Hey all. I don’t know if anyone else has seen these. But the last time I looked we could not get replacement shoes for our 700 Wet clutches. Saw these on fleabay today
Hey all. I don’t know if anyone else has seen these. But the last time I looked we could not get replacement shoes for our 700 Wet clutches. Saw these on fleabay today
All of you with a winch mounted on your Honda ATV.
Do you have a Honda winch?
Did you install it yourself?
Or do you have a after market
Did you stick with a 2500 lbs or go larger?
Thanks for any input.
I run tracks in the winter. I have gotten myself into some very deep powder conditions. having tracks will definitely tempt one to try and venture beyond what is probably passable. I noticed every time I did get stuck, I was usually in a position where a rear winch was needed. After some research I found a device called Reverse-a-roller. It’s a simple device that allows for the winch line to be run underneath the atv. A redirect. Neat but not what I was looking for. I want maximum pulling power so I decided to build a hitch mount. The hitch mounts I saw online weren’t sleek and low-pro enough. So I built a custom one.
The winch I went with is a Warn ProVantage 4500 lb. For some reason Amazon had it at $150 cheaper than the 3500 so I opted for the bigger winch. That meant needing a larger battery. Thank you for all who have posted on here about what would fit as a stock replacement. It lead me to find Odyssey.
After some measuring I ordered an Odyssey 925L. It was a bit frustrating to find out that the 925 is literally 1/8" to wide to fit between the seat frame rails. I said fuck it and spun it to the side, chopped some wiring and built some new wiring (used all tinned copper marine grade with heat shrink on the ends). I had to build a new battery tray to hold it in.
I’ll get some better pictures that details the work but figured I’d share what I’ve got so far. If anyone has questions about the install please feel free to message me or a leave comment.
I’ve tried to research how to do this but can’t find specifics answers for the G2 frame. Anyway I have a 2013 Renegade 1000 with a torn rear outer boot. I’ve torn the machine down and separated the axle from the diff, there’s just not enough room to get the axel out to work on it. Most of the posts I’ve found are for a G1 frame that say to drop the rear diff to remove the axle. I can’t do this because it hits the diff guard welded below it. Second method involves removing the trailing arm, which is what I’m thinking I have to do. But from what I’ve read that involves replacing 100 dollars worth of bearings/seals. So my question is there any other way? If I do remove the trailing arm do I really need to replace the bearings and seals at 100 bucks a pop? Seems crazy to do all this work and pay 100 bucks on replacement bearings just to replace a boot.
Assuming it’s carburetor issues my Grizzly will not run well unless it’s full choke no matter how warm it is if it’s fully choked I can get about three quarter of throttle response if it’s not choked at all once I push the throttle past halfway it makes no difference any help
I’m having a problem with my 2×4/4×4 selector switch. I can switch from 2×4 to 4×4 at just about any speed. The problem that I’m having is that when I got back to 2×4 it won’t disengage out of 4×4 unless I slow down to 3-5mph, then it will go into 2×4. I just bought the quad recently and switched it in and out of 2×4 to 4×4 and back at all speeds and never had an issue until now. The tires are all spinning at the same speed. I’m riding up and down my road when this is happening. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You
Finally got a new pinion ring in my rear differential on my 1987 Big Bear 350… got everything back together and slapped the diff back on. Went to insert the axle and bam, it will not slide in without a lot of force and a BFH.
I checked the splines and they seamed okay… also noticed that the splines of the rear diff were spinning a lot slower than the front tires when I had it running.
What the heck did I do wrong? Why won’t my axle slide back in? Why isn’t the rear and front diffs running at the same speeds?
Guys, Im in need of some help. I let my 2002 450 s set up for too long and wound up with a stuck float. This thing was running like a scalded dog when I put it away, but a move put a kabosh on any riding for a while so shame on me I know….
Heres what I did:
1. Took carb apart replaced jets, cleaned out
2. Drained the gas tank and filled it up with fresh gas.
3. I set the pilot screw to 2 1/2 turns out from lightly seated.
4. Changed Spark Plug.
Now when I start it (1/2 choke) it seems to run great……. when I close choke completely and try and give it gas it kills the engine. This goes on for about 5 min. Once its warmed up if I hit the throttle and rev it up I get a little back fire on the way up and a poo inducing gunshot like backfire on the way down. After a hearing test and a change of drawers (AKA 5 minutes or so later running at idle) It revs up and comes back down with minimal indication anythings wrong. Ive also notice that if I pull choke out completely the engine revs up high but with some audible popping from the exhaust. I pulled the plug after riding for a few hours and the strap above the electrode is white/gray. My problem is that it takes a while to warm up even on a warm day, which it didnt seem to need before the carb clean. The throttle killing the engine is new, and the backfiring on rev down is new. Any ideas on what to adjust and where. I suck as a mechanic and hope yall can help me get this thing running like she was.
