When rolling in 2wd there is a noise coming from right below, maybe slightly behind the passenger compartment, kinda of a metallic rattling noise. If I put the machine in 4wd, the noise goes away, then comes back as soon as I return to 2wd. I’m guessing maybe a junk U-joint or bearing where the shaft connects up, making noise when it rotates freely, but under enough pressure to silence it when being turned mechanically. Any suggestions before I start tearing it apart?
4- dwt bead lock rims 12×7 4×3 offset weight is about 9.5 lbs price is $275 will ship on your dime in livermore ca. All black diablo rims dont have a picture just yet
Hello all. I have my original 1988 2wd. It is in good shape but has been sitting in the shop for many years. One of the rear tires have rotted and the bead is garbage. I would like to get away from the ‘balloon’ style tires / 9" rim altogether.
What size tire / wheel would fit on the rear and still be level? a 12" rim? offset? Tire size?
I don’t ride it much, but I live in Denver CO and there are some nice trails / rocky paths that I would like to explore soon.
I plan to replace the front wheels and tires soon as well. Right now, I need to get the rears figured out as I need to move soon.
Ok, my ignition switch wore out last year on my 2004 (and a half) sportsman 600. I replaced it with knock off and it has melted on me. I was wondering if anyone can help with the actual switching in the ignition. When it melted, it melted the wire harness as well, so I need to cut it off. I was hoping to buy an aftermarket key and switch with a harness and just solder it into the wires on the bike. any info would be great. Not sure what is connecting and when?
W/r – Soloniod
R/bl – circuit breaker
R – Left Handle bar/Acc #1 (??)
R/w – Head lamp pod (??)
Bl – ETC/Awd
Br – Br SS (ground I think)
Ok, my ignition switch wore out last year on my 2004 (and a half) sportsman 600. I replaced it with knock off and it has melted on me. I was wondering if anyone can help with the actual switching in the ignition. When it melted, it melted the wire harness as well, so I need to cut it off. I was hoping to buy an aftermarket key and switch with a harness and just solder it into the wires on the bike. any info would be great. Not sure what is connecting and when?
W/r – Soloniod
R/bl – circuit breaker
R – Left Handle bar/Acc #1 (??)
R/w – Head lamp pod (??)
Bl – ETC/Awd
Br – Br SS (ground I think)
I have a Dynatek DSRP-1 Programmer that I am looking to sell. It is complete as pictured with the cable and USB adapter. I have no use for it now that I am running a Weber turbo swap. Looking for $135 shipped in the lower 48.
I would like to thank rearlightbar.com for standing behind there product. I ordered a rear light bar from them and it had a defective led in it no fault of theirs or mine things happen parts are defective some times. They are sending me a new one out tomorrow. The light bar is super nice slim and light weight and they have great customer service and stand behind there product. Just wanted to take a minute to let other forum members know these guys are great.:clap::clap::clap::clap:
I have a 2001 Trail Boss 325. When I turn on the ignition key, the starter automatically engages and will not disengage. The only way I can get to disengage is to remove battery cable. Can pull start and it cranks, but when I put the battery cable back on battery, starter engages. Help!
