Can anyone help me I’m after timing info/ torque settings for a 455 diesel cheers Ade

ok I have a 2011 polaris 850 xp it has stock 26x8x14 and26x10 x14 I’m looking at a set of kend bear claw htr 26x11x14 and 26x9x14
will the extra inch cause me any problems? on the stock wheels

ok I have a 2011 polaris 850 xp it has stock 26x8x14 and26x10 x14 I’m looking at a set of kend bear claw htr 26x11x14 and 26x9x14
will the extra inch cause me any problems? on the stock wheels

Should have kept the ones I had. If you are upgrading your wheels and and have a set please let me know. Looking for a set of ITP 12×7 aluminum wheels. Scratches and gouge marks ok. Not looking for perfect or new. Would prefer C-series. Thanks

Should have kept the ones I had. If you are upgrading your wheels and and have a set please let me know. Looking for a set of ITP 12×7 aluminum wheels. Scratches and gouge marks ok. Not looking for perfect or new. Would prefer C-series. Thanks

Been riding dirt bikes and quads for 30 years and had never gone out on my own, until yesterday. Had a couple riders lined up to go but they cancelled last minute. I figured that I had never had any issues in the past, so I said screw it, I’m going anyways. The first two hours were great, then this happened…

Castle nut came off the A-arm and there I was, all by myself in the middle of the bush. Limped it in reverse for about 2 kms and stashed it in the bush where I figured I could get my truck in to retrieve it. Walked out of the bush and hitchhiked 20 kms back to my truck.

Quite the ride. Had water over my hood and half way up the windshield.

I’ll tear into the Griz tonight and see what kind of damage was done. Pretty sure it’s going to need an axle. Moral of the story, when GC members tell you to check castle nuts and cotter pins on a regular basis, you should really listen to them.

Ok Im trying to figure out exactly what I just bought. Its a 2012. According to the 2012 Polaris Catalog I saw online, it must be an XP? It has the Fire Blue paint, the XP body, digital speedo and EPS, says limited edition on the back bumper bar. Just no XP sticker on it. I love it so far. Love the paint. Curious whats the deal here. If its not an XP what is it missing from the XP version?

Looking for a little clarification on this one. Thanks guys.

and one of my pair 😀

Hello all. New to this forum. I just purchased a Blue 2012 300 4X2 last week. It only had 5 hours ran so it had set in the garage a lot unused. This is my first ATV so I am a complete noob though I have worked on other toys.

On to my problem. When I purchased it the rear brake did not work, I just assumed it needed adjustment. This model has a single disc and caliper just left of center on the rear axle. I bled the system and initially all was working as it should. After about an hour the rear was spongy again and not working. Figured out pretty quickly that brake fluid is leaking from around the piston on the caliper itself. My guess is blown seal on the caliper piston, possibly dried out due to lack of use?

I have not broken down the caliper yet to remove the piston but I cannot seem to find any o-ring information on the rear unit. I can only find a reference to the complete caliper to purchase for $215-$260. Other models and years have broken down schematics for all parts including the o-rings but for some reason nothing on this year. I hate to spend $200+ to replace o-rings that are less than $10 for other models (and might be the same part). I found part # 3GD-W0047-00-00 that points to several 2012 and 2013 model o-ring sets but nothing for the 300 model. Any thoughts?

Hello all. New to this forum. I just purchased a Blue 2012 300 4X2 last week. It only had 5 hours ran so it had set in the garage a lot unused. This is my first ATV so I am a complete noob though I have worked on other toys.

On to my problem. When I purchased it the rear brake did not work, I just assumed it needed adjustment. This model has a single disc and caliper just left of center on the rear axle. I bled the system and initially all was working as it should. After about an hour the rear was spongy again and not working. Figured out pretty quickly that brake fluid is leaking from around the piston on the caliper itself. My guess is blown seal on the caliper piston, possibly dried out due to lack of use?

I have not broken down the caliper yet to remove the piston but I cannot seem to find any o-ring information on the rear unit. I can only find a reference to the complete caliper to purchase for $215-$260. Other models and years have broken down schematics for all parts including the o-rings but for some reason nothing on this year. I hate to spend $200+ to replace o-rings that are less than $10 for other models (and might be the same part). I found part # 3GD-W0047-00-00 that points to several 2012 and 2013 model o-ring sets but nothing for the 300 model. Any thoughts?

Hey what’s up everybody. My name is Steve I recently bought a brand new 2016 grizzly and find it about time join the clubs and forums now.
Do any members have the new 16 any issues how are they enjoying them?
I recently after putting on 700 trouble free Kms starting having a issue which I can’t find much info on or about the new 16 machines. The fuel vent started dripping fuel I only noticed it because I started looking around because the fuel Oder was so strong. It was dripping a drip every 5 seconds the machine was three quarters full and I wasn’t going up or down anything steep. The vent had the fuel dripping onto the rear skid plate which was pooling fuel In the channels of the plate. It even continued to drip as I left it idling.
I had to go back to camp and now everytime I try to ride it happens hot or cold. Even with the tank half empty so I don’t think its sloshing up into the vent although, After looking closer I really don’t like the new design of the tank most specifically where the filler neck is located and vent opening on neck. If I shake the machine slightly with under half a tank and with cap off the fuel does Slosh up into the neck badly right into the vent opening Behind the clear plastic thing that’s inside comes up the neck. that I think is designed for the vent? I didn’t design or engineer this thing so Iam not sure what the purpose of that is or what it is.

The machine is stock I haven’t relocated or put any filter on the end of it because of the location. I have found info on older machines the fuel vapour would condense in the line and turn back to liquid state but the line is short and this is a constant drip even when the tank is three quarters empty engine cold. I believe they even are a smaller capacity tank the the previous models and maybe the rollover module thing is messed up or something. Now Iam kinda regreting this purcase with it running so hot the cooling fan is on 90% of the time, and to solve that I have to buy a 400 dollar with shipping fuel controller and cheap air filter that is falling apart otter seal is coming unglued from filter body and barely seals which I have had to stick a wedge between the box to press the filter against the box now this!
Any thoughts,suggestions, questions