Hey there folks. I have a 2004 sportsman that when I turn the key nothing happens. When I meter the wire from key switch to solenoid and turn key I’m getting 9 volts. I think there should be 12 so what could be the issue?

Was looking into the rox risers and the combo kits for the grizz are sold out in both packages ( 2015 down and 2016 up)
Has anyone called to see what’s up? I tried after work the other day but due to the times zones they are closed by then.

Have a storage seat for sale. Quad has 15 miles, so this is lightly used and in great condition.

Asking $200

Thanks, Joe

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So today started out great. Went to a local MX/trail place and had a blast jumping and riding the trails. went into the sand area and the chain kept popping off. never really had an issue with it before. Before we knew it, chain popped, and wrapped up by the front sprocket and oil was EVERYWHERE. Get towed back and the shifter was sitting a little funny. turns out that the whole corner by the shifter cracked…:grumble::wtf1: anyone have any ideas on if this can be welded? Already looked up new bottom end or just the case, but if i dont have to spend mucho $$$$ I would rather not. Any ideas?

I have a 2007 TRX400ex that runs fine doesn’t give me any issues but when you rev it high out of no ware it makes this high pitched vibration noise I checked the oil and looked for things to be running but came up with nothing any ideas sounds like it’s in the motor

I attached a audio of the sound

Thanks

I have a 2011 can am outlander 650 max xt. I went for a ride last weekend and today was the first time I was actually able to check the thing over and I was checking all the fluids.

I opened up the rear dif and it was good but when I opened the front dif oil started coming out (making me believe water was in there) so I’m just gunna change the front and rear dif oil just in case.

I hear people saying to use 75/90 in both front and rear and then I see 75/90 in the front and 75/140 in the rear. What should I use?

I found that my outlander temperature light came on and in my discovery of why, I found that the radiator temperature sensor would not enable the fan.
In my search I found that the engine temperature sensor would show weird resistance from about 400 ohms to zero depending on how hot the motor got.

I purchased this for the radiator:
HEAT SENSOR SWITCH FOR BOMBARDIER CAN AM 709200089 709200003 715900095

I got a new engine sensor from eBay:
CAN AM OEM COOLANT TEMP SWITCH 05-08 OUTLANDER 420897938

I have two questions

1. Since I put the radiator sensor in, and drove the outy until the temperature switched the fan on, I turned off the engine and found that the fan would run for several minutes. I did test the new sensor and it would turn on around 200F. Is this normal for the fan to run so long..

2. The temperature warning light no longer comes on so i tested the engine temperature in boiling water to 220 F and it would not switch.
What temperature does the engine have to be to switch the sensor on and is it variable resistance or closed circuit?

Okay folks, like the title says My bike won’t start.
First let me say I have read the stickies and read through other threads and posts.
The bike is a 2014 sporty 400h.o. with 44-48hrs on it. I keep both of my bikes on a dual bank battery tender. Haven’t started them up in a month or two. Today I went to move them out of the garage. My bike fired right up and I drove it out. Jumped on the wife’s 400, turned the key the screen lit up, went to start it heard a click then lost all power. I checked the battery with a multimeter and it read 13.?v So the battery is good. Turned the key again, screen came on but it flashed and the battery light came on and flashed in unison with the screen. I plugged the gator clips into my bike and ran a jumper cable the the 400, it lit up, turned the key to start, it clicked then died again however also blew the fuse on my bikes quick connect.
Chime in folks, need some input.
Thanks

Hi All,
Newbie to the forum and unfortunately have spent hours upon hours trying to find the answer to the exact issue I am having. So here it goes…

2003 Polaris Sportsman 90 electrical is dead. 1st, a little background to what happened. The ATV was working fine, started up fine using the electric start and it took off and hit the hitch of a truck. Might have been a stuck open carb but I have not been able to replicate it since. Broke the fake light in the cowl.
Since then, there is no electrical at all.
No horn, tail light and no electric start.
It does however kickstart fine, usually 1st or 2nd try, but when running the horn and tail light still do not work at all.
I have bypassed all of the safety switches with jumper wires (wrist tether and brake switch)
I put a brand new battery in measuring 12.71 volts.
When the bike is running the red run/kill will turn it off. So will the key.
So, before I start dumping money into this thing, wondering if anyone can help me isolate probable cause and prioritize replacement components.
I am getting ready to sell it and want it in top working order prior to.
Any information or ideas would be greatly appreciated!!!
I am at wits end!