First off, scratches are part of the game and I NEVER shy away from a spot just because I might scratch my plastics up. That said, I do take a lot of pride in the way my machines look and run.
I was going up a wash out, weekend before last, and I bogged down half way up (GD stock tires). Backing down to make another run at it, I slid up against the bank which had plenty of roots and rocks sticking out of it. Yeah, you know what happened next…all the way back down the wash out.
Some of the scratches are pretty deep and I’ll live with it, but some are marks from bare roots and seem to come off with a fingernail, but I’m afraid that will end up leaving more abrasions to the painted surface. Is there anything I can use to clean up the affected area that will maximize the removal of marks with minimal impact to the painted plastics? Has anyone found a paint that matches the Tactical Black Yamaha uses?
I changed the fluids on it this weekend and it made me a bit sad every time I looked at all those marks on the front :icon_ cry:
Good morning, I’ve lurked around here for a bit watching info on certain BRP products of which I have read with lots of interest. I recently joined the Can Am ranks but I come from Arctic Cat of which I have rode since 2006 and accumulated between 13-14000 kms. We love to ride in our family.
Last Friday I purchased my first Can Am, and I’m really pleased with it but I’ve got to get use to the difference in ground clearance. I loved this style of bike since its introduction in 2007 and followed its development since and I’m very proud to own one now. [emoji4]
2015 Renegade XXC 1000! Attachment 27318 Attachment 27319
This thing rips! I think I have whiplash from the excelleration! [emoji41]
Hi guys, I am from the UK and about to do my first race in a baja rally raid this weekend…
Now I have just had my engine rebuilt with carillo rods, cams etc and a load of parts from sparks… including valve springs etc so basically a stage 2 fully built engine.
Also I have a rooster clutch with a sparks non engine braking part and it seems like a sparks clutch weight kit…
Now the thing is because of our style events we have to run 15” wheels and tyres which are quite heavy.. 50lb total combo I think or 22kg… however the tyres are only 27” tall and 8.75” wide so it’s a similar ratio to the standard bighorns
My issue I have is the clutch weighting seems to be wrong and I really need to get some directions to What weight I should add… the rzr is launching really hard but gets to about 35/40 and bounces the limiter and struggles… however… if you feed it in slowly it will reach 65mph gradually…
I believe that I need to add weight to the primary clutch.. .. can anyone suggest what I should add?
I can do a video of the polaris launching and what is happening if it helps..
Here are the weights I have in the box just for reference.. and an image of my 900xp minus the plastics for now!
Hi guys, I am from the UK and about to do my first race in a baja rally raid this weekend…
Now I have just had my engine rebuilt with carillo rods, cams etc and a load of parts from sparks… including valve springs etc so basically a stage 2 fully built engine.
Also I have a rooster clutch with a sparks non engine braking part and it seems like a sparks clutch weight kit…
Now the thing is because of our style events we have to run 15” wheels and tyres which are quite heavy.. 50lb total combo I think or 22kg… however the tyres are only 27” tall and 8.75” wide so it’s a similar ratio to the standard bighorns
My issue I have is the clutch weighting seems to be wrong and I really need to get some directions to What weight I should add… the rzr is launching really hard but gets to about 35/40 and bounces the limiter and struggles… however… if you feed it in slowly it will reach 65mph gradually…
I believe that I need to add weight to the primary clutch.. .. can anyone suggest what I should add?
I can do a video of the polaris launching and what is happening if it helps..
Here are the weights I have in the box just for reference.. and an image of my 900xp minus the plastics for now!
hi all.
on a recent hunting trip in Queensland , Australia. I was forced to cross a gorge using my winch to get me over. I did make the crossing however jerked to a sudden stop and broke my warn winch cable.
is it possible to replace with synthetic rope or stick with original.
if I replace with synthetic what type and size should I get.
this is for my 2010 550 X2.
thanks
700 miles on my 2015 1000 XP and the chain rattle when starting cold motor is bad even after running serveral minutes, I am going to order a Sparks Manual Adjuster, I have not contacted yet, but my question is how to ajust tensioner without not being to tight, also is anyone running Boondocker automatic adjuster, thanks for any imput MADDOGWFO
700 miles on my 2015 1000 XP and the chain rattle when starting cold motor is bad even after running serveral minutes, I am going to order a Sparks Manual Adjuster, I have not contacted yet, but my question is how to ajust tensioner without not being to tight, also is anyone running Boondocker automatic adjuster, thanks for any imput MADDOGWFO
Ok guys got a question. I recently installed a STM rage 3 primary only and #0 inch outback max tires. When I called STM I told him my setup and told him I was mainly mud and trail. Now with these mods my bike pulls hard till about 50 then it slowly climbs to between 60 and 65 and that’s it. Is this normal or do I have a problem? No belt slip or anything
Yamaha Grizzly 700 FI EPS
I have my Grizzly for sale.
It’s a 700 FI (fuel injected) EPS (electric power steering)
A very powerful go anywhere (almost) atv. I have used it this last winter on my hunting syndicate and saved a lot of dragging and back ache.
It’s in really good order as I like to keep my kit good.
Just put a new step on as the original was cracked, changed the oil in the diffs and engine, checked the drive belt and changed the one way bearing.
I have fitted a decent front rack on which holds a carcass tray very well. 2 deer will fit in there with no messing about trying to tie the things on etc. Plus stops all the blood running over the quad. (I could take this off if required and replace with the standard one)
Tyres are nearly new.
Road legal (is registered sorn at the moment)
Has a front winch
Bar to mount gun rack or use as a rest.
4WD is just a push button as is Diff lock (this makes this machine a true 4WD) and it makes a hell of a difference if you do get in some muck or snow.
Power steering is great and stops all that pulling of you’re arms when in 4WD.
A real easy machine to ride.
Auto gears with a high and low range. Great for just going real slow or up steep hills with out the need to be slipping the belt.
Year 2008 with very low hours use.
Has aluminium skid plates underneath so frame has always been protected from bumps.
Has the normal scrapes and scratches you’d expect from use but nothing detrimental.
All I can say is this machine will last a long time and is set up for hauling out deer easily.
I am only selling as it’s on my company books and a new one at the right price is available.
It will come with an invoice and registration docs.
Has spare key.
I will be taking it upto my ground on Thursday in Argyll so could deliver anywhere between Argyll and Rugby on the way back.
I am keeping my trailer as I’ll still need it.
I can of course deliver else where at reasonable cost if required.
Any questions feel free to give me a call. (PM for number).
Price £3650.
ATV is located in Rugby, England.
Yamaha Grizzly 700 FI EPS
I have my Grizzly for sale.
It’s a 700 FI (fuel injected) EPS (electric power steering)
A very powerful go anywhere (almost) atv. I have used it this last winter on my hunting syndicate and saved a lot of dragging and back ache.
It’s in really good order as I like to keep my kit good.
Just put a new step on as the original was cracked, changed the oil in the diffs and engine, checked the drive belt and changed the one way bearing.
I have fitted a decent front rack on which holds a carcass tray very well. 2 deer will fit in there with no messing about trying to tie the things on etc. Plus stops all the blood running over the quad. (I could take this off if required and replace with the standard one)
Tyres are nearly new.
Road legal (is registered sorn at the moment)
Has a front winch
Bar to mount gun rack or use as a rest.
4WD is just a push button as is Diff lock (this makes this machine a true 4WD) and it makes a hell of a difference if you do get in some muck or snow.
Power steering is great and stops all that pulling of you’re arms when in 4WD.
A real easy machine to ride.
Auto gears with a high and low range. Great for just going real slow or up steep hills with out the need to be slipping the belt.
Year 2008 with very low hours use.
Has aluminium skid plates underneath so frame has always been protected from bumps.
Has the normal scrapes and scratches you’d expect from use but nothing detrimental.
All I can say is this machine will last a long time and is set up for hauling out deer easily.
I am only selling as it’s on my company books and a new one at the right price is available.
It will come with an invoice and registration docs.
Has spare key.
I will be taking it upto my ground on Thursday in Argyll so could deliver anywhere between Argyll and Rugby on the way back.
I am keeping my trailer as I’ll still need it.
I can of course deliver else where at reasonable cost if required.
Any questions feel free to give me a call. (PM for number).
Price £3650.
ATV is located in Rugby, England.
