I just got my first atv for free from a friend. It hasn’t ran for a year. I had it running on half choke for a few days so decided to take it down my land. Got to the bottom and magically any power would kill it. Wonderful. Managed to get it back up the hill with my truck. So I bought a new carb and a starter (have to smack it to get it to turn over 75% of the time)

Anyway, I’m wanting some more low end and mid range power. I did ride this atv before it sat for a year and was running right and thought it needed some more grunt.

I’ve searched and decided the FO-4 muffler would be a good add on for power everywhere on the power band. I’m wondering, what cams are available? I saw the 88 but it is only top end power. I’m not looking to go fast on trails, and I don’t really want to take it mudding that much. If I do get in mud it’s no more than 2-3 inches deep (just the way my land is).

An additional question would be, if I just wen’t with the muffler and a k&n filter, what jet size would i need to run? No one has seemed to put this information out there. I saw #168 but wasn’t sure of all his mods. I’m new to carbs and watched a 30 minute video about how to take this carb apart and clean it, put it back together and tune it while idling. That’s the extent of my knowledge.

Thanks :yeahbaby01:

I just got my first atv for free from a friend. It hasn’t ran for a year. I had it running on half choke for a few days so decided to take it down my land. Got to the bottom and magically any power would kill it. Wonderful. Managed to get it back up the hill with my truck. So I bought a new carb and a starter (have to smack it to get it to turn over 75% of the time)

Anyway, I’m wanting some more low end and mid range power. I did ride this atv before it sat for a year and was running right and thought it needed some more grunt.

I’ve searched and decided the FO-4 muffler would be a good add on for power everywhere on the power band. I’m wondering, what cams are available? I saw the 88 but it is only top end power. I’m not looking to go fast on trails, and I don’t really want to take it mudding that much. If I do get in mud it’s no more than 2-3 inches deep (just the way my land is).

An additional question would be, if I just wen’t with the muffler and a k&n filter, what jet size would i need to run? No one has seemed to put this information out there. I saw #168 but wasn’t sure of all his mods. I’m new to carbs and watched a 30 minute video about how to take this carb apart and clean it, put it back together and tune it while idling. That’s the extent of my knowledge.

Thanks :yeahbaby01:

I bought the base model (no DPS) with The convenience package. Its $500 more and gives you the tool box on the dash and the unlockable rear diff so i can turn on turf mode. $12,700 OTD.

Attachment 44505

I added a few goodies.
Winch, very easy to install, all plug and play and just a few bolts.

Roof
Windshield
Rear window
3 way mode switch
And i swapped out stock 25" stock tires.
I put on ITP Mud Lite XTR.

Attachment 44513

So the first thing i did was put it to work.
Im working on a future riding arena for my wife. Attachment 44481

Attachment 44489
Attachment 44497

I will have to say, this thing pulls like a tractor.

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Will the rear end from an 86 2wd honda trx 300 swap out with a 89 4wd honda trx 300?

I worked on a friends 2007 TRX500FM7 yesterday , the bike is super clean and only has 240 miles , was garage kept , BUT , it sat for 3 years with fuel in it , what a mess , the float valve was so jammed in the seat that I thought I wasn’t going to get it out , it took needle nose vise grips and a lot of pulling , the petcock was so clogged up no fuel was going thru it and you can’t turn the knob , I found a screen inside the fuel hose right at the carb (there is a pic of it ) , it doesn’t show up in the parts print , take a look at the fuel that came out the tank in a clean 5 gallon bucket ——–

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Hello, new to the forum. Just picked up this ATV and looking to have it run a little stronger. I’ve been reading several threads here on this issue but I haven’t found exactly what I’m looking for?
I’m installing a K&N air filter and want to bump up the jets to maximize performance. I noticed that without an air filter and cover, it bogs under full throttle. Can someone recommend the max jet sizes to accommodate the (hopeful) increase in air with the K&N? I wasn’t planning on changing the exhaust (I’ve been reading that some here say performance is negligible?), however, if someone has a noticeable performance increase package; air, jets, exhaust, – I’d love to get that info.
Thanks in advance!

BL

Trying to make plans for your next Club ride…. seems like May 15th is a good date, I have started a poll on here of different places we can go and would like to hear your opinion on where you’d like to ride next month. Please vote

so I just picked up a 2012 800efi went to start it and click and all power out wiggled red battery wire and power back on and it starts fine once its running no issues. acts like a weak battery but its not that thing cranks over with ease after you mess with cable. just wondering if those solenoids go bad often I checked connections all seem tight I messed with it a bunch of times and it now starts fine but very suspicious of that solenoid. I am gonna clean all contacts and see what happens. Just wanted to know if those solenoids go out a lot.

Never been much of an internal combustion mechanic, though I’ve always been somewhat handy with my wings, Just not a fan of working on vehicles…that said, I recently had my ’03 Polaris in the shop for a very expensive radiator cap and mechanical seal, I thought I needed a head gasket, and didn’t want to touch that job…Was aware my battery wasn’t charging, I’d just put it on the charger every other time I used it( already replaced battery). No biggie, I’m not a trail rider (yet), bought it to plow my driveway after bypass surgery—shoveling wasn’t an option. Anyway, they told me I needed a stator, and quoted $750-ish, on top of the over-priced radiator cap. Irritating, to say the least. And so I went to the inter-web, and found this place. Downloaded a service manual, made a few checks. I didn’t need a stator, I needed a voltage regulator. $18.88 on Amazon, plus tax- no shipping, because I also ordered brake parts for my lady’s car. A bit of frustration dealing with 13 year old bolts and screws that were quite content where they were, and preferred breaking off, rather than unscrewing. After 3 or 4 of those, I got tired of drilling out the broken ones, and got out my MAPP gas torch. What a great help that was! Anyway, she’s back together with some new hardware, and I’m well pleased with saving $730. Not so very happy with the dealer, though–but, they’re likely to see a lot less of me, now. Thanks, polarisatvforums!

easiest way to do an alignment on an atv:

place the quad on level ground and break all 4 tie rod adjusting nuts loose. the rods must NOT have any bends in them or endplay in the ends, replace as necessary. also make sure the steering stem nut is fully tightened, this will allow the collar that holds the inner tie rod ends to wobble throwing your steering adjustment off and cause front end shaking.

take a string and tie it to the front bumper TEMPORARILY. take said string and run it around the center (across the axle nut section) of all four tires and tie the string as tight as possible to itself.

take 2 straps and run from your handlebar grips to your back rack (or rear bumper on sport quads). take a tape measure and measure from the back rack or rear bumper to the handlebar end caps, make this measurement even (example 32" on both sides) and make sure the straps are SNUG, NOT TIGHT. tight straps will bend the handlebars throwing your measurements off. your handlebars are now completely straight as compared to the frame, this can only be done if your rear rack/rear bumper is not bent or otherwise compromised. on units with a center headlight (newer TRX500 owners pay attention do not line up your handlebars with the headlamp, do it with a tape measure. the headlamp points to the right slightly from the factory with the bars straight.

now pay attention to the string as the backside of the front tires and the front side of the rear tires contact the string. screw your tie rods in or out to achieve an even setting. if your rear tires are wider than the front, you want the string to touch the front of the rear tires and approximately 1/8th inch gap between the string and the backside of the rear tire. this will give you a slight toe out if you go further than this. if you screw the tie rod the other way and the backside of the front tire contacts the string but the front of the rear tire has a gap, you are toed in. use the gaps (or lack thereof) as a way to make sure the left and right tires are toed in or out evenly and properly. when the desired result is achieved, check your handlebar measurements and make sure they did not move. if they are correct, tighten the lock nuts and remove the straps and test ride.

if you want your tires completely straight and set it with no gap on either tire, after adjusting the tie rods put the bike in REVERSE and tap the throttle in gear. the bike should roll backwards approximately 15 feet without steering the handlebars. if it pulls to one side that side is toed in, screw it in to pull the front of the tire out more.

remember, toe in is better for straightline stability at speed with less steering ability, toe out is less straight line stability but increased turning ability (most 4wd vehicles are slightly toed out from the factory for this reason.)

this method will NOT work on machines with uneven wheels spacers, uneven tracks (front end wider than the rear axle) or mixed rims with different offsets. it WILL work with factory rims and tires or overside wheels and tires FOR THAT APPLICATION (i.e. solid axle rear tires and rims wider than the front, the track or front and rear width is the even/same measurement.) can you return your machine to stock spacing and rims, set the steering and reinstall the spacers etc.? yes you can, however understand the other changes you just make will also affect your handling.