doug out an old 90 got it running for a few seconds, new gas battery and carb.
now nothing, no starter no power no nothing.
without a wiring diag. and not alot of experience
any suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated
Hey guys, we’re preparing for our first trip to HM trails in July. Going to stay at Buffalo Trail cabins and ride the Pocahontas trails, and I have a couple of questions.
1. How well are the trails marked?
2. Is fuel & food available anywhere on the trail system?
While doing a tear down, to clean out the mud from last year, I discovered that one of the cross bars on my winch has snapped. I’m not sure I’m using the right word for the part but they are they bars that go across to keep the cable in place on the drum. Does anybody know if I can just purchase a replacement bar? The winch works fine so I don’t want to replace the whole thing just because of a broken bar.
Have a question regarding secondary spring "theory" as you will. We know there’s orange, purple, gold, white from epi. Questions is what happens if you over shoot a spring you "need"? Say you only need a orange spring but you end up using a purple or you only need a purple but your using a gold. I know your suppose to match the spring to your belt slipping needs but what happens if you use to much spring force? What are the pros/cons? More backshifting? Does it affect your upshift?keep you in a lower gear (higher revving engine)? Does it affect your top speed? Do you need to use a different weight etc?
Have a question regarding secondary spring "theory" as you will. We know there’s orange, purple, gold, white from epi. Questions is what happens if you over shoot a spring you "need"? Say you only need a orange spring but you end up using a purple or you only need a purple but your using a gold. I know your suppose to match the spring to your belt slipping needs but what happens if you use to much spring force? What are the pros/cons? More backshifting? Does it affect your upshift?keep you in a lower gear (higher revving engine)? Does it affect your top speed? Do you need to use a different weight etc?
I think it would be a good idea for Can Am to put a two cilinder diesel engine on the market,. lots of torque and les fuel consumption, I have the outty max 650 witch still consumes more than my brothers 6 cilinder jaguar witch weighs 1600 kilo’s,..:aniwheeler6:
About a year ago, we unloaded at Ojibwa and road to the Oxbo tavern, it was locked up tighter than a drum.
June 18th we are going to unload again at Ojibwa and ride east to Park Falls.
Have never been east of the trail that goes to the Oxbo tavern.
Looking forward to the Toscobia trail again this year.
I have a 2015 xmr 1000 which has heat and melting issues. My usual riding conditions are slow (5-10 mph) with little mud. My xmr has gotten so hot that the underside of the seat melted and my left rear fender plastic was so hot that I couldn’t touch it. So, I decided to take steps to control the heat by doing one improvement at a time to see what helped the most. The first thing I did was remove my entire exhaust and wrap it with D.E.I. Exhaust wrap. This didn’t help at all. So, I then added a fuel controller (power commander v tuned for stock) and that didn’t help at all. My next step was to removed the stock wrapped exhaust and I replaced it with a full muzzy dual exhaust and added a new tune to the fuel controller from VFORCEJOHN. I also noticed that after installing the muzzy the big heat shield along the left side wouldn’t fit nor would the inner one against the engine. So I left those off but left the rear ones beside the gas tank and rear fender. I realized that the plastics would still melt along the left side IF there wasn’t any additional protection added bc of the removal of the big heat shield. So, I ordered from D.E.I their "shield and tunnel II" heat control material. This stuff protects up to 1750 degrees. I knew from taking temperature reading with a heat gun that the highest temperature that the exhaust registered was around 500 degrees. I added this stuff from d.e.i. to the ENTIRE left side of he plastics. I also added it to hoses besides the exhaust. I also added some to the underside of the black plastics that the seat sits on. (wanted to stop heat from getting to seat and from melting the black plastic that the seat and battery sit on). I also added some of it to the underside of my rear fender bc it was STILL getting too hot to touch even after adding the muzzy and pcv. Adding the shield and tunnel II material has prevented any melting of my plastics and has kept any of the plastic from getting to hot to touch. I cut and left the front part of the big heat shield in order to protect the wiring harness and drain tubes from melting….After doing all this my xmr STILL runs gets hot but it can’t melt anything now. I believe after doing the "fan mod" or adding a "Hayden Fan Control" it will be the final piece to keeping the engine cooler….the D.E.I Shield and Tunnel II stuff is fantastic stuff and I highly recommend it over the heat tape. I believe it offers superior protection but it is more expensive. The amount that I used was two rolls….the following are pictures of the areas that I covered.
I have a question I hope some of you might be able to help with. I have a 2009 Can-Am Outlander 800R EFI XT with fairly low mileage and hours on the clock (recently bought it used). I’ve had it out on the trails a few times now and have had no issues at all. I took it out and started it up yesterday and had no issues until I put it in gear and started pressing the throttle. It made a sound like metal rattling and it was coming from the rear of the machine (sounded like it was near the tow hitch).
It didn’t make this noise when it was idling or when I was revving the engine in neutral. It only did it when I put it in gear (including reverse). I drove it up and down the street a few times and didn’t notice any handling or performance issues. Trying to figure out what it could be.
I know there’s not much here to go on but that was the only way I could describe it. Thanks everyone!
