In another thread I posted about transmission problems with this quad. I fixed the transmission and now have a new problem. It won’t idle without the choke on. Before the transmission rebuild the thing ran fine but always idled a little slow. When I rebuilt the transmission, I took the engine, transmission and carb out as one unit, ie the carb did not get removed from the engine. After the rebuild it would turn over fine but would not fire. Checked for spark and it was good. Pulled the plug and it was slightly wet but never smelled fuel during the attempted starts, even with full choke. Checked the fuel tank it was very low, maybe empty. Filled with fresh fuel and it fired but wouldn’t stay running. After several tries I drained the float bowl and tried again. Success, it started but idled very rough on full choke. After running for several minutes the idle got rougher and the choked was turned down. The idle was little better but still very rough and any attempt to turn the choke off resulted in immediate stalling.
Put sea foam in tank, drained float bowl again and drained some fuel from tank. Checked the inline fuel filter and no restrictions. Over the next few days I have been able to get it to idle but only after running it with the choke on and slowly turning it down over the course of about 15 minutes of high idling. I have taken it for a few high speed runs and it runs fine at high speed. I pulled the carb and cleaned it but the issue persists. Another issue is that when the throttle is released, the rpms don’t drop immediately, like the throttle is sticking. Don’t know if that is related but might as well point it out.
Anyone have any ideas what is causing this new issue?
I have a 2004 700 Sportsman. I just removed the radiator because it got damaged while plowing last winter. Don’t ask. Anyways when I removed the upper bracket bolts to pull the front bumper assembly forward it nearly came off. Closer examination revealed that I did not have lower bumper bracket bolts that attach it to the bottom. These bolts attach from the bottom and it looks like they are self taping bolts. Does anyone know the size of the bolts. Unfortunately I did not take a picture to show you exactly where I am talking about. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi all. Got a 1994 trxd 200 type 2. I had the cylinder honed and got a slightly oversized piston. I’m to the point of putting it back together, however, the wrist pin will slide in about halfway through the rod end, but won’t go in any further. I’m reluctant to do any pounding to push it through until I get other’s insight on this.
Short history was that this engine had lost oil, the cylinder walls were scuffed up a little and it was blowing a fair amount of smoke after i took the crankcase cover to a welding shop to repair the hole made by a chain coming loose-which took a chunk out of the cover. And as noted above, I took the cylinder to a shop and had it honed .25 oversized. I did have to press out the pin by using a bolt and nut setup.
I have checked the inside of the rod end, it doesn’t feel like there is a ridge on the inside. Do you place the wrist pin by heating up the rod end and slide the pin through? Is the pin supposed to be free to rotate inside the rod end, or is it fixed in there?
I purchased a 2009 Honda Rubicon and the bike had been sitting up for about 3 years according to the owner. I noticed water in the oil, and it was hard to pull. The bike is snorkeled so I can assume it was in the water in the past. I took apart the top end to inspect it. The guy had put a new piston and rings and never done anything else with it. I adjusted the valve clearance and checked the timing chain tension. I changed the oil and the filter a few times and it seems to run pretty good. It shifts in EPS fine, and shifts in auto just fine. I can ride around on it for about 15mins then the clutch starts to slip. You can hear what sounds like the clutch on front side of the motor slipping and making a whining noise. Doesn’t sound like noise coming from the transmission, but clearly from the front side. When I get back home I will check the oil pressure, had to order the crossover fitting for my oil pump guage. But I did have the plug off and gave it some throttle and the oil shot out about 20 yards so I am guessing the oil pressure is fine. Can anyone tell me if low oil pressure would make the clutch slip? or do yall think it is just glazed over from the water in the oil? Has anyone had the same issues? Bike runs good until it warms up, then it barely pulls and makes the whining sound like the clutch is slipping. Doesn’t make any sense why it only does it after it warms up about 15mins. All gears shift fine, Auto works fine, no grinding noises or anything. Do you think the water in the oil sitting up for that long would glaze the clutch? I am a newbie and had this posted up in the Newbie forum and was giving some good information already. I thought I would have a better chance of running into someone who has had the same issue on this forum. Any help would be appreciated.
I’ve been wanting to wire up an external accessory hook up for air compressors, jumper cables, ect. Just wondering if anyone here has done anything of the sort.
I’m going to be making a set of smaller gauge jumper cables and the battery on the 14′ 570 isn’t anything but a pain in the ass to get to so I was going to do something like this set up,
And get a few more male ends and wire them up on the air compressor and things like that.
I realize there’s an 12v act hookup for phone chargers and things like that, but I would imagine it’s on a small fuse so that won’t work for anything that draws higher amperage.
Thanks for reading, love to hear what you guys think
so i just emptied my rear dif and noticed the oil had a slight milky tinge to it. so water got in somehow. First what can i do to seal it up and second will that cause any damage? this was my first change at like 15hrs of operation.
I love my ATV. I cherish my ATV. My ATV was running perfectly. I even named my ATV Brad. (Haha—just kidding, bad attempt at mirroring that stupid car ad on TV). Then I did an incredibly stupid thing…
After determining that I had a bit of water in the tank (because it started to act a bit sluggish the last couple weekends) on my 1997 Polaris Sportsman 400, I proceeded to run down to the hardware store and pick up a bottle of propylene glycol (HEET). Without researching or even taking a simple moment to read the instructions, I added the entire bottle to the 3 gallons that was in my tank. Started her up and it ran terrific once again, and the lost of HP was immediately remedied. I was happy, so happy I ran her for about 20 minutes wide open. Then decided to take her back home and as I slowly pulled into my metal shop, she died on her own. I haven’t been able to crank her over since(using the starter or pull cord). I am perplexed as it has always been faithful and starts fine 100% of the time. Obviously this is not conscience.
Has anyone else in the history of dumb acts ever done something so horribly stupid? Any advice for this ill-advised situation I find myself in?
What I have tried: I pulled the plug and put a new plug in. The compression is still strong when I pull it so I don’t think (holding my breath) that I damaged the rings. I can pull-and-pull to exhaustion but she refuses to start up, and when I try the electric-starter it just gives me one "click" like its the battery (but it definitely isn’t the battery, new battery, fully charged).
So if anyone can offer any advice, I would appreciate it. I have Google searched words like "using too much propylene glycol", and every word closely associated with this issue, with absolutely no luck (which makes me think I’m the only dumb’arsh to have done this) Any recommendations??…Anyone??
Hey all, FNG here, after riding in a rally, i have no brakes. i checked the cylinder on the right hand side (front brakes?) and there was no fluid in there. i asked a backyard mechanic, he said sometimes fluid will sit in the "slave reservoir" behind the right tire. Im thinking the brake line was cut somehow. I havent cleaned under the machine yet. Whats the best way to clean the under carriage? should i run brake fluid through the line to see if the line leaks? Also its both front and pedal brake.
