I have a ’14 Outlander 1000 with ~3,700 miles on it. I was looking things over recently and saw some narrow gasket oil seepage areas where the two engine halves are bolted together along the gasket line at the very bottom of the engine. The worst one is at the very rear of the engine at the split right at where the rear driveshaft bearing cover is at where three mating surfaces meet and have to be sealed. None have ever left a drop of oil on the floor or have they even left any signs of oil dripping on the frame or skid plate below them. They are just leaving some damp spots which then attracts dirt on/off along the bottom of the engine following the gasket line and at the rear drive shaft bearing cover. I’m just curious how common this is. Obviously this is not worth pulling the motor and tearing the thing down for.

I have a ’14 Outlander 1000 with ~3,700 miles on it. I was looking things over recently and saw some narrow gasket oil seepage areas where the two engine halves are bolted together along the gasket line at the very bottom of the engine. The worst one is at the very rear of the engine at the split right at where the rear driveshaft bearing cover is at where three mating surfaces meet and have to be sealed. None have ever left a drop of oil on the floor or have they even left any signs of oil dripping on the frame or skid plate below them. They are just leaving some damp spots which then attracts dirt on/off along the bottom of the engine following the gasket line and at the rear drive shaft bearing cover. I’m just curious how common this is. Obviously this is not worth pulling the motor and tearing the thing down for.

I got sick of trying to find ways to completely water and dust proof my other rear bag so I decided to start with a plain aluminum box I found on ebay for $100 shipped. I carpeted the sides and the created a wood floor and dividers and carpeted that. I added 4 bolts to each hinge in addition to the rivots. I then strengthened the top with aluminum angle iron and also strengthened the pin area. I drilled out and removed the rivots for the latch and plaque and silicon-ed around the edges and used bolts to secure them. I also added better weather-stripping. I then added the pockets and water bottle holders from my old one. I tested it out last weekend and it is water and dust proof. It actually sat on the trailer overnight and got poured on. The latch system does have a 3/8" x3/8" hole or so underneath the actual lift up latch lever. What I did there was cut a piece of high density foam and put it under the lever to act as a filter of sorts. When you close it you can hear the air try to escape through it from being air tight. It holds quite a bit, as it is 35.5" long, 15" wide and 15" tall. I can now put helmets inside it as well. I added the stickers I’ve accumulated, figured that was a good spot for them….lol

I have three bolts going through the bottom wood floor, aluminum floor and also into the mounting board, mounting the trunk to the mounting board. I then have an additional 2 bolts going through the bottom wood floor, aluminum floor, mounting board and through the rack on the ATV. Then have 4 more bolts going through the mounting board and ATV rack. So I have a total of 5 bolts bolting the trunk to the mounting board and a total of 6 bolting the mounting board to the ATV, using all OEM holes in the rack. Only way that trunk is coming off is if it tears the whole rack off the ATV.

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Had a chance this past weekend to race a completely stock 2016 Outlander 1000R with my 2014 Outlander Max 1000 with the mods listed below. The 2016 was carrying nothing but a 350lb rider (according to him), no racks, nothing, not even a water bottle…lol I had a passenger seat, passenger, front and rear cargo w/ a bunch of recovery equipment and tools, 4+ gallons of extra gas + gas rack along with BRP skids and LED light bar. In all it adds up to a total of right around 485lbs sprung. I also have SS212 wheels and 26" HTR tires, which weigh an additional 52.5lbs MORE than the stock XT setup he was running. I verified this when I swapped them out to my current ITP/HTR setup. I don’t know how much more the Max weighs than the standard model, so I ignored that weight difference. Assuming the accepted for every 40lbs of sprung weight added you lose 1HP and for every 7.5lbs of rotational weight added you lose 1HP, I was, on paper, down 10+HP. Add to that the 7HP from the factory ratings from the better flowing heads and bigger TB found on the 2016, I was theoretically down a total of 17HP. Then there’s the aerodynamics/rolling resistance lost from the much larger footprint HTR’s (was only running them at 4psi as well) and the aerodynamics lost from my big aluminum rear truck (36"Lx15"Tx15"W).

Earlier in the day we had a good cat-mouse ride on the trail in which I kept up no problem. I also seemed like I could keep up decent on the straights, which is what led to wanting to straight up drag race.
Anyway, I fulled expected to lose, seeing those 2016’s have more power to begin with and how I was having to move and rotate much more weight. I just wanted to see how bad….lol Only advantage I had was my mods, which I knew couldn’t make up for the 17HP. To my surprise, I lost about the same as what the 2015 did in -THIS- video against the 2016. He jumped out to a 1 length lead almost immediately and by the time we hit 65 he had me by 2-3 lengths. I let off as I was getting pelted by gravel. I ended up breaking a low beam headlight in the process because of the gravel.

Nobody likes losing, but I was somewhat happy with the outcome. I believe if I would have equaled out the weight between us I could have at the least kept up.

I will also say the new clutch on the 2016’s seems to be much better, as he could wheelie from a dig with no issues what-so-ever.

Had a chance this past weekend to race a completely stock 2016 Outlander 1000R with my 2014 Outlander Max 1000 with the mods listed below. The 2016 was carrying nothing but a 350lb rider (according to him), no racks, nothing, not even a water bottle…lol I had a passenger seat, passenger, front and rear cargo w/ a bunch of recovery equipment and tools, 4+ gallons of extra gas + gas rack along with BRP skids and LED light bar. In all it adds up to a total of right around 485lbs sprung. I also have SS212 wheels and 26" HTR tires, which weigh an additional 52.5lbs MORE than the stock XT setup he was running. I verified this when I swapped them out to my current ITP/HTR setup. I don’t know how much more the Max weighs than the standard model, so I ignored that weight difference. Assuming the accepted for every 40lbs of sprung weight added you lose 1HP and for every 7.5lbs of rotational weight added you lose 1HP, I was, on paper, down 10+HP. Add to that the 7HP from the factory ratings from the better flowing heads and bigger TB found on the 2016, I was theoretically down a total of 17HP. Then there’s the aerodynamics/rolling resistance lost from the much larger footprint HTR’s (was only running them at 4psi as well) and the aerodynamics lost from my big aluminum rear truck (36"Lx15"Tx15"W).

Earlier in the day we had a good cat-mouse ride on the trail in which I kept up no problem. I also seemed like I could keep up decent on the straights, which is what led to wanting to straight up drag race.
Anyway, I fulled expected to lose, seeing those 2016’s have more power to begin with and how I was having to move and rotate much more weight. I just wanted to see how bad….lol Only advantage I had was my mods, which I knew couldn’t make up for the 17HP. To my surprise, I lost about the same as what the 2015 did in -THIS- video against the 2016. He jumped out to a 1 length lead almost immediately and by the time we hit 65 he had me by 2-3 lengths. I let off as I was getting pelted by gravel. I ended up breaking a low beam headlight in the process because of the gravel.

Nobody likes losing, but I was somewhat happy with the outcome. I believe if I would have equaled out the weight between us I could have at the least kept up.

I will also say the new clutch on the 2016’s seems to be much better, as he could wheelie from a dig with no issues what-so-ever.

It’s been 500+ miles since I last "fixed" my squeak. I used a product called -SLICK- made by -Beaver Research-. It’s a penetrating Teflon gel lube used by many industrial companies to keep rubber from sticking to metal. I got access to it YEARS ago from my dad who got some from work. I decided to give it a try on these bushings and the results have been great. I did disassemble one of the lower half bushings and used the aforementioned product to lubricate the lower bushing. I then just used the supplied "straw" in order to spray the product at the very top of the upper bushing and let gravity feed it into the bushing. I sprayed a liberal amount and then turned the steering all the way one way and let it sit overnight. I then did it again and turned it the other way and let it sit overnight. I now have zero squeaking. Anyway, just thought I’d pass it along for those who do not feel like ripping everything apart just to fix a squeak.

Brisk Silver Racing Spark Plug Online, High Performance Spark Plugs

Has anyone used these plugs and have documented gains, beside "seat of the pants"? I’ve read all the crazy claims and how they will increase fuel economy and HP. I can’t seem to find any believable reviews from independent sources claiming they do anything besides make your wallet lighter. I’ve always been a believer spark plugs don’t do any of that and most of it is all marketing. So, is this just another spark plug gimmick like all the others in the past or do they actually have substantiated claims?

Hi guys, I have a strange favor to ask of all of you who happen to have a Polaris ATV or UTV which was assembled in Mexico. As we all are well aware of, some ATV/UTV’s are assembled here in the US and some in Mexico. I’m having a discussion with a couple people whom seem to think ALL Polaris ATV’s/UTV’s are built in the US and refuse to admit there are some which are assembled in Mexico. The favor I’m asking of all of you is if you could be so kind as to post a photo of your ride and also a photo of where it shows it’s "Made in Mexico". I know there has to be a fair amount of you out there. I believe there are also some engines which were also built in Mexico. I want to show these two that not all of Polaris ATV/UTV’s are assembled in the US.

thanks!
Paul

I’m trying to find the differences between these two Fox shocks. The Podium X RC2.0 is found on the XTP/XXC’s and has more travel than the shock by the same name found on the XMR’s. The Podium RC2 is listed on Fox’s website as being a factory replacement shock for the Outlander and Renegade.

So what’s the difference between the two shocks below? Do they both have the same shock travel? (unlike the Podium X’s found on the XTP/XXC vs XMR).

1.5 PODIUM RC2 | ATV Shocks | FOX

Can Am ATV Fox Performance Shocks 2.0 Podium X RC2 HPG – ATV

Then my next question is the Podium X’s shown above on BRP’s website state they are compatible with the Max. However I can’t find anything which specifically states the Podium RC2’s are compatible with the Max. Doesn’t say it’s not compatible though. I’m pretty confident they will bolt up. Wonder if it’s just assumed they will fit or if there’s a reason why they wouldn’t work……not sprung or valved correctly for the weight of two people maybe…?

Anyway, any insight would be much appreciated!
Paul

I’m looking at putting a few tools together to carry with me along with a spare belt. I remember reading on here a tool which is a "must have" which will help tremendously to remove all the clutch cover bolts without having to remove the foot well. I’m guessing a 1/4" swivel would work but that wasn’t what I remember reading. It was like a combination swivel wrench or something.

Anybody know what this tool is?