I have a 84 TRX 200 that I bounced a valve in. first thought it was because it ticked pretty good. after further investigation. bought a small boar camera from amazon for $12 and low and behold perfect valve crescent moon.
options I have: Low buck if possible
leave it and run it and hope it is ok. still runs decent just ticks
I have a spare almost complete motor. head that is on it the exhaust bolt is stripped out pretty bad. thinking about taking valves out of this head and putting into current head on bike. would need to get seal kit.
with this option what seals would I need to complete this?
top end kit,
valve guilds
what else
any other options out there?
spare motor was missing parts and not sure what else it is missing. head is already pulled off of spare motor. bike is currently in running status. not so much riding status though.
i have a dyno jet commander V and a auto tune I had it on my 1000 sportsman highlifter it worked very well you can adjust fuel ratios and it will keep the engine in that range I richened mine up to keep the exhaust from melting the plastic I had no plastic melt on the bike not to mention the throttle response was very impressive it can be used on the 1000 and 850 sportsman or scrambler
I sold the bike and bought a rzr (highlifter was to low geared for me and my use) it had only 100 miles on it when I took this off and sold the bike
part #19-019 for commander V
AT-200 AUTO TUNE
had over 700.00 in it when I bought it have all the paper work original boxes and ect. would take 300.00 for it thanks I forget to get on here so just call or text me 660 247 2005
I’ve got a buddy who is looking to buy a TRX400EX from his neighbor… it’s a 2007 and cosmetically in great shape.
So… it’s all sounding great, but then he tells us that the shifter is broken and needs to be welded. Over the phone, I’m thinking it’s just the lever.. easy to fix, just replace it. When I got there, I found the lever was already off the quad, and that the splined shaft was actually broken… sheared off where it necks down between the inside and outside splines. The seller (not too mechanically inclined) thought the end that was broken off could be welded back onto the shaft.
We verified that it seems to shift just fine by gripping what’s left of the spindle with vice grips, so hopefully all the damage is external and limited to the shaft end.
We called a local Honda dealer and they said the labor to replace the shift spindle would be about $900… part not included.
At this point, we’re evaluating whether to move forward with this or not. My buddy and I have both done engine work on bikes and cars, but not so far as cracking the case and having a go at the insides… mostly just top-end work and external maintenance/repairs.
Given time, is this something could be handled by non-pros like us? I’ve been looking over the service manual, but it’s not precisely clear how much disassembly needs to happen to get to this part. Pretty sure the engine needs to come out, but can that part of the case be split without removing the head?
Regardless… his neighbor seems motivated to sell. It’s just been parked in his garage for a number of years since it broke. I suggested to my buddy to offer him $1000 under going rate ($2200-2700 around here)… at that price, he could always just pay to have it fixed, though maybe for less that what a dealer would charge. If he decides to do the repair work himself, then he got a great quad at an amazing price.
Hey Guys,
I have a 2006 TRX300EX. It was always tough to start, but once running it was fine. After some research it seems the fix is to adjust the valves. Well I went ahead and adjusted the valves. It started right up after that, sounded good. Then I went on to adjust the idle speed to get a better/higher idle. Well after turning it back and fourth several times, now it doesn’t start. Any ideas? Is there a way to set it back to default to get it started?
Hey guys, Ive got a problem. I recently drained oil out of crankcase, and then I refilled it and when I try to start the Grizzly I hear a groaning sound as I’m pushing the starter button, and when I let go of the ignition button when the engine kicks on, it groans again! And the engine doesn’t stay on, it dies after 3 sec! Also I smell a oily smell as Im starting it, ALSO oil vanishes in the crankcase (I make sure the oil is full before I start it) and there’s nothing on the dipstick; I do dip a screwdriver in the whole to check if there’s oil and there is.
pls help
mofest