Tag Archives: Around the Water Cooler

2003 TE ES Shift Issues – Many parts replaced!

Good morning, I’m new here, made my intro post to get to know the forum, and now I’m in need of assistance, please.

I’m well aware after researching the ES system on my 2003 TRX350TE (many Google links point back to these forums :)) of the many headaches that can be created when it quits working. I’ll run down the details when I purchased it three weeks ago:

The ES system did not work
The upshift button was sticky
There was no speedometer reading other than "0"
The odometer didn’t increase
The clock does not display
The gear selection display showed nothing (blank; no N, —, number)
The hourmeter DOES work
The low oil and neutral indicator lights DO work
The trans can be shifted using the emergency shaft w/ tool

Last week I dropped it off with a friend of mine that works on ATVs on the side and threw a bunch of parts at him to replace, including the following:

Speedometer Sensor – Replaced with brand new, factory Honda
Angle Sensor – Replaced with brand new, factory Honda
Handlebar Switch Assembly – Replaced with brand new, factory Honda

At this point, he called me and said the ES system now worked! However, the cluster still displayed "0" for speed at all times, the odometer still would not increase, and the gear selector area was blank (No gear number, N, —, nothing). I figured maybe a bad cluster, so I’d GPS it for awhile and the hourmeter still worked.

An hour later, I arrived to pick my quad up, and took it down the street for the first time using the ES system. 1st, 2nd, 3rd, then nothing. It quit electronically shifting. I came back in 3rd gear, and we started looking over everything. All plugs were intact to the sensors, nothing had come loose. However, the ES system would not shift any further, and I could NOT get the diagnostics to work (holding the up/down shift buttons while turning on the ignition, then letting go and hitting them both again), and the gear selection display was still blank.

At this point, it gets weird. If the speedometer sensor is unplugged from the harness, the gear selection area now displays "N", but will not still display a gear or "R". Plug it in, the display disappears. This does it with the old sensor as well.

So, if you’re still here, I’m thinking one of two or possibly both things.

1) Shift motor is stuck, gunked up, etc. Possibly clean or just spend $30 and replace it outright.

2) I see the TE and FE have a "Shift ECU" at the rear of the quad. I’m wondering if it’s crapped out and needs replaced, at the not-so-cheap price of $170?

However, the gear selection "N" appearing and disappearing when the speedometer sensor is unplugged is still bugging me, as well as the inability to perform the diagnostic mode.

Thoughts? Thanks everyone!

New to ATVs, Ohio here

Good morning! After being around for 39 years, I finally ditched the city life for the country and in process, purchased a quad.

It took almost a month to find something I wanted, having a title was a must since I live about a 1/2 hour from Wayne National Forest and plan on riding there. I recently purchased a 2003 Honda Rancher TRX350TE ES that needed minimal brake work and ES work, but otherwise runs and drives fantastic, for a great price.

Thanks!

New to ATVs, Ohio here

Good morning! After being around for 39 years, I finally ditched the city life for the country and in process, purchased a quad.

It took almost a month to find something I wanted, having a title was a must since I live about a 1/2 hour from Wayne National Forest and plan on riding there. I recently purchased a 2003 Honda Rancher TRX350TE ES that needed minimal brake work and ES work, but otherwise runs and drives fantastic, for a great price.

Thanks!

2015 Sportsman 1000 reverse chain

A few weeks ago I posted a thread about some issues that I was having where my bike wouldn’t go in reverse. After sitting at the dealer for 3 weeks the verdict is in. My reverse chain broke and punctured a hole through my transmission. My 1000 has 25 miles on it and Polaris is saying that it’s not a warranty issue. Labor and parts…..$2400 to get it fixed. Unreal.

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2006 outlander 400 Max runs great then Just Dies

I have a outlander when running runs great but then will die. it may be idling or 12 to 22 miles in a ride. No rhyme or reason. I’m over 1000 in to repairs from the shop they have changed the fuel filters, petcock, Carburetor, and fuel pump. it still does it. when it dies it will start sometimes choked but only for a few seconds. if you leave it 2 hours or so or trailer it home it will run again. Odd

What I have done is tried the coil I pulled it out and ohm checked it and primary coil was .3 ohms. Book calls for .8-1.2 ohms at 68 degrees. I bought a new one and the new one came at .3 ohms to new from the factory. Arrrrrr

I did my own test and used a heat gun on it and the old coil and it starts at .3 and as it warms up it goes to Zero ohms… the new one starts at .3 and as i heated it up it got to 1.0 ohms…. seems odd its not in book specks but hope by changing this coil it corrects the issue.,. I know it going to zero is not good but who knows I will let you know if I get it fixed. if you have other ideas or have seen this any info would be a help.

2006 outlander 400 Max runs great then Just Dies

I have a outlander when running runs great but then will die. it may be idling or 12 to 22 miles in a ride. No rhyme or reason. I’m over 1000 in to repairs from the shop they have changed the fuel filters, petcock, Carburetor, and fuel pump. it still does it. when it dies it will start sometimes choked but only for a few seconds. if you leave it 2 hours or so or trailer it home it will run again. Odd

What I have done is tried the coil I pulled it out and ohm checked it and primary coil was .3 ohms. Book calls for .8-1.2 ohms at 68 degrees. I bought a new one and the new one came at .3 ohms to new from the factory. Arrrrrr

I did my own test and used a heat gun on it and the old coil and it starts at .3 and as it warms up it goes to Zero ohms… the new one starts at .3 and as i heated it up it got to 1.0 ohms…. seems odd its not in book specks but hope by changing this coil it corrects the issue.,. I know it going to zero is not good but who knows I will let you know if I get it fixed. if you have other ideas or have seen this any info would be a help.

2006 outlander 400 Max runs great then Just Dies

I have a outlander when running runs great but then will die. it may be idling or 12 to 22 miles in a ride. No rhyme or reason. I’m over 1000 in to repairs from the shop they have changed the fuel filters, petcock, Carburetor, and fuel pump. it still does it. when it dies it will start sometimes choked but only for a few seconds. if you leave it 2 hours or so or trailer it home it will run again. Odd

What I have done is tried the coil I pulled it out and ohm checked it and primary coil was .3 ohms. Book calls for .8-1.2 ohms at 68 degrees. I bought a new one and the new one came at .3 ohms to new from the factory. Arrrrrr

I did my own test and used a heat gun on it and the old coil and it starts at .3 and as it warms up it goes to Zero ohms… the new one starts at .3 and as i heated it up it got to 1.0 ohms…. seems odd its not in book specks but hope by changing this coil it corrects the issue.,. I know it going to zero is not good but who knows I will let you know if I get it fixed. if you have other ideas or have seen this any info would be a help.

Radiator Fan failure

Hey everyone, I was using my 2014 outlander max 800 to jump start my grizzly last weekend. When we started to ride, I saw the check engine light flashing and it said limp home/ overheat. I just cleaned the radiator really good just now and noticed I can’t spin the fan by hand, like it’s stuck. That’s not normal is it?

Is the relay to test the fan the top left one in the fuse box? My label faded away. I started her up and let it run for awhile, but the overheat message never came back on. I don’t really wanna chance it if the fan failed.

Thanks everyone!

Radiator Fan failure

Hey everyone, I was using my 2014 outlander max 800 to jump start my grizzly last weekend. When we started to ride, I saw the check engine light flashing and it said limp home/ overheat. I just cleaned the radiator really good just now and noticed I can’t spin the fan by hand, like it’s stuck. That’s not normal is it?

Is the relay to test the fan the top left one in the fuse box? My label faded away. I started her up and let it run for awhile, but the overheat message never came back on. I don’t really wanna chance it if the fan failed.

Thanks everyone!

Radiator Fan failure

Hey everyone, I was using my 2014 outlander max 800 to jump start my grizzly last weekend. When we started to ride, I saw the check engine light flashing and it said limp home/ overheat. I just cleaned the radiator really good just now and noticed I can’t spin the fan by hand, like it’s stuck. That’s not normal is it?

Is the relay to test the fan the top left one in the fuse box? My label faded away. I started her up and let it run for awhile, but the overheat message never came back on. I don’t really wanna chance it if the fan failed.

Thanks everyone!