Tag Archives: Around the Water Cooler

Exhaust heat shield/barrier

Okay, so I acquired a turbo wrap off a turbo of a diesel engine. I want to use it as additional heat shielding on my 570. I thought about simply attaching it to the factory heat shield however I’m not sure how hot the heat shield gets and how much of that heat would transfer through the turbo wrap onto the plastic. Don’t want to melt it. So I guess I could install it under the heat shield. Thought I would see if anyone has any experience with adding additional heat shielding to their 570 exhaust and how they went about it and if it worked. Thanks.

Oh, and yes the turbo wrap will be fine on the exhaust pipe. This came off a turbo that failed on a 16 cylinder diesel engine. Similar to the one in the pic.

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2014 Grizzly 700 EPS Hunter Green – Low Hours + LOTS of extras

2014 Grizzly 700 EPS Hunter Green purchased 1/9/14

30 hours on the clock
NEVER trail ridden (plowed snow on a 100′ asphalt driveway in the winter and putted around the neighborhood during the summer)
NEVER wrecked or otherwise damaged

Additional Accessories, all installed (see my GC Garage: My Garage )

-26×9/11×12 ITP Black Evolution Tires on ITP SS112 Aluminum Black/Machined wheels
-Yamaha HD front bumper
-Rigid Industries 91061 SR2 10" LED Driving Light (not included in sale – its the only accessory I’m keeping)
-Superwinch Terra 35 SR winch (synthetic)
-Warn ProVantage front mount plow kit with 54" tapered blade AND with ProPivot! ($$)
-Yamaha 2" receiver hitch
-Plano 1510-01 Rear Box
-Kolpin Overfenders
-Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST fuse block & 40A relay

That’s nearly $3,400 of documented accessories (I have all receipts).
My OTD price on the ATV itself was $8,679 (purchase agreement in hand)
My total investment in this ATV and accessories is just over $12,000

Asking $8900/OBO for everything (includes the 4 stock Maxxis tires and OEM steel wheels) or $8200/OBO if I put the stock tires/wheels back on and keep the ITP setup (perhaps 10 miles on the stock tires).

Priced to *move* because I want to go to a SxS and I have my eye on one. If you are new here, I’m the guy who lost his leg in the motorcycle accident in 2012. Anyway, I think the SxS is a better choice to accommodate my situation. Otherwise, I would not sell this ATV.

I’ll be putting it on Craigslist after a brief stint here (first).

Located in SW Michigan.

PM me if interested.

Do NOT contact me if you think you’re going to send me a money order or cashiers check for $12,000 and have me send you the difference via Western Union before the sale. I’m a former LEO, so … let’s not play games, OK?

Tool Time (definitions)

Definitions:

DRILL PRESS:
A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching a flat metal bar out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly-stained table you were drying.

WIRE WHEEL:
Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench at the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned guitar calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "Yeowww …"

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL:
Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age.

SKILL SAW:
A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS:
Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.

BELT SANDER:
An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs

HACKSAW:
One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the worse the cut becomes.

VISE-GRIPS:
Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

WELDING GLOVES:
Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH:
Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.

WHITWORTH SOCKETS:
Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16" or 1/2" socket you’ve been searching for, for the last 45 minutes.

TABLE SAW:
A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK:
Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4:
Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.

TWEEZERS:
A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel wires.

E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR:
A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible future use.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST:
A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 1/2" x 24" SCREWDRIVER:
A very large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS:
See hacksaw.

TROUBLE LIGHT:
The home mechanic’s own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate pop up ads appear on a computer screen. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER:
Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER:
A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws.

AIR COMPRESSOR:
A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts which were last over tightened 30 years ago by someone at Ford, and instantly rounds off their heads. Also used to quickly snap off lug nuts.

AIR RATCHET:
A device that smashes your knuckles once a nut or bolt is completely tightened.

PRY BAR:
A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER:
A tool used to make hoses too short.

HAMMER:
Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent to the object we are trying to hit, primarily used to make gaping holes in walls when hanging pictures.

CENTER PUNCH:
A pointy chisel that locates a starting point, for drilling, everywhere but in the center.

MECHANIC’S KNIFE:
Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.