Well, my 18 yr old son got stuck in some snow/slush while ‘bou hunting and made the mistake of trying to lift front up by the rack extenders.
Found some master lock lock hinges #703D that looks like a close fit. Had to cut some off the end to make it proper fit(as seen in pics). Am happy as it will swing open and close again and do not have to always find the right spot for it to sit, then latch lid at the back and bungie chord the front close.
It isn’t perfect as it will not hold open position on its own but am happy with that as I rarely have to leave lid open, mainly just open,grab,then close.
For the screws for lid to the hinge |I just used self tapping screws and the hinge to mount I just went with the one stock screw that holds on the bracket. Seems more then sturdy enough.
I bought a 2003 Honda Rancher 2×4 350
The guy has a 1" (I think) lift kit on there with 26" tires. To me, it doesn’t run as well as, say a smaller 250 I have with smaller tires. I understand that bigger tires impede performance somewhat, so my question is – with the lift kit on there, can I go back down in tire size – like to a 24"? Also, what do I need to think about from a width of tire perspective?
Hey guys, I posted about this same 400EX ealier with a loud tick. Not the "smooth tick" they all have.. it was LOUD!
Anyways, Put a new cam in and upgraded to CRF450X timing chain, and come other little things. Fixed the tick 🙂
Got it all back together went to take off and ride and it will not rev past 3/4 throttle. Ran fine before I fixed the tick. It starts spitting and sputtering..
Usually when the carb needs jetting, when it gets to that part of throttle percentage, it will act like its dying, jerking, hoping, etc. This isnt that case, It literally sounds like the Over rev kicks in. So its a smooth spit/sputter. Once again, it ran 100% before i ever started working on it. Went ahead and bumped the main up to a 170. No change.
440 Kit
K&N Filter
No lid
Alabama 400 – 800 ft
So 170 should be more than enough.. Still didnt work:dry::dry:
The choke is NOT on.. (learned that about 8 years ago lol. Cleaned carb about 4 times and still wouldnt rev past 1/4 throttle. Felt like an idiot)
I dont think it is the timing though.. It starts easily and runs great until 3/4 throttle. If it was the timing, it would act up as soon as i started revving the throttle..?
I have a lot of experience with the 400EX engine.. A LOT.
But i guess there is that 1 in 50 chance it may be one tooth off? But i highly doubt it. lol
I will get my timing light out tonight and verify for sure.
In the mean time, anything else i should check?
hey Kent or other moderators. I realy like my Rincon and that’s why I have
a spare. I have been thinking, would it be possible to set up list or something
that would list the mileage and failers in the rincons. I,m not talking about abuse and submarine failers. eg, oil pump chain falling of. I would like to change it before I have to walk home someday. u get the drift.
lrp
Check engine power steering light coming on when I go in floorboard Deepwater they stay on for about 10 seconds and go out doesn’t matter if I’m still in the water or not. The The dealer replaced the speed sensor and it still does it. I have but dialectic grease in all electrical connections and liquid black tape around wires for speed sensor. The codes are for the speed sensor. Anyone eles have this problem? Any ideas
Hi,
I am not anything close to an ATV mechanic. I use mine for hunting and some riding with the kids. I bought a used 2003 2×4 Rancher and the exhaust needs replacing – it is rattling, backfiring some. Can you give me an idea on what a good, inexpensive, quite(er) option would be that would be relatively simple to put on? I see a lot of options while searching, but I really don’t need a $300 chrome beast. A good parts link would be great as well for future orders. Thanks in advance for any help!
Not sure if this belongs in a different thread or not???
I have a pretty serious oil consumption problem on my 07 650 Max after partial rebuild. 2700 miles, problem started with timing chains and guide problems, engine starved on oil and toasted rod bearings. Crank mic’d out ok for standard rods and mains…purchased new rods from mrrpm, installed new main bearings, installed updated timing chains and all the guides, reassembled with new case gaskets, new head gaskets, new valve cover gaskets, etc. Machine runs great, plenty of power, etc. but it consumed a quart of oil in the course of 80 miles of trail riding. …did a little troubleshooting….I determined the burning of oil is coming from the rear cylinder by removing muffler and watching the exhaust at each pipe…see little puffs coming from rear exhaust outlet only…
I know when I reassembled, I could not remember which way the arrows are supposed to point with the pistons…they looked identical either way, so I just put it together so both piston’s arrow faces forward. Is this my issue? I think each are supposed to point towards exhaust???? only other thing I can think of is maybe bad valve seals (I have them leftover from gasket kit but didn’t install them)…There is not any oil blow by in the air filter box, no external leaks, compression test shows 165lb on front cylinder and 175lb on rear cylinder. both spark plugs look nice and tan but tail pipe is showing evidence that exhaust is burning oil. My other 07 machine has over 7800 miles and does not use oil so I did not replace the rings when I went through this motor. Do you guys think I should just try replacing the valve guides 1st and see how it goes??? or do I bite the bullet and pull the heads off again, install new rings, maybe change direction of piston on rear cylinder????……maybe time for a mrrpm big bore kit?? =) sorry for the long post
After a too high of a jump on a sandy trail I came to a sudden stop when I hit a tree :icon_ cry:
Fortunately I was able to walk away from it with nothing but a bruised ego ( and a few real bruises). On the other hand the bike got a few cracked panels and the bumper is bent along with the lower A-arm. Most important damage is a bent frame right behind the lower A-arm mount.
What would be the best way to fix this? Replacing it seems to be the right way to me but I don’t know what a frame replacement would involve and I have a lot of questions. Can I do it myself or I need special tools so a shop needs to be involved? Since the VIN number is on the frame , do I need to change the title? Is the warranty still honored? Any input greatly appreciated!
Hey guys quick question, I just rebuilt the top-end on a 2001 Honda Recon 250 for a friend and was wondering why everything looked so dry during the rebuild and then again after pulling the valve cover back off? So a little background, this guy left his quad at a relatives house who let their kid ride it.. Well when he went to ride it himself it lasted for about an hour, shut off and wouldn’t start again. After troubleshooting I realized his top end needed a rebuild or at least a set of rings because he had no compression. I tore it down and it looked like the kid never left first gear and floored it the entire time he rode it, his rings were completely worn flush with the piston and the piston was smeared over the rings in some places. Luckily I got away with only having to hone the cylinder, but of course replaced piston, rings, and gaskets. Rebuild went great it has plenty of compression and will fire up first pull every time but after only minutes of idling the head starts smoking. I want to say that this is just the typical smoke you would get from surface oil burning off the motor,but seems a little too consistent, so I have killed the motor both times it has done this to keep from ruining the fresh top end. Here’s my biggest concern, when I pull the valve cover off just to see if the oil is flowing properly, there is absolutely no traces of oil anywhere, it is as dry as it was when I put it back together. I was wondering if I’m wrong thinking that oil is supposed to circulate to the top of the motor and lubricate the valves, rocker arms, etc? Does the very top of this motor stay dry by chance? Keep in mind I have only had the quad idling I have not attempted to break it in and wont until I make sure the oil pump hasn’t gone bad or that maybe an oil port has been clogged.
