All posts by dstech
Parts not available?
Ok, lets talk winch and Snow Plow… (again) lol
But I also seen a few others that are right about the same price or a bit higher, and some that is way up their in price.
Now what I am wanting is a good work ATV. Not a Look at me toy. So I am not going to spend the money and get one that looks HOT and pay 1200.00 plus for it.
But I would also like to know what you all think about the Warn, KFI, QuadBoss(Do not see very many listed on line so I bet that is one I do not look at a lot.)
I wanted a Ramsey winch as I once work for them, but they do not make a mount for my ride.
Then the Snow Plow, I am just lost their…. I am not sure what way to go. I did see a KFI kit that looked nice but as I do not know a thing about them. Not sure if I need a mid mount or a front mount. My thinking says I need the mid mount. and the front mount will put more wear on my Kodiak. But again, I am just not sure. That is why I am here asking the ones that know way more about this then me.
My Bike is a 2005 Kodiak YFM450FSE 4×4 Special Edition with IRS..
What I am going to do with it is Some play, but to use on the land for work. Been having mild winters here for the last few years, but I think we are due for a very bad one very soon and I want to be set up for it when it hits.
ongoing rear brake issue, hard to press brake lever then normal then hard…
It started when i was riding, the rear brakes locked all the sudden, couldnt press the left brake lever at all. so i unscrewed the banjo bolt quickly just to let enough pressure out and it was operable again.
i bled the brakes later. while riding all day, the brake lever would be hard then soft normal, then hard, then normal. brakes are almost locked when the lever is hard but can still spin.
First i bought a new master cylinder. still same symptoms, all day it would get hard then soft..
I have now replaced both rear calipers , bled the lines. the lever is still hard sometimes and normal sometimes. Even when just parked. i would sometimes press the lever and its normal, then sometimes its hard nearly locked.
what the hell? replace the rubber hoses?
Anybody still riding Predators?
urgent, need help, engine troubles, burning oil
Almost got stuck up in the mtn this weekend.my buddy said i had smoke coming out of the exhaust, bluish, and mostly when i let go of the throttle. When we got to 22 miles into the trail, i checked the dipstick and it was completely dry.
2 issues. oil is seeping out thru the left case cover due to me not putting a new gasket when i took it off. parts of the gasket where on motor and parts on the cover.
second, the chain has soo much slack, is this normal? could this be why its burning oil? i did put a hmf exhaust with the quiet core in. never did the efi controller, i ordered it now however.
i need help on this, need to fix this asap. thanks in advance
where is the chain tensioner?
Aftermarket front clutch for my 500HO?
New Primary Drive Clutch EBS 1998 2005 Polaris Sportsman 500 Engine Braking | eBay from company called "Parts Ace" anybody got anything good or bad to say about them or the clutch?
The rebuild kit from EPI + weights & special tools is gonna cost me that or more.
Sent from my KFTHWI using Tapatalk
1986 350 4×4 Fourtrax Fuel Pump issue
I am thinking the voltage regulator box might be bad, letting too much voltage to the pump when the rpm’s increase. I hate to by another pump just to burn it up. Without it, I can not start it to test the voltage coming to the pump. So I guess I will have to buy one anyways to do this check. I am assuming I should see a consistent 12VDC to the pump, no matter what the RPMs are?
I was also reading about possibly just putting in a vacuum pump instead. I think someone wrote a 1980 Mazda fuel pump is a vacuum pump that fits right in the same bracket.
Thanks for any assistance/guidance.
What do Grizzly riders do on Sundays in the fall
:rocker:
2009 Polaris Ranger Crew Starting Problem(s)
Other things I’ve done: I’ve checked the codes and Error code 22 displays. "Short to ground" or "Battery short". 4 position Fuse panel test 9.5 volts at the top fuse, 0 volts at #2, 12.5 at #3 and 12.5 at #4. This seems very weird.
I have tried pulling the negative lead off the battery and using a 12v test light to determine if there is a short but no light. Seems I must have a short somewhere but the test light to battery terminal (+ or -) shows no light. Thus no short? How can the starter perform a bench test just fine but when it is hooked up only to the battery wires (+ and -) at the rear seat location (but not actually placed in the starter hole) it will not operate? Also big arch when using battery jumper cables again leading me to believe there is a short somewhere.
Any ideas or suggestions. Very frustrated at this point.