I have a 2017 Grizz 700 w/ Camoplast tracks and am doing my first oil change. I ride in some extreme cold…temps of -30 at times. Will Amsoil Power Sports SAE 0w-40 be what I want for my engine oil and Amsoil Synthetic Gear Lube SAE 75W-90 be good in the diffs? Ive found I get some rough starts in the cold with the current Yamalube stuff or whatever they put in from Factory.
New forum user… Deciding between a 16 Kodiak and a 16 Grizzly. Just curious, how important/helpful is the eps system on the Grizzly. Asking mainly because I might be too big for the Kodiak. I’m overseas and wont be able to sit on each model to find out for a couple weeks. If in fact I’m not fitting well on the Kodiak, the Grizzly is my choice. Just wondering if EPS is worth the 1k addition to the price since i’ll already be paying more for the Grizzly. 6’5 rider @ 235 lbs
New forum user… Deciding between a 16 Kodiak and a 16 Grizzly. Just curious, how important/helpful is the eps system on the Grizzly. Asking mainly because I might be too big for the Kodiak. I’m overseas and wont be able to sit on each model to find out for a couple weeks. If in fact I’m not fitting well on the Kodiak, the Grizzly is my choice. Just wondering if EPS is worth the 1k addition to the price since i’ll already be paying more for the Grizzly. 6’5 rider @ 235 lbs
Hey guys. Just got a brand new ’16 850. Got about 25 miles on her now. I read some posts about people wishing they did there break in oil change sooner than 100 miles and I was curious if I should do it at 50 miles. Reason being is I am doing a hard break in to set them rings. I just want to keep the engine cleaned out from any metal debris sitting in there. Again a hard break in with some light pulls. I’m not beating the piss out of it. And anyone have any experience using Motul ATV oil and opinions about Amsoil? I’d like to try Motul because they are "supposedly" the best brand out there.
I see my speedo needle and mileage doesn’t work so I cleaned the Hall Sensor and it still is not working so I ordered a new one for $65.
My question is what makes this work as I only see the sensor that bolts onto the caliper and plugs into the speedo. There must be a magnet or other pick up item for the sensor to sense revolutions? I had another machine that was setup this way but needed a tiny magnet on the hub for the sensor to see revolutions .
Thought I’d do a short intro thread. I work as a farmer on some boggy rough ground in Ireland. I’ll be the first to admit the Kodiak is a lot rougher than it should be, and joining up here is the first step in rectifying that as much as possible. She was bought second hand to be a workhorse, not a race horse :wink2: I figure I’ll be leaning on all your knowledge for the next few months :smile2:
In the course of my work I have to get out onto some isolated wet bog. Twice last year I got stuck, managed to get the bike out myself but not without a lot of work. I’m trying to find a simple solution to this problem as I’ll always be solo when out there.
The 450 kodiak I currently ride isn’t equipped with a winch. The ground is very soft and wet even if it were, so anchoring something for the winch to pull on IS an issue – there are no trees out there.
I’ve been looking online at things like picket anchors, and lately the Bog Out type recovery rope that uses a wheel to pull the bike out. Still, anchoring is an issue.
So I thought what better place to ask than here, what do you guys use for an anchor in soft peat bog, when no trees, other bikes etc are available?
About 100 miles and it’s fairly dark again. Been changing it often since Ive no clue if the PO ever did. Perhaps the 27" Bighorn’s are wearing the wet clutch? Tried 1.5mm shim, hated it, too low. Maybe will try a .5 to at least get it close to original ratio.
Hi guys, I need help here. I have on 08 Big Bear 400, 4×4. It was showing signs of light smoke at start up. I knew it was going to need valve guide seals some day. My daughter rode it and sunk it in water pretty bad. The crankcase breather hose had come off and it filled the crank case with water. We towed back to the garage and drained everything. I changed the oil 3 times and the oils still has a hint of cream color to it. I cranked it up and it ran fine, road it down the road to mix up any remaining oil and then drained it again. I refilled it with oil and let it sit overnight. Cranked it up in the morning and now lots of gray/blue smoke for about 30 seconds then it’s fine. I checked the compression and it was 130 psi so I Pulled the head, replaced the valve guide seals, checked the valves for any damage, replaced the head gasket. Next morning same thing lots of smoke for 30 seconds or so. My knowledge tells me the only way oil can get into combustion area of the cylinder is through he valve seals. Maybe I installed the new ones wrong or one is defective? Ordered new seals and replaced them again, same issue the next morning, smokes like crazy for about 30 seconds then the 400 runs great. Is it possible that the head is cracked somewhere around the valves? Anybody got any ideas? Thanks
