Last season I removed the front hubs & spindle / strut assys. on a "new to me" 2001 Magnum 4 X 4 so that I could inspect the bearings for a piece of mind.
All parts were thoroughly cleaned & found to be good condition. The seal wear sleeves on the spindle / strut assys. were also in good condition(no grooves) so I just reassembled everything using new seals(hub & axle both). The seal lips were lubed & bearings set properly during installation. Hubs were re-filled with Polaris Demand Drive fluid to the 4 / 8 o’clock position.
I took it out for multiple rides last fall with no issues but after the first ride this season, I noticed a puddle of hub oil on floor beside the tire. The oil is clearly coming from the wheel hub seal – item # 3 shown below.
I haven’t disassembled yet to inspect what has caused the leak but I thought I’d drop a quick post to see if there are any special tricks on these front ends that I may have been missed during the assy. stage? BTW, I used parts from the dealer, which were CR seals IIRC?
Trying to get the brakes working up to par on this 94 Trail Boss 250, two wheel drive. This my first time working on this type of brakes, yes newbie. If I may, I have several questions. First off, broke off the bleeder on the rear caliper. Moved to the front brakes. Lubricated the bleeder , left it sit awhile. Went to open it, no way would it move. First off, was it a true bleeder valve, or something else. ??
Are the bleeders screwed in or pressed into body of caliper?
Two front caliper has the same fitting. Again, lubed them, still did not budge.
Using a 1/4" wrench for removal. Read repair manual, it said nothing about how to open bleeder. What direction to open, counterclockwise, I would assume. Any insight would be great.
thanks
So like a month ago, I cleaned the carb on my yellow 400. Nothing was changed, just cleaned. Slide moves freely. When I reinstalled it, it had a wicked stumble around 3500 RPM. I dropped the needle 4 settings and it helped, but it still did it. I cleaned the air filter, and it does it even less. Am I on the right track? It sounds like it hits rev limiter, then it’ll rev up. Most of the time it’ll run fine now but it’ll still stumble 20% of the time.
Have 92 Trail Boss 250 that has 2 separate switches, one for lights, kill and start and the other guessing for override/reverse switch. Does anyone know if a switch like for 96 Trail Boss 250 be used, which incorporates the switches into one unit, be used to replace the existing switches?
Have to replace the 92 switch anyway, still the kill portion is stuck and will not move.
Hey yall. Recently purchased a 02 sportsman 700. I rode it around for about an hour testing it out. Went to go on a long ride and on my way there the over heating light came on. Turned around headed back home. When i got there it started hissing and anti freeze started coming out of the overflow. Looked like it was boiling inside of it. If anyone could help me with whats wrong that would be awesome. Thanks.
I recently took a Trailboss on a trade with a buddy of mine, he’s had it for a while and he’s always had troubles starting it, aaaand now it’s become my problem lol
It’s a ’98 250 Trailboss, automatic, 2WD, the battery is no good so I’ve been using the pull start. It used to start up no problem, but once in a blue moon, you could try pull starting it for an hour and nothing. Well the problem seems to be getting worse, in the last week I’ve only had it running twice.
But sometimes it fires up perfect, it sat outside overnight for 13 hours, and started up fine on the first pull without the choke, and then an hour later, I couldn’t get it started.
It sounds like it’s pulling over fine, I replaced the sparkplug, the old one was wet when I took it out so it seems to be getting it’s fuel.
So to recap:
Pull start only
Sometimes fires up on the first pull and runs A+
Most of the time it wont fire up.
Wheelers aren’t exactly my expertise, I’m more of a car and truck guy, so I’m a rookie when it comes to working on wheelers lol
I had to pull the clutch off of my Sportsman are replace the buttons as they were shot. I did preload it when I put it back together however it now only has 1 gear which I believe to be high gear. The spring is in the correct holes but not sure if the spring is going in the correct direction. Does it go clockwise down or counter clockwise down? Or is that even the problem. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
2 questions about a 1997 xpress 400 2×4 with a rebuilt 250 motor
1st-Brake lever feels a little spongy. Takes awhile for ATV to come to a stop. I replaced the pads. The old ones were actually in pieces. I installed new wheel bearings. I bleed an entire bottle through lines. The rear/foot brake pedal and rotor are missing. Pads and caliper are there but don’t move… Only have front brakes. Is this normal since I only have front brakes? Every now and then I can hear a squishing/air sound from master cylinder. I don’t see air bubbles in reservoir though. Rotors are a little rough on one side of both rotors…
2nd-Loud whining sound when moving. Doesn’t do it with rear end on blocks only when front is in motion. Tires are bald. New ones ordered. Belt had a small worn area. Replaced with an old belt I had that was in better shape, small cracks between ridges is all (dry rot a little).
I have a new to me Polaris 250 trail Boss 2 wheel drive ATV. With clutch cover off, I can see the driven pulley rotate at idle. I have the idle speed down as far as it will go to keep the engine running. Which is not a very fast rpm.
Not having a machine like this before, doesn’t the driven pulley need not to be rotating to shift into forward or reverse? What is normal for the driven pulley at idle, not to be rotating? I don’t want to mess up the transmission.
thanks
HI guys. I picked up a scrambler that has been sitting for awhile and trying to work out the bugs.
Ok so it’s a intermittent problem. at first it was running ok but now when I try to rev it up in any gear it doesn’t get Far past idle. There has been a few times it will take off with plenty of power then back to idle. carb is clean. Compression is good. I am not sure if it is a ETC problem. Is there a way to bypass for testing? one of the times I hit the override and it took off but it only did that one time..
