2010 700 Grizzly. Tried to start and pod lights blinking. Charged battery. Very rapid clicking, no start. Jumped from my truck, quad started. Everything seemed to work and function.Turned quad off and charged battery for 12 hours. Still very rapid clicking but no start.
Pod shows Er 1. When moving headlight switch different codes come up on pod. 12 shows on pod.
I was working on my 700 and forgot the key in the on position. The battery went completely dead. Is there anything that could burn out like a old point system? I put the 2 amp charger on the battery. Hoping all will be good battery etc.
Hey new here from Canada…. Just wondering if anyone out there has mounted a 6 inch Rigid double row on their handle bars??? I really like this setup but I’m concerned it will block my speedometer.
I’m looking at the PIAA handle bar mounts but they are too expensive to try and see if it will block.
Hi everyone – I am brand new to this forum due to desperation. I have a 2008 Grizzly 350 that blows the 15 amp ignition fuse once in a while. I have had 2 CDIs put in the machine in the last 2 years and have floated/disconnected the winch and oil cooler separately to try to isolate the problem. Any ideas what else is on that circuit??? Other symptoms when it blows are no starter, no neutral/reverse lights, no winch etc. Thanks in advance for any help. Steve
Hi everyone – I am brand new to this forum due to desperation. I have a 2008 Grizzly 350 that blows the 15 amp ignition fuse once in a while. I have had 2 CDIs put in the machine in the last 2 years and have floated/disconnected the winch and oil cooler separately to try to isolate the problem. Any ideas what else is on that circuit??? Other symptoms when it blows are no starter, no neutral/reverse lights, no winch etc. Thanks in advance for any help. Steve
Out riding tonight buddy noticed brake light wasn’t working but was staying bright. I always thougt it was bright but never paid it no mind. It was like it was stuck on. So we get back to his place checked the switches everything checked out. So we pull the rear rack to the tail light. he switches the plug ins from the machine to the light what do u know now it works properly. I look at them and the colors are matching. So it was plugged wrong from day one. Must of been colorblind when they was plugging them in or just messing around…lol
I have a 2008 600. It sat for 10 months. Turned the key and it was dead. Tried to jump, dead. I mean no dash, lights, nothing. Is the battery that dead or is it a fuse, computer chip/ Help!
So just had the bottom end rebuilt with stronger diff plate new(used cases), new oil pump, cam chain, new wet clutch assembly, wet clutch drum, one way bearing, new belt, etc etc. I was able to ride it this past weekend and the motor seemed good except for a constant stall and it is somewhat hard to re-fire without throttle manipulation sometimes. That seemed to be an existing trait ever since the exhaust 2r tip was installed so I do not believe that has any relation to the rebuild.
That being said, I also had the eps light on wanted to pull the codes to see if it was a simple cheap fix (ie relay, fuse, bad wire etc). I have no intention of spending 1200.00 to replace the unit. Anyway, I figured maybe while I had the radiator off and the rack removed I would entertain a "pod mod" to see if it would help correct the stall at idle and low speed. I started with the eps codes because I still wasn’t sure about the cutting of wires on the ecu harness. I seem to get different people saying different things on which wires to cut and or to move??? Yes mine is an 07 but it won’t allow me to access anything except diagnostic codes.
At any rate, I read the manual and pulled the codes by grounding the diagnostic male end on the eps module. All was well and I got what I believe is 41 and 21 (4 flashes, brief pause then a single, then about three seconds followed by 2 flashes and a brief pause then a single again). The pattern just repeated. I attempted to clear the codes per the manual and then turned the key off. I waited briefly and then turned power back on and attempted to start said machine (just briefly to see if the eps light would disappear since no radiator= no coolant), but it would not start. After about five seconds I get an ER-1 code, all warning lights on the right light up and no gear indicator lights come on. ER-1 is an ecu code (I had not tampered or messed with the ecu at all and it was just running fine before I pulled the eps codes). Since then I have cleaned and dielectric greased all connections, including the pod and the ecu and the eps, but it still won’t reset. Main fuse, eps and starter relay fuses are all good.
HOW DOES PULLING EPS CODES PER THE MANUAL CAUSE THE ECU TO BE FRIED???
Sorry so long winded but if I needed a break before I took out the .308 and put the Grizzly out of my misery!
The other day I was mudding and I went to lock the differentials on my new(used) 660 and when it locked the engine started sputtering, I’d seen that happen before on a short. The min I took it out of differential lock it ran normal. I’m going to check the wiring harness for short but any way to manually test the servo motors? I guess I could disconnect the motors and lock it and see if it does it still and would confirm if it’s the motor or wiring?? Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
I recently installed a LED light bar from Mictuning and wanted to give a quick review of the product. We do a lot of fishing and end up driving back at night. The stock headlights were not giving me enough light to feel comfortable on the trails so I decided to install a light. First off, here are some details about the light:
MICTUNING SR-Mini Series 11” 50W Single Row CREE LED Light Bar COMBO Spot Flood 5000lm 500m Visibility
· 50W (10pcs x 5W Each high intensity CREE LEDs)
· Operating Voltage: 10-30 DC
· Dimensions: 11 x 1.6 x 3.1 inches
· Beam: Spot 10 degree & Flood 20 degree Combo
· Luminous flux: 5000 LM
· Waterproof rate: IP 68
· Color Temperature: 6000K (White)
· Lens: PC (scratch-proof)
· Material: Diecast aluminum housing;
· Mounting Bracket: Stainless steel bracket,screws 360 degree all around the housing
· Lifespan: 50000 hours
· Weight: 2.2 lbs
The light came with 2 sets of brackets but had to make a piece for the brackets to mount on. I used a 1.5” wide by 1/8” thick piece of flat stock aluminum, cut it to size, drilled the necessary holes and finally painted it black. I removed the front bolts on the front rack, slid the aluminum underneath and reinstalled the rack bolts. Finally, I installed the light and mounts to the aluminum. I had ordered a wiring harness and it made installation very easy. I tapped into the aux power supply to send power to the switch.
Even at 50watts, the light is extremely bright compared to the stock beams. The construction of the light was solid and looks well-constructed. I’m very happy with the light so far. It has made night riding a non-issue. I’ll update this review when I have some more hours on the light. Let me know if you have any questions.
