I know people have found ways that work to change the OEM oil filters from their machines, you know the ones that no wrench out there seems to fit just perfect? 2520799 is the one that I’m referring to myself because that’s what fits both my 850 and 1000. While on amazon I happened to stumble across the equivalent to that filter in K&N and it has a handy 17mm nut on the bottom of the filter, which I think will come in very handy for installing and removing filters.
I know most peoples view on K&N air filters in ATV’s but their oil filters should be ok right? Anyone use these? By the way K&N part number KN-198
I know people have found ways that work to change the OEM oil filters from their machines, you know the ones that no wrench out there seems to fit just perfect? 2520799 is the one that I’m referring to myself because that’s what fits both my 850 and 1000. While on amazon I happened to stumble across the equivalent to that filter in K&N and it has a handy 17mm nut on the bottom of the filter, which I think will come in very handy for installing and removing filters.
I know most peoples view on K&N air filters in ATV’s but their oil filters should be ok right? Anyone use these? By the way K&N part number KN-198
Hey guys im new to the forum and im in the process of fixing up an 87 250x. One thing i cant figure out on the rear caliper everything is cleaned and lubed and the pins slide nice and easy. The problem is when i mount the caliper on the disk and apply the rear brake the brake pad opposite to the caliper piston goes crooked so only the top of the pad touches the disk. Am i missing something? i have searched but haven’t found anything. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hey guys sorry for the noob post, I found a deal on some scrambler rims I’d like to jump on for spares but I want to be 100% sure they’ll fit before i commit to buying. From what I understand the Scrambler 850XP & Sportsman 850XP share the same factory wheel specs, but i want to make sure there’s no difference in offset that would make them incompatible with each other.
Anyone know if a 1000 gear box will fit on an outty 800 gen2 frame? I acquired a 1000 box and want to install the 14 percent reduction gears. Stripped splines on my 800 box
Last weekend I broke my RH rear inner CV. So I was looking at axle options. I am running stock size HTRs. (my sig is needs to be updated) Are Rhinos good enough or should I look into High Lifter DHTs. I know I dont need Gorrila but I would like somthing thats at least little Better than OEM. It seems I can find Love and Hate reviews for both RHINO and DHT.
I have a 2009 sportsman 850 xp. Now this is my first 4×4 quad. I know that the 4×4 doesn’t activate until the rear tires spin. I feel like when I was in the mud and I was stuck it took longer than it should for the front to engage. Is this normal or do I have a problem?
I’m in Australia and am rebuilding my uncle’s old Big Red. He’s had it from new and it has lived it’s whole life down the beach, used as a fishing quad.
As you can see she needs some serious work. It still starts and runs good, just doesn’t stop (all brakes are stuffed) and is about to snap in half!
I don’t want to sink a whole lot of money in into it so the rebuild will be slow and quite boring compared to some of the mud runners on here, but here are my plans:
Chassis:
Completely strip
Repair frame
Modify racks
Sand blast and 2 pack paint everything
Hot dip galvanise the wheels
Replace bearings, seals, joints etc as needed
Rebuild brakes
Build a set of floor boards
New front tyres
New handlebars and grips
Install light bar
Want to lift it somehow, preferably with 300EX shocks as the ones on it are stuffed
Widen the track
Engine/Drivetrain:
Replace clutch
Rebuild carb
Inspect diffs and rebuild as necessary
I want to hone it and re-ring it but if I do that I might as well bore it and put a 10.25:1 piston in it and if I do that I might as well put a cam in it and if I do that I should do the head up and the timing chain and the…. So jury’s out on that one so far haha, and I can do all of that later with the engine in the frame if I really want to…
Some pics of the tear-down process beginning are below:
I’m in Australia and am rebuilding my uncle’s old Big Red. He’s had it from new and it has lived it’s whole life down the beach, used as a fishing quad.
As you can see she needs some serious work. It still starts and runs good, just doesn’t stop (all brakes are stuffed) and is about to snap in half!
I don’t want to sink a whole lot of money in into it so the rebuild will be slow and quite boring compared to some of the mud runners on here, but here are my plans:
Chassis:
Completely strip
Repair frame
Modify racks
Sand blast and 2 pack paint everything
Hot dip galvanise the wheels
Replace bearings, seals, joints etc as needed
Rebuild brakes
Build a set of floor boards
New front tyres
New handlebars and grips
Install light bar
Want to lift it somehow, preferably with 300EX shocks as the ones on it are stuffed
Widen the track
Engine/Drivetrain:
Replace clutch
Rebuild carb
Inspect diffs and rebuild as necessary
I want to hone it and re-ring it but if I do that I might as well bore it and put a 10.25:1 piston in it and if I do that I might as well put a cam in it and if I do that I should do the head up and the timing chain and the…. So jury’s out on that one so far haha, and I can do all of that later with the engine in the frame if I really want to…
Some pics of the tear-down process beginning are below:
Hi, everyone I’m new to the site and need some help. My problem starts like this, I was riding my 03 grizz all day and then stopped to eat lunch and when I went out to start the bike it had a hard time to start, so I ran the bike for the rest off the day with no problems, the day after it took a long time to start and when it did start the engine started to pop or studder until the engine got warm then it purrs like kitten. I changed spark plug and gas and still the same, the problem is getting worse and need some advice, thanks.
