Traded in my 2006 Kodiak 450 SE for a 2016 SE about 10 days ago. So far I’ve done a 2" lift, rear tool box, Badlands 3500 winch with KFI mount and a 20" LED bar. 26" Maxxis Mud Bugs go on at the end of the week and I have shims and clutch weights on the way. Put 30 miles of trails, mud and rocks on it last Saturday and this thing is a tank…even with stock tires. I know this is GC, but the new Kodiaks have so much in common and the Kodiak forums don’t seem to have much traffic.

hello everyone , I wrote a 7 paragraph thread but got no answer , so I thought I would shorten it . thank you to anyone that can point me in the right direction .

my bike makes a clunk noise and you can feel it when it clunks . clunk is directly related to speed im going . faster speed: faster clunk . it clunks in all gears , and is more intense in four wheel drive . you can also hear and feel the clunk very lightly in neutral when reving the engine . the clunk would seem to be coming from the drivetrain but I cant pinpoint it exactly .

I planned on bringing it to the shop, as I have no tools and just changing the axle was a hassle in the driveway ( nuts holding caliper were stripped) . but I wanted to see if someone can suggest something easy I can check like the driveshaft phasing , or belt or wheel balance or anything. im at my witts end . thank you again

I have 2001 big bear 400 4×4 been giving me tons of problems lately. My valves started clicking randomly upon adjusting then I found that my intake valve had lost its nut completely I’ve replaced it and since taking everything apart to find the darn thing my rig has a noticeable loss of power and valves are still clicking even after I put to spec any ideas?

Hi folks, first post on this forum for me. I have a 2000 Kodiak 400 that I can’t get running. As the title says, I am able to start the motor but I never get to fully warmed up – the warmer it gets, the worse it runs, until it dies completely. I thought maybe the choke was the issue because it was stuck closed. I pulled it apart and unstuck it but that didn’t seem to help. I tried searching the forum but nothing that came up seems to match my issue.

A little background on the atv – its a spare that doesn’t get run much – it ran great last summer but sat all winter. Since the spring it doesn’t want to run. Any ideas?

Thanks for any help you can give.

Hi folks, first post on this forum for me. I have a 2000 Kodiak 400 that I can’t get running. As the title says, I am able to start the motor but I never get to fully warmed up – the warmer it gets, the worse it runs, until it dies completely. I thought maybe the choke was the issue because it was stuck closed. I pulled it apart and unstuck it but that didn’t seem to help. I tried searching the forum but nothing that came up seems to match my issue.

A little background on the atv – its a spare that doesn’t get run much – it ran great last summer but sat all winter. Since the spring it doesn’t want to run. Any ideas?

Thanks for any help you can give.

Looking for help / info please:
My 2010 Sportsman 550 touring goes into a start / stall condition when ambient air temp. is high 80’+ once it starts everything is fine.When you shut it down when hot it will restart and run rough very rough and stall but ONLY when it is HOT if you feather the throttle for 7 – 10 sec. it will clear and run fine. I’ve tried MAP Sensor and TPS and yes it is Calibrated, any thoughts much appreciated.

My 2004 Rancher is not charging. I have bought a new battery and run all the voltage, resistance, and continuity tests as prescribed in the service manual and those found on this forum. The system all checks out except the charging test on the battery with the atv running. From a cold start the voltage goes to 13.5 to 14 volts for about 1-2 minutes and then drops back down to the battery voltage. From a warm start, the voltage is the same as the battery. I am trying to decide whether to replace the rectifier or the stator or both.

My wife and I just purchased our first ATVs. Both Polaris sportsman, 400 and a 450. Looking forward to get out and ride.

What’s up GC?! I’ve been reading a lot of your threads for a while now and finally decided to subscribe so, here I am!

Don’t be a grammar nazi on me, as you might suspect, my first laguage is french so, I’ll try to do my best around here!

I’m an ATV enthusiast since 7 years and right now, more than ever! In fact, I dont know any of my friends that likes riding as much as I do. (wich is kinda sad cuz I would had done easily 3000 km during my first season last year with my Grizz instead of 2000km!)

I’m located in Gaspésie (eastern part of the province) so, mud, sand, and snow are all parts of my element!

See ya soon guys!

hello everyone, i need help with my bike. thanks in advance for your time :). ive read alot of forums but cant find one remotly close to my problem .

i recently purchased a 2008 outlander max 650xt with a clunk. i changed the front left cv axle as the joint was broken on the outside side. I thought this was my problem, simply an illusion lol.

with my front end jacked , left tire off and new axle in, i can feel and hear a clunk every time i move it a quarter turn. the clunk stops the hub from turning. i put the wheel on , and it stopped clunking as i turned the wheel.. so i took it for a test drive.

The clunking happens in high, low and reverse. it clunks faster as you drive faster and slows as you slowdown . its worse in 4×4 then in 2wd. if you go over about 40kmh on the road, and release the gas it slows down super fast then stops slowing down the slows down super fast then stops slowing down till it stops.( you hear this in the engine, like engine brakes going on and off) so i put it in neutral , rev the engine and you hear and feel the clunking noise very smoothly.

I hope youve all enjoyed my story and that someone will be able to help. thanks again.

ps: ive checked driveshaft phasing