I have the stock tires and wheels/tires off of my bike that I don’t plan on keeping. They have 0 miles on them and include the lugs. What is a reasonable asking price for them? It is the wheels in the pic below.

I have the stock tires and wheels/tires off of my bike that I don’t plan on keeping. They have 0 miles on them and include the lugs. What is a reasonable asking price for them? It is the wheels in the pic below.

I have a 2011 can am outlander 650 max xt. It runs pretty hot and from what I read a fuel controller will help this. I don’t want an exhaust because this is my hunting quad and I want it quiet.

So my question is am I able to just add a fuel controller? If so which is the good one to get?

Thanks!

I have a 2011 can am outlander 650 max xt. It runs pretty hot and from what I read a fuel controller will help this. I don’t want an exhaust because this is my hunting quad and I want it quiet.

So my question is am I able to just add a fuel controller? If so which is the good one to get?

Thanks!

Had a chance this past weekend to race a completely stock 2016 Outlander 1000R with my 2014 Outlander Max 1000 with the mods listed below. The 2016 was carrying nothing but a 350lb rider (according to him), no racks, nothing, not even a water bottle…lol I had a passenger seat, passenger, front and rear cargo w/ a bunch of recovery equipment and tools, 4+ gallons of extra gas + gas rack along with BRP skids and LED light bar. In all it adds up to a total of right around 485lbs sprung. I also have SS212 wheels and 26" HTR tires, which weigh an additional 52.5lbs MORE than the stock XT setup he was running. I verified this when I swapped them out to my current ITP/HTR setup. I don’t know how much more the Max weighs than the standard model, so I ignored that weight difference. Assuming the accepted for every 40lbs of sprung weight added you lose 1HP and for every 7.5lbs of rotational weight added you lose 1HP, I was, on paper, down 10+HP. Add to that the 7HP from the factory ratings from the better flowing heads and bigger TB found on the 2016, I was theoretically down a total of 17HP. Then there’s the aerodynamics/rolling resistance lost from the much larger footprint HTR’s (was only running them at 4psi as well) and the aerodynamics lost from my big aluminum rear truck (36"Lx15"Tx15"W).

Earlier in the day we had a good cat-mouse ride on the trail in which I kept up no problem. I also seemed like I could keep up decent on the straights, which is what led to wanting to straight up drag race.
Anyway, I fulled expected to lose, seeing those 2016’s have more power to begin with and how I was having to move and rotate much more weight. I just wanted to see how bad….lol Only advantage I had was my mods, which I knew couldn’t make up for the 17HP. To my surprise, I lost about the same as what the 2015 did in -THIS- video against the 2016. He jumped out to a 1 length lead almost immediately and by the time we hit 65 he had me by 2-3 lengths. I let off as I was getting pelted by gravel. I ended up breaking a low beam headlight in the process because of the gravel.

Nobody likes losing, but I was somewhat happy with the outcome. I believe if I would have equaled out the weight between us I could have at the least kept up.

I will also say the new clutch on the 2016’s seems to be much better, as he could wheelie from a dig with no issues what-so-ever.

Had a chance this past weekend to race a completely stock 2016 Outlander 1000R with my 2014 Outlander Max 1000 with the mods listed below. The 2016 was carrying nothing but a 350lb rider (according to him), no racks, nothing, not even a water bottle…lol I had a passenger seat, passenger, front and rear cargo w/ a bunch of recovery equipment and tools, 4+ gallons of extra gas + gas rack along with BRP skids and LED light bar. In all it adds up to a total of right around 485lbs sprung. I also have SS212 wheels and 26" HTR tires, which weigh an additional 52.5lbs MORE than the stock XT setup he was running. I verified this when I swapped them out to my current ITP/HTR setup. I don’t know how much more the Max weighs than the standard model, so I ignored that weight difference. Assuming the accepted for every 40lbs of sprung weight added you lose 1HP and for every 7.5lbs of rotational weight added you lose 1HP, I was, on paper, down 10+HP. Add to that the 7HP from the factory ratings from the better flowing heads and bigger TB found on the 2016, I was theoretically down a total of 17HP. Then there’s the aerodynamics/rolling resistance lost from the much larger footprint HTR’s (was only running them at 4psi as well) and the aerodynamics lost from my big aluminum rear truck (36"Lx15"Tx15"W).

Earlier in the day we had a good cat-mouse ride on the trail in which I kept up no problem. I also seemed like I could keep up decent on the straights, which is what led to wanting to straight up drag race.
Anyway, I fulled expected to lose, seeing those 2016’s have more power to begin with and how I was having to move and rotate much more weight. I just wanted to see how bad….lol Only advantage I had was my mods, which I knew couldn’t make up for the 17HP. To my surprise, I lost about the same as what the 2015 did in -THIS- video against the 2016. He jumped out to a 1 length lead almost immediately and by the time we hit 65 he had me by 2-3 lengths. I let off as I was getting pelted by gravel. I ended up breaking a low beam headlight in the process because of the gravel.

Nobody likes losing, but I was somewhat happy with the outcome. I believe if I would have equaled out the weight between us I could have at the least kept up.

I will also say the new clutch on the 2016’s seems to be much better, as he could wheelie from a dig with no issues what-so-ever.

Hey guys,

Just wondering about the spark plugs for these bikes. Has there been a preferred plug over the years?

My buddy needs to change the plug on his 350 and while we’re down at the dealer I’ll get myself a new one and a spare one for my 300.

I checked on the parts list and I have a couple choices:
SPARK PLUG (DPR7EA-9) (NGK)
SPARK PLUG (DPR8EA-9) (NGK)
SPARK PLUG (DPR9EA-9) (NGK)

SPARK PLUG (X22EPR-U9) (DENSO)
SPARK PLUG (X24EPR-U9) (DENSO)
SPARK PLUG (X27EPR-U9) (DENSO)

What’s the difference?
Thanks!

My secondary bolt backed out on my 1000 Outty and recked my clutch cover and spring… Wanna throw a clutch kit on while I have it apart. Anyone have any recommendation what to go with? Bike is all stock, still needs to be very drivable at low speeds just looking for a little more low-mid range without high engagement. My rpm right now is kinda all over the place to and usually 2-300 rpm to low. Is a clutch kit worth it or just stay with stock?

Any help would be great, I have had a full STM 6 setup on it that I had on my Maverick as well but I have had a lot of trouble with them so I took them off cause I need it to be reliable. also didn’t really like how they acted for everyday slow riding and noise made.

I have a friend who has a stock 350 raptor and he seems to think its faster than the 570 lol. That being said I know the 570 isnt a race bike or anything but I know its faster than that bike in AWD or not. I was wondering can I lunch the bike in AWD all the way to top speed? I know some other 4×4 bikes say not to pass a certain speed when the 4×4 is on.

Hi guys,

Found an old 200s in a garage that hasn’t been used in 2 years, we pulled it out and checked the spark and put some new gas in it and eventually it started but didn’t have time to run it properly, the next day it just wouldn’t pull start, the only way I could get it running was by crash starting it down a hill, it runs awesome once it’s going and so I warmed it up but still no pull start, so I went and brought a brand new spark plug and some engine start and sprayed that in the air intake…still no luck…so I pulled the carby off and cleaned the inside out and sprayed cleaner through the jets, after putting it back together boom! It started perfectly twice! But then 4hrs later I tried to start it again and no longer would it start, played around with it for ages pulled it probably 20 times atleast…compression is good, spark is good, air intake seems fine, has plenty of gas, what else could it be??

Thanks for any help