Hey fellas. I have a left lower bent a arm. Out on my ride today every once in a while I would hear this grinding noise. With a better inspection the disk brake is slowly cutting its way thru the a arm. Not good…
Should I find a stock a arm or buy new arched a arms from super atv. $340 Canadian shipped to my door both uppers and lowers with ball joints. Hmm
I have a 2007 Honda Rancher TRX400FA that needed a new carburetor.
I removed the old and installed the new carburetor and bike starts up just fine. However, on the panel instead of showing "N" or "D" it shows "- -" that blinks 4 times and ‘esp’ flashes below it.
I read on some threads on here that the error code relates to the TPS on the actual carburetor and the OHMS need to be adjusted to the correct resistance. Once that is done, then you need to go through a start up sequence by running bile for 1 minute, turn ignition of then while holding the UP and DOWN arrows simultaneously turn key on, release buttons then press UP, DOWN, UP.
My question if anyone can assist is 1. Where is the TPS located on the new carburetor and what OHMS RANGE is spec for this specific bike so I know where to put the meter? I dont have a service manual. And 2. Once adjusted properly do I go through that sequence again?
Didnt realize changing out carburetor with brand new one was going to cause all of these additional steps in order to work right.
I just inheritied a 2006 Ranger that has been sitting up. Installed new battery and filled tank with premium gas. Will run for 1/2 mile or so then stall out. Crank back up and do the same thing. Also doesnt idle very well at all and a bit hard to start. Just hoping for some advice on where to start. Thanks so much. And it has right at 2000 hrs
Also when it does start choking down and seems to be starving for fuel, it smokes from the exhaust pretty well ?
hat if had the chance to buy a use 2014 650 Outlander MAX with winch, cargo box in the rear, set up to tow stuff, a rail system on front and a small windshield and brush guards by the handlebars for just shy of a new 650 without any goodies. Would you buy it? A new 650 or splurge and get a 850 with no goodies?
We have been thinking a 850 MAX but maybe a 650 is all we really need to just putz around on trails.
Last weekend I changed the fluids in my 2016 xmr 570. I used Mobil 1 75w90 and 75w140. I noticed both of these to be clear and relatively thin gear oils and didn’t think much of it.
This weekend I changed the fluids in my GF’s 570 with the same Mobil 1 products. I started with her gearbox oil and used the remainder of the 75w140 in last weekends bottle. Then opened the new bottle and began to pour and noticed this bottle of fluid had a almost honey color and seemed a little thicker and came out of the bottle slower… WTF?
I just continued and used it in her rear diff as well.
So now I’m thinking what the heck is going on here. I looked at both bottles of 75w140 and they are exactly the same with the same barcodes as well. Is this normal… could one be older than the other… do I need to be concerned as I mixed the 2 in her gearbox?
I am in the process of installing my high lifter springs on my 2011 850xp. I was told I need to use both spring adapters on each spring but only one of the adapters will fit into the spring. Am I supposed to have one adapter on the bottom and top of each spring?
The bottom is fitting fine even though the outer diameter of the stock shock adjuster is the right width for it. If I am supposed to get both adapters on the spring? how do I get it into the top of the spring?
So i’m installing my qsc secondary clutch spring on my 2013 sportsman 500 and have a quick question. The stock spring is made so that the tabs on straight in line with each other and the holes on the clutch and helix will line up when installed. This new spring from qsc is about an inch and a half taller and the tabs are positioned 180 degrees around from each other so that i will have to turn the helix back 180 degrees in order for the spline to line up right. Is this the way it is suppose to be? If so which way am i suppose to turn the helix, clockwise so that it compresses the spring slightly or counterclockwise so that the spring is opened up more. Just doesn’t seem right to me but thought someone on here would know. Thank you.
I was given a trail boss that did not run. Long story short, rebuilt the carb and I now need to know what rpm it should idle at. I have a tach on it to help set it. Also, max rpm would be nice to know. Thanks in advance. I’m hoping someone has a factory manual for it.
Having heard and read about melting plastics and seats, the first thing I did when we bought out 570 T’s was to remove the side cover and add more reflective heat shielding. This is all that I’ve done, period.
122 hours and 990 miles and zero damage to either plastics or seat.
Old belt separated and snapped, so bought new factory belt. Took everything apart and scrubbed, polished and reassembled. Wow, I forgot what a rocket it is. Have the gold spring, greasless 18 g weights, coops mod, forgot the shim size, but added another razor thin one while I was in there. Literally forgot how much zip the damn thing has. Think the old belt was fairly dry rotted and polished looking on the edges so I’m sure it wasn’t grabbing like the new one. Back to having to lay off the throttle a little coming out of turns or starting on soft earth.
