Category Archives: Grizzly Engine & Transmission

Dalton Secondary Spring rate

Does any body know the secondary spring rate of the Dalton Clutch Kit for the Grizzly 660? It is a black spring with yellow markings on it.
I have searched the Internet and even tried emailing Dalton Industries directly, but got nothing. The contact email for Dalton did not even work.
Thanks in advance.

Coolant in oil

Hi guy’s!!! I have some kind of big trouble. Last summer i’ve change coolant to a long life coolant. So by the time the oil dipstick getting some red tint. So before start my rig up for the season i decided to make a oil sample and send it to Caterpillar lab. The result are that i have coolant in oil. Is any one of you have sommething to do before removing head and cylinder?????

03-08 660 front diff rebuild questions….

Ok so I need to rebuild my from diff. I have the FSM for the 02 year. It doesn’t have any shims or crush sleeves for the pinion gear. Is this the same in the 03-08 years?
I’m doing this myself and confident I can set it up properly nice I know what’s going on in there.
How does the pinion depth get adjusted if there’s no shims? Preload specs?
I see the backlash is there and I understand that part but from watching people setup jeep axles I know there’s sposed to be some sort of pinion adjustment.
Little light shedding info is needed before I tear into the case.
Cheers Rkcrwlr

03-08 660 front diff rebuild questions….

Ok so I need to rebuild my from diff. I have the FSM for the 02 year. It doesn’t have any shims or crush sleeves for the pinion gear. Is this the same in the 03-08 years?
I’m doing this myself and confident I can set it up properly nice I know what’s going on in there.
How does the pinion depth get adjusted if there’s no shims? Preload specs?
I see the backlash is there and I understand that part but from watching people setup jeep axles I know there’s sposed to be some sort of pinion adjustment.
Little light shedding info is needed before I tear into the case.
Cheers Rkcrwlr

Grizzly 660 Valve Train Issues?

Hey Guys, I am new to the forum, but a decently experienced ATV/mechanical guy. Started in High School rebuilding Honda 3 wheelers for extra cash. Went to college got my mechanical engineering degree; designed and built some mini Baja cars for the SAE mini Baja competition while at school. Now I buy, fix, and sell 4 wheelers as a hobby. It’s a great way to get to drive all different wheelers. I don’t get attached to much and everything is for sale.

So here is my story.
Bought a 2002 Grizzly 660 for $800. Was smoking badly (blue) and has 1500 HRS and 3000 miles. It was used on a small horse ranch to pull a manure spreader since new. Ran pretty decent when I bought it. Just figured one of the valve seals let loose.

Brought it home and tore it down. Lapped the valves, new rings, new valve seals, new gaskets, honed the cylinder, replaced the cam chain. The cam and rockers were decently worn, but I have put together many engines with worse. Put everything back together and runs like crap. Will idle fine but won’t take throttle and is smoking blue after it warms up. Figure the smoke just some oil left in the exhaust from the previous failure. Frustrated out it back in the garage and left it for a week. Came backnout to work on it and it will barely run at all and is smoking very badly white/black. Not sweet smell just straight gas. Pulled the carb and noticed the intake was full of gas. Float was misadjusted and pouring gas in the engine. Checked the oil and full of gas…. Ordered a new carb, changed the oil and filter twice. All traces of gas in the oil gone. Installed the new carb and still running very rich so rich it is smoking. Pulled the spark arrestor thinking it maybe plugged and it is sooty but I can see through it. Ran it without the arrestor and no change. Still doesn’t take throttle well. Sometimes!e I can get it to hook up. After I get it to rev and puke out the excess fuel, the smoke goes away for awhile however after idling for about 30 seconds it comes back. Seems to be super rich gray/white smoke smells like gas. Not blue, not super white or sweet smelling so don’t thinknit is leaking coolant. At this point I am at a loss. Thinking my issue is somewhere in the valve train but not sure. Lifting it up to the experts for help and some opinions

Milky oil help!

So first off I change my oil back in feburary, went for a short ride and came back checked the oil and it was milky…

I havent ridden the bike since but I have drained it probably 6 times now and it is still milky (oil only gets milky when you run the bike). The rad is completely full and isn’t down on coolant at all..

Originally I was set on a head gasket but since it’s not loosing coolant I don’t think it’s that. The bike wasn’t sunk at all so I never thought it to be water and if it was I figure the oil would be clean after 6 flushes

I appreciate any help at all !

Thanks

Milky oil help!

So first off I change my oil back in feburary, went for a short ride and came back checked the oil and it was milky…

I havent ridden the bike since but I have drained it probably 6 times now and it is still milky (oil only gets milky when you run the bike). The rad is completely full and isn’t down on coolant at all..

Originally I was set on a head gasket but since it’s not loosing coolant I don’t think it’s that. The bike wasn’t sunk at all so I never thought it to be water and if it was I figure the oil would be clean after 6 flushes

I appreciate any help at all !

Thanks

Do I have to drain my oil ? (Again)

So here’s my issue. I need to know if I can open the wet clutch housing without draining the oil on my 660. I’ve drained it once already after oil change only to find out the WC uses the same oil….. I did the WC slugs but they’re engaging too early. Now I gotta pull the WC and take out some weight. Can it be done by tipping bike over like 45 deg or 90 deg all the way over? ( without fuel or oil pouring out if the bike)
What about tipping bike back on it’s tail to replace the front engine coupler?
Cheers Rkcrwlr.