So, got all those "safety labels" off the fenders and elsewhere on the body. What is the best thing to use to get the remaining glue off without damaging the plastic ?

Hey guys! I been on here for a bit a week now but just found this new member section. I bought a 2011 can am outlander 650 max xt and so far I love it! I’m from the Pittsburgh pa areaAttachment 49265Attachment 49273Attachment 49281

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I’m wondering if anyone else has had an issue even remotely similar. We have a brand spankin new Renegade with just over 6 hours on it. It has been sitting at 2 dealerships over past 2 months because we had an issue where the steering caught and hung up while riding. Now this caused the atv to flip. What we found was that a bolt WAY down inside had come loose, and on it’s way out had apparently jammed the steering. There are marks on the bolt itself and on the surrounding bracket that shows where it was moving around before it came out.

Now we have an $11,000 repair estimate on a machine we spent about $12,000 or a bit more on that BRP says is not a warranty issue and pretty much told us we’re screwed. I can only get customer service reps on the phone at BRP who won’t do anything for us. Our dealer has done just about all they can. Does anyone know of a further step…This was not rider error, BRP should try to do something for us I think.

I understand riding in muddy conditions will wear out components especially brake pads.. But seeing as how i ride mainly deep water not mud and i have 81 miles i repeat 81 miles on my new machine i feel that the rear pads being metal on metal already is a bit ridiculous. Anybody else have a problem with this ? my gncc trx450r will go months and months if not a whole season on one set of pads and i uauslly race in nastier conditions then i ride this xmr so what gives ? Also sense ive owned the bike if riding at a decent speed on mild to rough trails i have a clunk in the rear half of the bike. ive tryed to watch and shake it jump on it ect to find it to no avail. any thoughts ?

Hi. I have a 2013 Outlander 800XT. Does anyone know why the brake caliper would rub the inside of the rim. The wheel bearing doesn’t seem to have any play and the brake caliper is tight. The only thing I see with a little play is one of the bushings on the lower A-arm. I never heard or felt anything that would indicate I had a problem but now I have a nice pretty hole in my rim.

just wondering what tires you guys think are best.

Kinda feel like I am at Disney world, with just a few friends….lol.

:happy::banana::lala:

Alright so I am stumped. Got back from 9 month "vacation" and went out to the garage to start the Wheeler. as expected the battery was dead and needed charged but it started with the pull string. It ran for about a minute then cut off. So I charged the battery up nicely and reinstalled it. tried to start it and it would not fire up. After all trouble shooting I know to do figured out that I have no Spark now. getting fuel, air, but no spark now. Has anyone dealt with this type of problem before and do you know the solution.

wow! i was on facebook looking at a atv rally in minnesota. one of the guys told me to check out this forum. YALL GOT A TRAIL BOSS FORUM! totally blown away!

ive had my trail boss for a year now. its been fun messing around with. just rebuilt the carb on it. but i have a problem now i dont know what to do with. the "rear" break on the transmission isnt working at all. my friend and i took it apart and its not getting brake fluid at all. we bled the front brakes and those work perfectly. im kind of at a lost on what to do.

where can i get parts? whats a rear/transmission brake cost?
what kind of brake lines does this thing need?

did a little paint job on it. its just rhyno bed liner. hell of a lot better then the faded gray and red it use to be.

I’m looking into getting led headlights for my 2011 outlander 650 max xt. I am looking for the plug and play set up. Anyone have any links where I can get a decent set?