I don’t have much time to get on here, but i do at times and have found answers to a lot off questions before asking, so thanks to everyone.

Few weeks back i went to HMT Trail Fest in Gilbert, WV, and Honda was one of the vendors there with next years models on display. They had a Foreman Rubicon with a Matt Black finish that was AWESOME…..Does anyone know if this is the first year they offer that? It was the best looking ATV there out of all the vendors by far..

I had my ’15 570 out last night for a little under an hour when the check engine light came on. It didn’t show a code and I didn’t know how to get it to display the code at the time so I just drove it home since I was very close by. Now the check engine doesn’t come back on when I scroll through using the mode button. I tried scrolling in every gear as well. I took it out for a quick ride to see if it would come back on and it didn’t.

Just in case it matters, I was in low gear and was pulling a trailer with 5 kids around the subdivision for Halloween.

Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!

The spline on the front end of my 2002 Kodiak ‘driven shaft’ (pt #26) are stuffed, I have a new shaft to fit, but I hope somebody has stripped one of these motors down and can answer a couple of questions before I proceed.
-After removing seal #30 (done) and undoing nut #29 will the shaft pull out and leave everything within the motor in place so I can just slide the new shaft back in, or (shock,horror,noooh) will I have to pull the motor down to replace the shaft?
-Is the collar #28 a shrunk fit on the shaft and holds the bearing #27 in place?
-If that is the case can that be heated up and slid of like I used to do on the old car rear axle, assuming you had the same rear axle set up on old Fords and Chevs in USofA like we do in Australia.
-And then re heated and dropped back on to the new axle.

I have asked this question before with no responce so I hope I have more success this time around, I am thinking I will just try it and if the new shaft won’t slide back in I will pull the motor down, but I just like to know what I am up against before I start.
I have had no success finding the special ring spanner so I will have to make one of them up as well.

Wayne from Oz

PS I know the nut is a LH thread

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I have a 2002 Big Bear. I recently put a new battery on it and after using it several times it sounded like it had a bad connection to the battery so connections were cleaned and reconnected. Now it will only pull start and run about 20 mins and will die electrically, neutral and all other lights go out. All fuses are okay and battery indicates full charge. Any other ideas where to look for the problem?

I am in the process of getting a like new XMR1000 with 250 miles on it with many extras. I am getting a great deal and not passing it up! I know to look out for the air-ride, I will do some Elka stage3 shocks if any issues with that. Other than that, what other things can I expect? I’m finally moving from a Piglaris 850xp which I totaled by snapping the frame, thankfully I had insurance! So without telling me why I don’t need this machine or that I should get a 570, what issues should I look for and expect? I ride mostly trails, but have great mud holes everywhere! Thanks in advance!

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Heya!

So picked up my project bike today. 2003 TRX400FA. It seems ok – not super tidy but a good project none the less and the engine / frame are mint.

It however does have an issue I thought could be angle sensor, but the diagnostic test came back with a different flash code:

4 flashes,gear position switch system, probable faulty part,gear position switch or related wiring or ECU

Would anybody have any ideas or links to previous discussions where this issue has been remedied? I did note there was a little bit of plastic under the seat that looked like it may have been nibbled on by a rat!! So maybe we have a wire with compromised integrity?
Any help greatly appreciated!

Heya!

So picked up my project bike today. 2003 TRX400FA. It seems ok – not super tidy but a good project none the less and the engine / frame are mint.

It however does have an issue I thought could be angle sensor, but the diagnostic test came back with a different flash code:

4 flashes,gear position switch system, probable faulty part,gear position switch or related wiring or ECU

Would anybody have any ideas or links to previous discussions where this issue has been remedied? I did note there was a little bit of plastic under the seat that looked like it may have been nibbled on by a rat!! So maybe we have a wire with compromised integrity?
Any help greatly appreciated!

My 86 Honda 350 fourtrax shifter started hanging down and I noticed a oil leak when I dropped the skid plate I found a small hole in the stator cover below the gear shifter shifter seems to be working fine now took cover off to replace it shifter gear looks good any suggestions or ideas on what I’m missing

on my 94 trx300fw.

Bought her about a month and a half ago and have tore her down to motor and frame and rebuilt her.

She runs really strong, idles good, starts excellent and is starting to look almost respectable.

What I’ve done:

Replaced complete front carrier, had to cut the old one off cause the PO welded it all on. All three pieces!! : icon_ nono:

New air filter, spark plug, battery, battery cover, fender splash guards, handle bars, carburetor.

New/used light switches, left brake handle assembly, headlight covers, tail light, diff & brake crash guards,

All new fluids.

Rebuilt the starter.

Adjusted the clutch and she stopped jumping as soon as put in gear.

Wire brushed everything and rattle canned all the undercarriage.

It had none of the correct fender supports, so I’ve bought a couple of those "Pile of nuts and bolts" off the interweb and got most of them. Got a lot of OEM nuts and bolts that really made it easy putting her back together. The PO used whatever was hanging around to put her back together, including a couple of WOOD SCREWS. And he must have just thrown the OEM stuff away.

Anyways, I’m having difficulty with putting the fender supports back together. I’ve studied the parts seller graphics, but they don’t show the "What goes where" that good.

Can someone take a couple of pics under the fenders (both) and the splash guards that go behind the foot pegs, so I can, hopefully, figure it out.

Thanks for reading and the help.

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i forgot to post about a month ago i changed my coolant with great results.
i decided to do this because we have no idea of the quality or mixture of the stock coolant and i want to know where im at with my bike.
i just pulled the clamp on the lower radiator hose on the throttle side.
make sure you open the fill cap and let drain.
very easy to get at and take off.
after it drains i put the hose back on and filled it SLOWLY with long life coolant…SLOWLY to avoid air pockets as much as you can.
since my 570 is still new there was no need to get the rest of the coolant out of the system and that avoids air pockets and extra bull work.
i used straight concentrate coolant–not the premix 50/50.
let er run and top off..keep an aye on it for a couple rides and your good to go!!
i had to add very little to keep full. no air in system since i didn’t get into it too far,worked great.
coolant is a very important part of keeping you motor cool and running
good. hope this helps someone.
my bike runs great and i dont have heat problems or melting plastic:th_smiliedance: