New user here, but I have been feeding off the information posted for a couple months now.
I was gifted a 2001 Rubicon from my father-in-law back in June. It had apparently been run out of oil and seized. I accepted the gift (headache) with some hesitation, knowing this was likely going to be a money pit. So now it’s my problem and I’m looking for some advice on whether a rebuild would be feasible, or just bite the bullet and order a 14 hundred dollar engine/trans assembly from eBay.
This last weekend I got the top half torn apart and found several areas for concern.
1) The piston must have seized in the cylinder and the crank didn’t care much about that and ripped the skirt right off.
2) The wrist pin flopped around in the top end long enough to knock off about half of the bottom of the sleeve. I can’t save the jug at this point.
3) Somewhere in this destruction, the connecting rod bent over about 15 degrees about 1-1/2" from the top.
4) There is no sign of the piston impacting the valves, but I can definitely see light through one exhaust valve.
So there is a fair amount of metal floating around the case. Normally, that would not bother me and I would just be careful in replacing all the bearings and seals, and make sure everything was nice and tidy before doing so. But as I am reading, this HondaMatic unit sumps oil from the crank case and uses it as hydraulic fluid. I’m not exactly interested in tearing this thing apart, putting all new parts into it and getting it running only to find out that the debris has found its way into the trans unit.
So my question; Is this engine/tranny/sub-trans junk, or is my risk of rebuilding without major issue minimal?
I have been servicing my quads I just bought (new chain, sprockets, spark plugs) and I ran across this spark plug. It has been leaking oil so I changed the cylinder head gasket. It cleared up mostly but it still smoked. I figured it was left over oil on the manifold. I went to change the plug and found that it was not snug at all. I pulled it out to find this. I am now wondering what the other spark plug looks like :dry:
I have been servicing my quads I just bought (new chain, sprockets, spark plugs) and I ran across this spark plug. It has been leaking oil so I changed the cylinder head gasket. It cleared up mostly but it still smoked. I figured it was left over oil on the manifold. I went to change the plug and found that it was not snug at all. I pulled it out to find this. I am now wondering what the other spark plug looks like :dry:
So I was looking at my tail lights as I was walking up to my Sportsman and I got to thinking about how they may look darker given that my atv is mostly grey and black. So I went up to the part store and purchased some "VHT Night shade" spray. I decided to tape around the part that bulges up to kind of give it an evil look as if it has eyes and this is the result, thoughts?
On the tube style rear axles (Foreman, Rubicon, 350 Rancher etc) we all end up with water in our axle tube on the left side, and a brake drum full of water on the right side. Sometimes we even replace the bearings and seals, and STILL get water in there.
Here’s why.
This is on my 2006 Foreman FM. I replaced the left axle bearing and seal, but STILL had water getting in there.
Note the hub surface on the old hub, vs the hub surface on the new hub. That grooved area is what seals against the new seal. When you get grooves in the hub, it cannot seal up against the new seal you install, so water still gets in.
In the bikes i’ve worked on, a lot of them have grass or other debris wrapped around the hub which not only destoys the seal, but also eventually will groove the hub.
Sooo, if you’re going to do a rear end rebuild, it might not be enough to replace your bearings and seals. Inspect your hubs and if the sealing surface is worn or grooved, you need to replace the hub(s) as well.
On the tube style rear axles (Foreman, Rubicon, 350 Rancher etc) we all end up with water in our axle tube on the left side, and a brake drum full of water on the right side. Sometimes we even replace the bearings and seals, and STILL get water in there.
Here’s why.
This is on my 2006 Foreman FM. I replaced the left axle bearing and seal, but STILL had water getting in there.
Note the hub surface on the old hub, vs the hub surface on the new hub. That grooved area is what seals against the new seal. When you get grooves in the hub, it cannot seal up against the new seal you install, so water still gets in.
In the bikes i’ve worked on, a lot of them have grass or other debris wrapped around the hub which not only destoys the seal, but also eventually will groove the hub.
Sooo, if you’re going to do a rear end rebuild, it might not be enough to replace your bearings and seals. Inspect your hubs and if the sealing surface is worn or grooved, you need to replace the hub(s) as well.
On the tube style rear axles (Foreman, Rubicon, 350 Rancher etc) we all end up with water in our axle tube on the left side, and a brake drum full of water on the right side. Sometimes we even replace the bearings and seals, and STILL get water in there.
Here’s why.
This is on my 2006 Foreman FM. I replaced the left axle bearing and seal, but STILL had water getting in there.
Note the hub surface on the old hub, vs the hub surface on the new hub. That grooved area is what seals against the new seal. When you get grooves in the hub, it cannot seal up against the new seal you install, so water still gets in.
In the bikes i’ve worked on, a lot of them have grass or other debris wrapped around the hub which not only destoys the seal, but also eventually will groove the hub.
Sooo, if you’re going to do a rear end rebuild, it might not be enough to replace your bearings and seals. Inspect your hubs and if the sealing surface is worn or grooved, you need to replace the hub(s) as well.
If I’m in any forward gear goin slow the quad will stop or something locks up. Reverse is ok no issues. But if you gas on it you can make it go forward but with a click noise
