2000 Sportsman 400 – STOCK

Engine over heating in slow normal conditions.
Fan was not working so I removed rad, cleaned it
New coolant
Hard wired an new fan in, Fan comes on as soon as the key is on.

Took it for a drive and it overheated again.

What am I missing? Water pump? What is best way to check that without removing it, I know that is a pain…. 🙁

I read something about air in system?

For the longest time my 2007 Honda FourTrax Rancher 420 TRX420FM would backfire and shut off when. Turns out it was the fuel filter. After replacing the filter when i turned the key on the 2 red lights would flicker. When i tried to start it the battery was low so i charged it overnight. This morning i went out and turned the key on the 2 red light still flickered and the clicking noise was still there. When i pushed the started button it would turn over and the lights would would stay red. After letting off the starter button the red lights would flicker and the clicking noise came back. I took the battery out and hooked it up outside the battery box. I turned on the key and the same thing happened. The clicking noise was somewhere behind where the battery box is. I moved a couple of wires to get a better view of where the noise was coming from. When i did the 2 red lights went out and the clicking noise stopped however the engine turn over. i used a screwdriver to jump the cyclonoid and the engine would turn over. Im pretty something else is wrong and not the cyclonoid. I ordered one just in case. Any other ideas on what might be wrong?

Thanks

Machine with issue is an 2014 Outlander Max 500 XT. I find occasionally the bike stalls when I give a very small shot of throttle. It may have happened once on the trail but usually a short time after start up. Is it possible that the bike is not warmed up? There is no other reason I’d be aware of.

2000ish Sportsman 400

None of my indicator lights on the "dash" work.

Since none of them work I thought it might be the ground. The common ground that goes up for all of them is good.

When I put a known 12V to the "neutral" light or Reverse light they still do not light up.

The PO had disconnected the wiring from the shifter to the "fuse box" hoping someone can tell me where there wires go in the fuse junction

Red and white- this goes to a spot with 12V when key is on
Blue and purple, this is hot in reverse
green white- hot in Neutral
Grey and white- hot in Low

So where do they go in the junction box to make the lights work?

Thanks

Sportsman 400, around 2000 ish model

The AWD does not work.
I found the wiring CUT,

Wiring from the button on the right hand handle bar
Brown- this is a ground I know that
White and grey- goes to "fuse box" there is no power that comes from that when quad is running at any time
Grey- also goes to fuse box. Again no power.

Weird one. Yellow wire coming from switch. The PO at some time has spliced this to the white and grey wire, prior to it going to the fuse junction.

My question
How is this wiring suppose to work? I assume it must get power (yellow?) Then when the button is activated it sends power back through the grey wire? I assume this because beside the grey wire in the junction are two small grey wires. 1 goes to each hub assy and they are the only 2 wires (along with small ground wires ) that come from the front hubs

Thanks
Also there does not appear to be any indicator light?

So my 87 Trx 350 WILL NOT movee, goes into gear but will not move. help

So my 87 Trx 350 WILL NOT movee, goes into gear but will not move. help

Hello,
I’ve had an ongoing issue with my 2007, 700 sputtering when easing off on the throttle while in motion.
It feels like the engine is being governed like when the reverse governor kicks in. The reverse light indicated on the shifter flashes when this happens. Almost feels like a clogged fuel filter issue. Any thoughts or solutions. I would like to repair this myself.
Cheers

Hello,
I’ve had an ongoing issue with my 2007, 700 sputtering when easing off on the throttle while in motion.
It feels like the engine is being governed like when the reverse governor kicks in. The reverse light indicated on the shifter flashes when this happens. Almost feels like a clogged fuel filter issue. Any thoughts or solutions. I would like to repair this myself.
Cheers

I’ve "inherited" a 1999 Big Bear 350 which has been sitting for about a year. The fuel tank was dry when I opened it up, but I don’t know how it was done.

Upon initially receiving the vehicle, it would not start by pulling, and got no response from the push button start. The Neutral and Reverse lights never light up but when I press the push button start, the oil light does light up. Using this knowledge I swapped the leads from the oil light to the other two individually and tested them. They both work.

I have replaced the battery and spark plug, cleaned the air filter and associated box. I cleaned the carburetor, except for one jet, which I didn’t want to mar while trying to extract with an improper tool. I poked a wire down into it, and sprayed it with an excessive amount of carburetor cleaner.

I opened up the fuel valve and ran fuel through it to make sure it worked properly and was truly dry to begin with, and also to clear out any debris that may have deposited inside. This seems to be working properly so I filled the tank with new fuel.

After all of this, I have jumped past the starting relay, and get the starter to turn over, but the vehicle won’t catch and run. I can’t use the pull start either.

I have checked all the fuses I could find (including the Main Fuse) both visually and with a meter. When I turn on the main switch, the lights that are not broken operate normally.

I have two theories I’m running with — the Neutral Safety Switch (or Gear Position Sensor) and Reverse Switch are faulty, or an issue with the CDI. I have not checked for spark since installing the new spark plug, but I believe that the Neutral Switch issue would prevent it from getting a spark, even bypassing the starter relay. I could be wrong about that though.

Going with the Neutral Safety Switch, in the back of the engine on the right half I’ve found a stud with a male spade sticking out with a single wire attached to it, which when removed appears to be a simple brass bolt. I believe this to be the Reverse Switch. I’ve checked it and it has no continuity between the spade and the inside flat area. I believe this is proof that it is faulty, but I’m not sure of proper identification nor troubleshooting test.

If I look just above this I find two wires going through a rubber grommet into the engine. I opened this up, lost all my oil (which is fine, I was going to change it anyway) and saw that the wires ran behind a couple of large metal wheels (I’m an electrician, not a mechanic, so bear with me here, please.) I believe that to be the neutral safety switch.

If I am correct about these items, I need to replace them, and have no idea how to get to the neutral safety switch. Are these what I think they are? Is there a way to bypass it/them so that I can make sure that it is the culprit? How do I remove the gears/flywheels to actually get to the device? Is there a way to troubleshoot these switches? Check continuity between what?