After so much trouble bleeding brakes I would like to share how easy it is. You will need 3 pair of vise grips, and a wrench for your bleeder. First off adjust brakes in the drum. Second clamp off close to your master cylinder and squeeze a few times to make sure your master cylinder is still good. If you have pressure, move down the brake line and clamp off before the T, then release the first clamp next to reservoir. Now you have two clamps left. Clamp the line on the right side and the left side next close to the T. Now go ahead and pump. Make sure to pump them slow. It should stiffin pretty quick. This will get most of the air out of the main line. Take the clamp off the main line and move next to the right drum on the line. Give it a pump. It should still be stiff. If so take the left clamp off. Now you will get a little spongy. Pump up til stiff, hold, and release the air through left bleeder. Keep an eye on your fluid so you don’t run it dry. Make sure to tighten back before letting off brake. Repeat until brakes are holding tight. Now clamp back at the T on left side and remove clamp at T on right side. Pump til stiff then remove the clamp on right side next to drum. More than likely back to spongy. Pump them up until stiff, bleed and repeat until holding steady. Clamp back off next to drum and remove the other and pump. Bleed. Repeat. Clamp. Move back to other side. Pump. Bleed. Repeat. Now remove all clamps. Pump and bleed one side at a time. Do this a few times to be sure you have gotten all the air out. Now you should have good brakes. What this does is bleeds one side at a time, eliminating the air traveling to the other side while you are bleeding. It also puts more pressure on one side at a time pushing more air out.

The spring inside my 1995 Magnum 425 master brake cylinder that attaches to the piston broke in half and Polaris no longer makes that part (7041311). I haven’t been able to find one anywhere online either. Is it possible to use a master cylinder from a later ATV in place of the obsolete one? There is no connection (electrical or otherwise) to the cylinder other than the brake line. I would rather adapt to a newer style that I can find parts for than buy another used part that may be worn out or broken. Any help would be appreciated.

Note: I did buy a replacement washer kit for it recently when it stopped working (this was how I found the broken spring) so I already had that installed before I realized I couldn’t buy a new spring.

I have absolutely no experience with safety flags as they are not required in Alaska, however my wife saw a few ATV’s/SxS’s with flags last weekend and thought it would be a good idea to put one on our rig. Our local shops don’t carry them, so if we order one on line what do you guys that use them all the time recommend? Spring base? One piece, two piece, or collapsible pole? Regular triangle orange flag for less resistance than a larger rectangle flag? It never gets dark here in the summer, so no need for those fancy LED flashing light sticks. Pictures are appreciated! Thank you.

Would stiffer springs in the centrifugal clutch prevent the kickstart from working properly? The springs are purple colored springs.

Okay so I just put my Rancher back together this past weekend and I have it running and driving perfectly. But now my front brakes don’t work. I have triple checked to make sure fluid isn’t leaking from the lines and all the banjo bolts are tight and have copper washers. I have spent a total of 3 hours bleeding them constantly and have used about 20 ounces of brake fluid through the system. The brakes will not build any pressure at the handle until about 8 quick tugs on it. Slow pomping doesn’t do any good to build pressure at all. When the brakes do pressurize after 8-10 pumps and have full pressure all the way through the handle, I crack the bleeder on either wheel and nothing but fluid comes out. There is no longer air and the fluid is shooting out. When the brakes are pressurized, one whee has enough braking force to lock up while the other has next to no brakes behind it.
I wrecked this bike last year and after I reassembled the brakes I bled them enough to wher they had full pressure after two quick tugs on the handle. Since draining that fluid out and trying to bleed them again they have gotten even worse.
What could be the cause of this?

Please no one hesitate to throw in ideas. I use this ATV at the local dirt track to move broken cars and need it fixed by Saturday

Anyone ever installed a snorkel my atv kit in conjunction with a highlifter radiator relocation kit? I’m unsatisfied with both. The air intake doesn’t have enough clearance to be hooked up due to the new location of the antifreeze jug, the pieces of pvc to hook the fittings together on the snorkle kit are too short to properly hook the fittings together. For the $450+ that I spent for both kits I’m very disappointed!

Hey guys. I just ordered a 2R exhaust tip, EHS tuner and Airbox cover kit, and clutch shim kit. I may have gone a little overboard, since I only have 30 miles on my new machine, but I was very disappointed in the low end performance and how hot the damn thing runs. Hoping these couple mods will wake the new girl up and cool her off a little. My question is, should I wait until the break in period is over before I start changing things?

Also, my first service at 200 miles is complementary from my dealer. I doubt a pleasant conversation would be had regarding my warranty if I rolled in with the mods I mentioned. Has anyone accessed their warranty with clutch or EFI mods?

Thanks,
Craig

Hey guys. I just ordered a 2R exhaust tip, EHS tuner and Airbox cover kit, and clutch shim kit. I may have gone a little overboard, since I only have 30 miles on my new machine, but I was very disappointed in the low end performance and how hot the damn thing runs. Hoping these couple mods will wake the new girl up and cool her off a little. My question is, should I wait until the break in period is over before I start changing things?

Also, my first service at 200 miles is complementary from my dealer. I doubt a pleasant conversation would be had regarding my warranty if I rolled in with the mods I mentioned. Has anyone accessed their warranty with clutch or EFI mods?

Thanks,
Craig

Well guys it appears that my rear drive shaft is out of phase approximately 45 degrees. It has been that way for a minimum of 300 miles, (long story) and I am finally noticing after drive line vibrations have gotten progressively worse. The atv has about 800 miles on it. My concern is, what damage could I be looking at from this mistake? The bike is still under warranty and I am going to be having a discussion with my local dealer. Long story short, either they installed it out of phase 300ish miles ago when making a repair under warranty, or it came from the factory like that, they didn’t catch the mistake, and they reinstalled it incorrectly. I’m kicking myself for not catching it when greasing, which has been done regularly. What would you guys look for regarding gearbox and rear diff damage? In other words "How screwed am I"?

Well guys it appears that my rear drive shaft is out of phase approximately 45 degrees. It has been that way for a minimum of 300 miles, (long story) and I am finally noticing after drive line vibrations have gotten progressively worse. The atv has about 800 miles on it. My concern is, what damage could I be looking at from this mistake? The bike is still under warranty and I am going to be having a discussion with my local dealer. Long story short, either they installed it out of phase 300ish miles ago when making a repair under warranty, or it came from the factory like that, they didn’t catch the mistake, and they reinstalled it incorrectly. I’m kicking myself for not catching it when greasing, which has been done regularly. What would you guys look for regarding gearbox and rear diff damage? In other words "How screwed am I"?