So I had a 2004 klx 125 that I traded for this 1998 scrambler 400. I was told the carb needed adjusted it wouldn’t idle low and gas comes out overflow. I figured clean the carb and adjust to stock specs. Also was told he disconnected the oil pump and started to premix due to what he read online. So I traded. Then I found there was no air box. I figured definitely clean carb and but intake box. Took carb apart and fount it clean looks like it was rebuild. Check the specs for jets and all are correct. Put back together put airbox on and it wouldn’t start. Took the airbox off and it started up. Even with only air filter off same problem had to take the whole thing off. Now I put the air box on with it running and it bogged down hit the throttle and it spun up but very little power. Any suggestions.

What is a good replacement fan instead of the high dollar Yamaha one?? Anybody upgraded their fan?

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Hi All,
Not sure anyone cares but I decided to take a crack at creating my own thermostat fan switch for a 1994 Polaris 300.

The thermostat fan switch part number 4110114 which I believe supersedes 4010211 is now obsolete. It is used on a lot of the older (late 80s and early 90s) air cooled ATVs. What I’ve found so far on the internet is that most folks just rewire the fan to a switch and turn it on as needed (under heavy load, idling, going very slow, etc.) As my wife and daughters will be riding this machine I thought it would be better to create a new thermostat switch.

What you need:

• Old Thermostat fan switch to use as a mount
• White Rodgers thermostat switch part number 3F11-225. this switch closes at 225 degrees F and opens at 195 degrees F. Also called Bimetal disc or snap switch. $9.41 plus shipping from Mouser electronics
• A custom made metal mount with three holes (simple)
• Various nuts, bolts, and washers
• Thermal compound paste like used for heat sinks on a computer CPU (not sure if this is necessary)
• Loctite

I took the old thermostat and broke off the black plastic part and tabs and then ground the brass part flat on a grinding wheel to create a mount.

Then I made a simple metal piece with three holes that would be used to mount a new White Rogers thermostat switch.

Add some thermal compound paste to the contact areas that will transfer heat to the switch. I don’t know if the air temp or frame temp is the driving factor to trip the switch so I used thermal compound just in case frame temperature is critical.

Assemble all the parts and mount on your ATV. Please note the following:

• I carefully bent the Thermostat switch tabs 90 degrees so they were similar to the original switch.
• Although it might not be effective because the bolts are too small, permanent Loctite was used on the nuts and bolts
• 2 washers were added to the to the mount to compensate for the bolt heads to ensure there would be good thermal contact to the mounting location.

I did some testing with an infrared laser thermometer and found that when the frame where the fan switch is mounted gets to ~260 degrees F enough heat is transferred to the switch so it closes at 225 degrees. When it cools off to 195 degrees F then the switch opens and turns off the fan.

If you want too have the fan turn on at a lower temperature you can use a different switch with a lower temperature trip point. There is a thermostat switch that closes at 180 degrees but I think the fan would be on more than needed.

Not really sure how durable this home made part will be but I can keep folks posted as we use the ATV.

Pics below and in next post.

Hope this is helpful to someone.

Pigseye

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Anybody else breaking these things often? I’m on my 3rd one! Sticks keep jumping in there and breaking it!! Tired of it!

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My 2010 Renegade 500 makes a crunchy sound when I hit the rear brake hard. The brake pads and disk look good to me but I’m not a mechanic but I’ve replaced the brake on cars a few times. The bike has only 1400 miles on it. Since it is the 2010 previous design I think it doesn’t suffer from the newer designs thin pads problem.

(Last week I posted about this but there were some errors in that post and thread so I thought I would start fresh now that I have better info.)

Anybody know a place on the Web I can purchase a new one under 500 bucks?

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Can an ATV be out of alignment like a car or truck? My ’10 Rancher pulls to the right and the front right tire is worn on the right side as well. It’s due for 4 new tires anyway, but don’t really want to invest $$ in new tires if something else is causing it.

I finally am getting my scrammy back together after a few months(all wheel bearings, all bushings, steering post fix) so I’m putting(trying) all the plastics back together and the right(coolant tank side) I put the fuel take cover on but it feels like I’m missing something that would cover the top of the fuel take where all lines and actual pump sits. But I don’t see anything in my garage. Am I missing a piece or does it stay open? I’ll attach a pic, thanks guys!

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I finally am getting my scrammy back together after a few months(all wheel bearings, all bushings, steering post fix) so I’m putting(trying) all the plastics back together and the right(coolant tank side) I put the fuel take cover on but it feels like I’m missing something that would cover the top of the fuel take where all lines and actual pump sits. But I don’t see anything in my garage. Am I missing a piece or does it stay open? I’ll attach a pic, thanks guys!

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I decided to paint my muffler today, however I’m having issues removing the muffler.

Springs are off. I just can’t seem to get it off the swing/guide assembly

Am I miss something?