I was having trouble getting my belt off (bad arthritis) so I used John’s method to release the tension by loosening the 15mm nut in the middle of the secondary clutch. I removed the belt with this method and then tried to follow John’s instructions when installing new belt and re-tightening the 15mm nut.
My question is that I now notice approximately 1/8"-1/4" of the drive belt is exposed, above the secondary clutch, when the engine is NOT running. Wish I would have paid closer attention to what it looked like before I took mine off. In the video, it kind of looks like the belt is riding fairly flush with the top edge of the secondary clutch(?).
I just want to make sure that my belt won’t come flying off while riding…..especially with hard deceleration (letting off the throttle). Seems like the belt rides kind of high and has potential to fly off?
Anyone ever notice their drive belt riding that "high" on the secondary clutch?
I’m looking to buy my first sxs and looking at a ’16 Max Xrs. I was wondering about the "stiffer suspension". I will probably do some trail riding and some mild rock climbing and wondered if the suspension could be tuned down for a decent ride or is it going to beat me to death and will it flex enough for some rock climbing? I’m not going to be going real extreme since I wouldn’t want to tear up a $30k toy. Any advice?
1999 sportsman 500. Still runs, but won’t start, lights flicker when driving. Battery seems to test all right (6months old). When revving motor light got really bright, and on even blew.
Hey guys, does anybody have a defender without DPS?
My dad is looking to get one, and non dps will save him about $2000 (canada). My concern is that as he’s getting older, having DPS may not be a bad idea.
How does it drive without DPS? Do you wish you had power steering now that you have tried it out?
Hi all, lemon here from Far north Queensland in Aus. Had lots to do with grizzlys and kodiaks. Just about to pick up my first though. New griz 700, had no blue left so had to get the SE carbon colour. (Oh damn! 😉 .. look forward to gaining and giving some knowledge!
Hi all, lemon here from Far north Queensland in Aus. Had lots to do with grizzlys and kodiaks. Just about to pick up my first though. New griz 700, had no blue left so had to get the SE carbon colour. (Oh damn! 😉 .. look forward to gaining and giving some knowledge!
I just did an all corners wheel bearing change, new brake pads all around, bushings if needed, and the tie rod ends had a little bid of play on the inners so I went ahead and did those as well as the outer ends while I was at it.
Everything was perfect for about 2 weeks and now it’s REALLY hard to turn…
I’ve checked and re-checked everything I recently did and also anything I could think of that would cause such a problem and it all seems to check out as it should individually, but put it all back together put bike back on the ground and wham, back to near impossible to turn…
The steering turns fine in the air but not on the ground so at fist I was figuring it was the alignment, but after checking that MANY times using about 3 different methods it comes out as it should with about 3/16 toe out.
Tie rods ends are acting as they should, cv joints seem fine, suspension all checks out and plenty air in the tires… I’m left wondering if my steering shaft bearing "the lower bearing, not the upper plastic bushing" might be bad and under weight/load is binding…. I’ve tried to find a part # for that damn bearing and can’t find ANYTHING online or by phone…
I’m looking for the plastic skids for a 2012 outlander 400 EFI XT.
Many of the sites I’ve searched only show options for the 500 and up. Even BRP site says for the G1 400 contact local dealer.
What’s available for the 400 and why is it difficult to find?
I’m looking for the plastic skids for a 2012 outlander 400 EFI XT.
Many of the sites I’ve searched only show options for the 500 and up. Even BRP site says for the G1 400 contact local dealer.
What’s available for the 400 and why is it difficult to find?
New user here, but I have been feeding off the information posted for a couple months now.
I was gifted a 2001 Rubicon from my father-in-law back in June. It had apparently been run out of oil and seized. I accepted the gift (headache) with some hesitation, knowing this was likely going to be a money pit. So now it’s my problem and I’m looking for some advice on whether a rebuild would be feasible, or just bite the bullet and order a 14 hundred dollar engine/trans assembly from eBay.
This last weekend I got the top half torn apart and found several areas for concern.
1) The piston must have seized in the cylinder and the crank didn’t care much about that and ripped the skirt right off.
2) The wrist pin flopped around in the top end long enough to knock off about half of the bottom of the sleeve. I can’t save the jug at this point.
3) Somewhere in this destruction, the connecting rod bent over about 15 degrees about 1-1/2" from the top.
4) There is no sign of the piston impacting the valves, but I can definitely see light through one exhaust valve.
So there is a fair amount of metal floating around the case. Normally, that would not bother me and I would just be careful in replacing all the bearings and seals, and make sure everything was nice and tidy before doing so. But as I am reading, this HondaMatic unit sumps oil from the crank case and uses it as hydraulic fluid. I’m not exactly interested in tearing this thing apart, putting all new parts into it and getting it running only to find out that the debris has found its way into the trans unit.
So my question; Is this engine/tranny/sub-trans junk, or is my risk of rebuilding without major issue minimal?
