winter, maybe not. Just the trail whores I don’t care if it gets screwed up by new riders, but I at least want it to run good lol.

I have a 2014 570 SPORTSMAN with 350 miles on it… there is a bridge closed near my hunting place that gives me a long stretch of highway with. No traffic on it. Gave me the perfect opportunity to see what it will top out at. 64mph for me. Anyways, on the return trip it started backfiring and losing speed rapidly. So i let off and it died. Tried restarting it to no avail. I thought I killed it. I decide to take the side panels off and change the spark plug… The spark plug wire had vibrated loose. Reattached and ran just like it was before. WHEW!!!! But I did learn one thing, the spark plug adapter that comes with the kit will not go in the recessed hole because it hits the gas tank. Not easily anyways. So be prepared, take an actual Plug socket and a socket wrench with you.

Anyone ever had a issue with a whining noise in all gears after 10 minutes of riding? Have already changed belt and primary clutch?

Had a stressful week at work, so I was in the mood to get out and ride hard/fast. I have to say my 2016 Rancher 420 4×4 DCT EPS is a blast to ride hard. I’m used to sport quads, and this Rancher doesn’t disappoint me. Here is a video of some full-out trail riding on the new Rancher…
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQwiRq7caac

I’m not a big fan of the always on tail light or the delay after the bike is shut down. For night hunting purposes going in and out of the woods, I’d much prefer to ride with as little light as possible, even with just my head lamp is sufficient. I know it’s a safety feature, but is there a way to get rid of the tail light being on with the ignition and/or getting rid of the delay after the bike is shut off? I considered a switched fuse and this is probably what I’ll go with, but I want to totally black the bike out. Running lights, pod backlight and brake light. Can the dealer reprogram the computer to make the running lights only on with the headlights?

Hello friends. I recently had the opportunity to stay the weekend at a friend’s family ranch/cabin just outside of Mancos Colorado. While there we did a gorgeous trail ride up to Mt Hesperus. To get there we took a myriad of trails and county roads. I did some research to see what we could legally ride and I found an official government document stating that as of recently all county roads in Montezuma county Colorado are open to OHVs. There is a LOT of amazing riding to do up there! One must be 16 or older, have a drivers license, and have the OHV registered either in-state or out-of-state CO OHV permit to operate on the county roads, but that permit is only $25. There are so many opportunities to ride up there, tons of marked trails, and wildlife galore. The government doc stated that the county is actively trying to promote OHV usage in the area to draw in revenue. I highly recommend it! Here is a video of part of our ride:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1xCEB4pK-s

I will be posting more videos of the ride promptly.