Hi all,
Could sure use some help. I purchased a non running 1994 Polaris 300 2×4 W947530. Rebuilt the carb and got it going. Was zipping around the yard no problem and then started fine tune the carb and it started to bog, surge, and bang.
Took apart the carb and recleaned it 2 more times and still have the problem. It will low idle all day with no problem but try to rev it and bog and surge starts up again.
The weird thing is that every once in a while it will rev fine so i will take it for a spin and in 100 yards it bogs down again.
I am out of ideas.
Here’s what I’ve done so far.
Rebuilt and cleaned carb. Float arms parallel per spec. All new parts from kit installed.
New non-ethanol premium gas premixed at 75 to 1
Oil pump works with amsoil intercepter oil (yes i am using more oil than needed just to be safe)
New battery
New starter and bendix
Etc works properly but has been disconnected for trouble shooting
Exhaust port is clear
*New fuel line and fuel filter installed
I HAVE A 2006 350 RANCHER 2 WHEEL DRIVE MANUAL SHIFT. IT WILL NOT START OFF THE BUTTON. I HAVE REPLACED THE SWITCH ON THE HANDLE BARS, THE KEY SWITCH, THE SOLENOID AND I EVEN PUT A NEW BATTERY IN IT. iT WILL RUN LIKE A CHAMP IF I CROSS OVER THE SOLENOID. MY FUSE BOX LOOKS A LITTLE WORSE FOR WORN BUT I HAVE NO BLOWN FUSES AND HAVE GONE OVER THE WHOLE UNIT LOOKING FOR A BROKEN WIRE. DOES ANYONE HAVE A CLUE OR HAVE A REMEDY FOR A SIMPLE FIX.
I HAVE A 2006 350 RANCHER 2 WHEEL DRIVE MANUAL SHIFT. IT WILL NOT START OFF THE BUTTON. I HAVE REPLACED THE SWITCH ON THE HANDLE BARS, THE KEY SWITCH, THE SOLENOID AND I EVEN PUT A NEW BATTERY IN IT. iT WILL RUN LIKE A CHAMP IF I CROSS OVER THE SOLENOID. MY FUSE BOX LOOKS A LITTLE WORSE FOR WORN BUT I HAVE NO BLOWN FUSES AND HAVE GONE OVER THE WHOLE UNIT LOOKING FOR A BROKEN WIRE. DOES ANYONE HAVE A CLUE OR HAVE A REMEDY FOR A SIMPLE FIX.
I am helping a relative with this atv. It will kick start and run good. You can use a screw driver to jump across the soleniod and it will start. I have noticed that the neutral light will only illuminate sometimes. I have not figured out why or if that has anything to do with it. Also sometimes the starter wil not stop. It just contiues to spin after the engine is running. I read the battery cable routing info posted by Shade tree and the cables are correct. The solenoid was replaced with a cheap one from ebay. We tried 2 of these ebay solenoids thinking one of them was faulty but the problem persists. Any thoughts? I was thinking I would put new brushes in the starter, This atv is in really good condition so it is worth the effort to repair.
Finally got to put a few rides on my outlander l I love the suspension have not even adjusted it yet and it’s already great (need to bump the rear up for my big butt) engine is super smooth
I do however hate the dry storage box …it’s a great idea and would be super handy if they did not mount it on top of the muffler I put my truck keys in it tonight and when I got home they were scalding so any electronics in there is a no go which defeats the purpose of a dry box imo. Will need to find a replacement for it which is dissapointing.
I have an issue I think may be starter relay related but not sure. 2005 450 with the 4 wire relay just like the picture in starter relay sticky. Has brand new main wiring harness and handlebar start switch harness. New cdi box. Got everything connected and it started. (Purchased non running). I connected everything up and put some plastic on it. Was going to drive it around the yard and as I started it it ran then acted like it wasn’t getting gas and quit. Everything was dead. Blew ignition fuse. Replaced and blew as soon as key turned on. Check fuse box and when ignition key is on it shows 12 volts from one side of ignition fuse to other side like it has a short. I unplugged every connection on the harness. I even disconnected the cdi box regulator and the wirrs that go into the stator. The key switch the run button and the starter relay are the only three plugs that changes it to no voltage. It acts as if it has a direct short. I can ground the volt meter or touch the other side of the fuse and both have 12 volts showing. When I saw the picture of the starter relay I checked my new one I got from yamaha today and the 2 spades closest to the battery and starter lugs are marked + and -. These 2 spades are direct short according to the multimeter. Are they supposed to be? Is what I am seeing so far the way it’s supposed to be acting? I planned on going to yamaha to test a new one to see if they had same results but wanted to ask fit’s just to get input. Thanks for any help.
New member. Just wanted to say hi..Bought my first Polaris a couple weeks ago..Sportsman 570 eps..Just got my first oil and fluid change done..Happy so far..
New member. Just wanted to say hi..Bought my first Polaris a couple weeks ago..Sportsman 570 eps..Just got my first oil and fluid change done..Happy so far..
I’ve got two wheelers I’m looking at for my uncle one is a 97 and the other is an 01 both grizz 600s just wondering is there’s any differences between the years or any opinions on which one rubs better. Thanks
doug out an old 90 got it running for a few seconds, new gas battery and carb.
now nothing, no starter no power no nothing.
without a wiring diag. and not alot of experience
any suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated
