New soon to be rzr owner

What’s up guys, I’m Bobbo from south central Texas. Should be picking up my first rzr in a couple weeks. It’s gonna be a 900 s but torn between the eps model or not. If I get the w/l and add eps I’m goin to be about 5-600 bucks ahead over buying the eps model. My question is, the front diff worth it?

What cage are you putting on your XP1K?

Check out this Race Cage from CAGE WRX. It comes welded or in a kit, if you are a experienced welder.



Trophy Truck inspired design provides exceptional safety in a clean and simple design. All of our UTV Race Cages utilize a slight radius roof line. All tubes are mandrel bent and laser cut for exact fit. Tube junctions are keyed for an exact fit. All six stock mounting locations are used and all six chassis clamps are included. No grinding or other work required. Kit can be assembled and welded on chassis without the need for a separate fixture. Everything needed to replace the stock roll cage is provided. Kit must be assembled and welded by a competent fabricator.

Highly triangulated roll cage for added strength
Includes (6) CNC machined chassis clamps
Tubes are laser cut and labeled
No welding fixture required
No grinding or other fab work required
Competent welder and welding machine, tape measure and 2 ratchet straps are all that is required

Call for more info or click the link below. Feel free to call to place your order today.
http://www.sxsperformance.com/Produc…Assembled.aspx

SXS Performance
855-797-7373

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06 Recon ES

Okay for all of you experts out there and Recon ES or ES owners. I’m looking into a purchase of an 2006 Recon ES version atv. I know absolutely nothing involved the ES versions and I’d like to know what to look for involving it. I really don’t know what questions to ask the seller. The pictures look clean and it doesn’t look abused. Was the 06 Recon ES a good year or where there issues. I know that the 96 300fw had an issue of the rear going out. So I was just wondering. Anyway, any help with the ES issues/questions and also what would be a good negotiating price to begin with and what price I should stick to my guns with. Thank you for the help and time. Jack

Clicking Kodiak is driving me crazy!!!

My 2004 Kodiak 450 developed a clicking in the rear and I can’t find it to save my life! Here is what I know:

The sound is a high pitched click that sounds a lot like a bad CV joint but It’s an SRA so no CV joints.

It happens when starting off and sometimes when doing donuts. It stops once the bike is moving (unless doing donuts and even then rarely) and does not happen until stopped again. It occasionally (but rarely) happens with the engine off by sitting on the bike or grabbing it and scooting it to the side.

I’m about 95% sure the sound is coming from the left wheel.

I can duplicate the clicking by putting the bike in park, grabbing the left side wheel and rolling it back and forth hard. I have not been able to duplicate it by doing this with the right side wheel.

I pulled the left side apart, replaced the brake pads and checked everything and could not find anything obvious. After I put it back together it is a LOT harder to make it click by rocking the wheel.

There is no play in the bearings, no squeaking, grinding or any other indications that the bearings are bad.

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