any one know when polaris is going to add a new color or add the SE or LE to the sportsman 1000 xp line up this year? not much for options this year with the 1k.

I have a 2008 Polaris Trailblazer 330 & it has a problem with bogging out and sputtering anything over half throttle. It idles great & runs fine until you get to half throttle. We took off the carb & checked it & it was super clean. We put a new spark plug in. We’re pretty stumped of what it is at the moment now. Can anyone help?

I have a sportsman 600 and was wondering if there is and cheap ways to get more power. or any way for that matter? thanks

I have a 420 stock and I have 2 questions

1. When I shift my rear axle jumps how can I fix that?

2. How can I make it faster?

Thanks for the help?

My 2010 Rancher 420AT is having problems starting from a dead stop. When I’m in first gear and give the bike gas it starts to move slowly with the engine reeving up and then it engages abruptly. This causes the wheels to spin and a jerking motion. The hotter the bike gets, the worse the problem is. The bike does this in both ESP as well as Auto Mode.
I have changed the oil, cleaned radiator to make sure the bike is running cool also the centrifugal clutch drum and all 4 clutch shoe weights. The bike continues to run the same way.
Looking for help of what to try next.

I’m still finding the 2015 Rubicon rough on shifts a year after buying it and I’m really not happy compared to the 2015 Rancher I bought the same day. I’ve changed the oil four times since the purchase using Honda oil.

After getting some excellent advice from Kentco earlier this year, I have been reading on what’s the best brand that is available locally. I can get Mobil 1 at Walmart, but only in litres at $16.97 which is too much. I decided to buy the Rotella T6 Synthetic for $42.97 (5L) at Walmart with a $5 online rebate. I will be changing the oil tomorrow night and will have some feedback about any improvement in shifting.

Just wondering if anyone knows a non-Honda part number for an oil filter that I might be able to get at Walmart, Canadian Tire or Napa.

For those also reviewing JASO MA spec oil, I came across this excellent webpage with easy to understand explanations:

https://www.lubrizol.com/MCEO/Spec-C…-MA-vs-MB.html

Jeff

I’m still finding the 2015 Rubicon rough on shifts a year after buying it and I’m really not happy compared to the 2015 Rancher I bought the same day. I’ve changed the oil four times since the purchase using Honda oil.

After getting some excellent advice from Kentco earlier this year, I have been reading on what’s the best brand that is available locally. I can get Mobil 1 at Walmart, but only in litres at $16.97 which is too much. I decided to buy the Rotella T6 Synthetic for $42.97 (5L) at Walmart with a $5 online rebate. I will be changing the oil tomorrow night and will have some feedback about any improvement in shifting.

Just wondering if anyone knows a non-Honda part number for an oil filter that I might be able to get at Walmart, Canadian Tire or Napa.

For those also reviewing JASO MA spec oil, I came across this excellent webpage with easy to understand explanations:

https://www.lubrizol.com/MCEO/Spec-C…-MA-vs-MB.html

Jeff

I have now installed a Grizzly 700 Clutch Cam Plate in my Grizzly 660. I completed this several weeks ago, but just put the first ride on it last weekend. So this is the update as promised from a previous thread I had going about poor gas mileage.

Since my last thread about poor gas mileage I have replaced my OEM secondary spring with a Dalton Red Spring (195 lbs @ 3", 312 lbs @ 1.75"). I have also installed a 2.0 mm shim (1.96mm measured on vernier caliper. I made the shim at home). But most importantly for this thread is the addition of the 700 cam plate.
The 700 cam plate has the exact same splines, size, fitment and angles as the 660 cam plate. The 700 cam plate just uses much, much better sliders that do not wear out. While I have found no performance increase with the 700 cam plate, there is absolutely no deficit either. But in my opinion the better slider design makes it a worthwhile upgrade to the 660 clutching. Additionally, the 700 cam plate with 4 new sliders (~$50) was still cheaper than a 660 cam plate alone (~$80) at my local dealer.

So for anyone Google’ing this or reading this on the future, the 700 cam plate is a bolt on part to the 660. It works perfect. I hope this helps someone that wants to find the answer to this question.

looking for new shocks. i have 3500 miles on my 550 and the shocks are shot, i mean gone. they bottom out on the smallest of bumps, so i am looking for new shocks that ride better and last longer than two years. i have a super atv 2 inch lift on my machine and was wondering what others have done to avoid spending almost 2 grand on new suspension. i cant justify spending 1/3 of the atvs value on one upgrade. has anyone swapped different shocks from or messed around with the super cheap ebay separate reservoir shocks and springs?