So after riding this weekend, I washed my bike and piped my cvt cover because I got my belt wet a couple of times during the ride. After opening it up I found it full of dried mud, also the cvt intake was covered in mud and there was also some dirtv in the engine intake pipe(mud and water just sprayed everywhere and worked it’s way into these areas) so I figure it’s time to extend my snorkels. I’d like to know how many of you have done your own snorkel extentions with out ordering a kit and how much of a PITA it was and how it worked in the end. Also if you have a write up and pics that would be great. I’m just getting back into the atv game and would like to do a lot of stuff on my own but could use a little help as well. I’m running a 2015 650 xmr. Thanks in advance guys!
My 2005 700 EFI I purchased in Oct 2005, the original battery finally went dead. I have had it on a tender for 10 years. Ordered a replacement today. I think it lasted way longer than most. I decided to get a dry cell, maintenance free.
Hey guys, hope this is the right thread for this. I’m planning on snorkeling my 05 Honda Rancher. And was wondering what the basics to snorkel the atv. Also if anyone has pictures of their snorkels, blueprints, and tips on how to test them out. Thanks guys
I have a 2008 Sportsman 500 EFI and have a trouble code of 47. IAC open or shorted to ground. I checked the ohms on the pins of the IAC as per the service manual and all checked ok. I checked the voltage on wires 2 and 5 on the connector and had battery voltage. I checked for continuity on the remaining wires from the connector to the ECU pins and was good. I checked to see if there was continuity between the ECU harness and ground and got nothing. I then replaced the the IAC motor and still get the code 47 and the atv will not idle. What is the next thing I need to try to fix this issue?
Hey guys, hope this is the right thread for this. I’m planning on snorkeling my 05 Honda Rancher. And was wondering what the basics to snorkel the atv. Also if anyone has pictures of their snorkels, blueprints, and tips on how to test them out. Thanks guys
I am working on a buddys 99 Yamaha Big Bear. He was having problems with the neutral light not coming on or only coming on when he flipped the shifter around for a while. I checked the switch to ground, 1.2 megohms. Shorted out the wire and the light worked good. So I removed the clutch and replaced the switch.
I was able to get the light to come on once and that is it. Reverse light is working fine. Resistance is open on the neutral circuit. If I ground out the circuit the light works and it starts.
So here is my question, was I supposed to index the switch when I put it in? Do the detent(piece that makes the switch) have to be replaced? I checked it to ground when I had it open and it was<2 ohms.
I don’t want to take it back apart but maybe that is what needs to happen. Hate to waste a $50 switch….. I know I can just bypass it but it is not my machine.
I got a brand new (.2 miles) rancher. I filled it up with gas and trailered it home. I have fuel leaking from the frame rail underneath. Looks like the hose connects to frame up high and it drains through frame out the bottom. Did I just overfill it or what? First tank of gas…..
Hi all.
I am getting a 2010 Polaris 550 eps xp. I will be buying tires for it but do not want to buy spacers. (to save a bit of money) The wheels are the factory 14"
I am looking at swamplites, mega meyhams and zillas in either 27" or 28" sizes
Would I have any problems with any of these?
Also I mostly ride Northern Saskatchewan where it is mostly dry trails and logs but sometimes I need to cross a few pretty snarly mudholes to get where I’m going. Since I do not want to get stuck 15 miles from the next human being I want a tire that really performs well in the mud. (the mudlites on my current machine are not that great). Are the above choices good for this or should I also be considering something else.
Thanks