2004 Bruin carb/fuel issues

Hi All,

New to the forum and was hoping someone more familar with these could help..

I have a customer who brought in his 04 bruin after he attempted to rebuild his carb on his own.. half the new parts went in, half he brought to me in a bag.. The quad had been sitting for about years prior to him doing all this. The issue is that it idles great but bogs out after 1/4 throttle. Carb looked new inside and out but I still removed and rebuild to be safe. (this included ultrasonic cleaning and compressed air for everything. All jets replaced with new. Re-installed, same issue. But it will rev up no problem when I cover the snorkel intake to the airbox.

It’s obviously starving for gas or way too lean with air. While I’m very comfortable with older and 2 stroke carbs, this one was different than others I’ve worked on with the vaccuum controlled slide etc.

Upon initial inspection, I noticed an extra jet Im not used to seeing, which I guess is a "starter jet". The diagram isn’t clear but what I found in there was a 127 jet. On the higher pedestal in which the slide needle goes into, I found a 57.5 jet. On any other carb I’ve worked on this is the main jet, so it looked to me liked the owner may have confused the 2 and put the smaller jet in the main so I swapped them and reinstalled. After doing this, it would not start or idle without a lot of throttle and would immediately die without throttle. (I did this without the airbox installed, but noticed it looks like the pulse line from the head pressurizes the carb through the airbox – another first for me). It was running pig-rich also, strong gas fumes, very wet plug after only a minute or so..
My next step is to try this orientation with the airbox in and sede if that makes a difference.

Other things I’ve tried – new gas (plenty of flow from petcock), new plug, inspected intake boot (looks new), sprayed starting fluid all around looking for air leaks.

The mixture screw is blocked off so I haven’t touched that. It’s worth noting that the machine looks brand new and was well maintained until sitting and was always stored inside.

Any other ideas?? I’ll update with what happens after putting the airbox back in and trying again. As of now, with the jets the way he had them, it will only rev up with the airbox inlet about 75% covered and under any circumstances, it WILL NOT run with the choke on – even halfway engaged, it cuts right out..

Any help is appreciated!! :peace:

Tried running

Polaris gurus assistance please!

Hello Atv comunity. I am a newbie, not just to this sight, but to the Atv world. I just purchased my first quad last weekend. 05 magnum 330 awd. Great looking quad hasn’t been beat on too much. Its lived a farm life. I bought this non running for I think a good price knowing I had to monkey with it and add a few $ to it. I always try to fix my cars with the internets help I usually figure things out. So I wasn’t to scared of this.
I researched the discribe problems prior to purchase. My conclusion was it needs the thermister, (been removed) and probably an ecm if that doesn’t do the trick. Turn the key on and it just flashes hot. It starts well and Idless well, but cuts out and dies when throttling up. I see the boot from the carb to air tank is not on very well. So from what I read about these I am assuming/crossing my fingers that this may be the issue. I am curios though, I was told this had a lower end rebuild (not that I can truly trust that, no paperwork to prove) it does have a clanking sound as if metal were being slapped or somthing is this normal or a bad sighn?

Ok guys so here is my real question. My thermister part# 1010934 is discontinued, I have searched on line all week and at this point am frustrated and brain dead. Is there any other thermisters that would/ could work. I don’t feel like dropping a hundred bucks on a maybe from my dealer who won’t return electrical.

Final thoughts I am both extremely excited over this quad and extremely discontented with Polaris at the same time. I grew up looking at the Honda 3 wheeless and in the past few years polaris has made a name for itself. I am bothered that an 05 would be impossible to get parts for considering how many different units use the same part. Dealer said after 7 to 10 yeas they quit making them. Well my 2 cents thinks it’s criminal if they have sold out of parts they obviously need them because they had issues. When I purchased this I never considered a 12 year old machine to be obselete and didn’t forsee the issue. Polaris as well as all the atv makers need to realize. They have a whole line of customers those who can afford new, and those who can only afford projects like me. Leaves a bad taste in my mouth and I am very surprised I don’t hear much uproar about it.

Well I got kinda long winded, thanks for reading if you are still. Lol

And an even bigger thank you to those who reply. Have a great ride.

Potential Grizzly/Kodiak 700 owner– few quick questions

Hey everyone, long-time Brute Force owner here. Had my ’07 650i since new and love it dearly but it’s hit the point at which it’s causing more problems than it’s worth. I fix things after every trip, and it’s taking a lot of the joy out of riding in stressing over repairing it and never knowing if it will start or not. It’s been a good quad, and I’ve done some amazing trips on it, but now it’s more of a PITA than I can put up with. As such, it may be time for the Brute to go.

I don’t ride as much as I used to (maybe ~10-15 trips/year now) so justifying an expensive machine is pretty difficult to do. Thus, I’m pretty interested in the Kodiak; it seems to have most of everything I want at a price that’s the most reasonable of any big-bore out there. Obviously coming from the Brute I’d like more power than the Kodiak has, but you can’t have everything (especially with a super tight budget).

From what I’ve read, the only difference between the Kodiak and Grizzly in terms of power/speed is the clutching. Sounds like they use different clutch weights to make the power come on differently. My question is this: Would swapping in the Grizzly’s clutch weights make the Kodiak on par with the Grizz? I know the Grizzly still isn’t a power monster but it sounds like for the trails, the Kodiak definitely leaves something to be desired. Worried I’ll miss this punch of the Brute, but wondering where to start should I go the Kodiak route.

Other quick question: locking diff is only available on the SE version, correct? If it came down to a higher-tier Kodiak or a base, non-EPS Grizzly, which would be the better route to go? EPS would be nice but I’ve only ridden a quad with power steering for twice, for no more than 30 seconds each, so it’s not like I’ll be missing much. And I’m sure either Yamaha will be much easier to steer than the Brute is.

Lowest prices (new) I’ve seen for the Kodiak and Grizzly are as follows:
-Kodiak: $5999 (6999 w/EPS)
-Grizzly: $7699 w/EPS
Anybody seen any better deals out there?

Also considering the King Quad 750 (found one for $6500 new) and the Brute 750 (found one for $7200). I’d love to have the Brute’s power still but the unreliability had seriously turned me off. As for the Suzuki, I don’t have much experience with them. I had a Kodiak 450 before the Brute and it was flawless, so wouldn’t mind going the Yamaha route again. I know everyone here will likely be biased, but figured it’s a good place to start.

Thanks in advance for any help. I haven’t quad shopped in just about ten years so this is a whole new ballgame to me.

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