hey guys, just wondering if anyone has information on the spacer that stm used to make to run their secondary with a stock primary? any info on it would be greatly appreciated, thanks

I’ve looked everywhere. No one makes a set for the gen 1 Max. I’ve heard it an axel issue to use the regular gen 1 arched arms on the Max. Has anyone found a bolt on set or if you have to make them fit, what is the difference?

Any idea what a whining noise might be after you turn the key on and before the starter engages? I’m trying to load the video but not having much luck.

Hi guys, I have a 2014 Sportsman 570 EPS that’s been having electrical issues for a while now.

Started out with a low voltage warning and then it died and wouldn’t start without a jump and would get the low voltage warning again and then die. I replaced the battery and things seemed fine for a while and then low voltage warning again and the battery would die.

I left it for a couple of weeks and then I started it again and watched the voltage which oddly enough started climbing really high after 10-15 minutes. Got up around 19 even before I turned it off.

Figured it was an issue with the voltage regulator so replaced that. Now after replacing the voltage regulator its got some odd things happening.

1 – it won’t start although it turns over fine and it doesn’t seem to be getting any spark
2 – as soon as I put some juice to the battery the fan goes on even when the key is off.

I’m thinking the ecm is gone now. $$$. Pretty much ready to bring it to the dealer but the closest one is 45 minutes away and its just a pain. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance!

Hey guys. I have a 2000 model 250 trailblazer. Got it from a guy because he was having carb trouble. Tured out to just be a piece of trash in the main jet, it has been running fine since. Was parked for 4 years. Last time i rode everything seemed fine untill i pulled down a hill and tried to back up. I hit the gas and it just bogged down. Tried a couple times and nothing. Was ideling fine by the way. Got off made sure oil was getting to it. Was smoking like normal. Motor didn’t feel hot. Got on and tried again and bogged down and back fired through carb it sounded like and hasn’t started since. Compression still feels good on pull. I suspect crank seals but do not have acusses to a leakdown tester so was wondering what yall thought or if had ever had similar problems. It sounds like it is pulling alot of air when i pull it. Thank you

I really need to make something to raise my ATV up a little when I’m working on it as my knees are starting to hate me for crawling the floor!
I’ve searched around and most jacks/stands here are quite pricey, have any of you guys made your own?
Any pics?

Hey everyone,

Looking for some help. I bought my wife a 2005 TRX400 for this last Christmas. It is having a bit of trouble staying idling so I went to go adjust the fuel mixture bit. That is when I found out that you need some special tool for the 2005s. I looked into getting one of those extended fuel mixture screws like I used to have on my old Raptor. Can’t seem to find one that will fit this bike anywhere and I also can’t find this special tool that is needed. Any help would be appreciated. I have done multiple searches of people asking these things before but I can’t really find a definitive response on something that has worked.

Thanks

Just installed a fender storage pod from a grizzly to my wife’s 570. It fits great on the left side and looks factory and it is completely dry storage. I had added these to our old 2005 Sportsman’s and it also works well on the 570.

last year I got smoked off the line by some much slower riders on can ams, not a huge deal because I was able to pass them within the first few miles but it cost me my rad getting dirt shoveled in and later some unnecessary limp mode caused from overheating.

its awkward to try and reach around with my left hand to turn the key over and then pin the throttle with my right while getting my left hand back up to the bars. I did some prodding and poking on the interwebs and with a race friend and I figured out what to wire up/tap into.

I bought the "Cambridge Push Button Momentary Switch, 20A, 12V DC, 240W" from tractor supply for $3, drilled a 1/2 hole and mounted it on the left side of my display pod, closer to the bars.

used 2 female spade style clips with ~18" of 18gauge wire, crimped and heatshrunk everything together.

remove hood piece, unplug the 4 wire harness that plugs into the back of the key switch (key switch, not the auxillary plug!)

used 2 quick splice connectors to tap into the following wires:

2014 850: one wire to keyswitch pin A which is ORANGE
one wire to keyswitch pin B which is BLUE w/ YELLOW tracer

2014 1000: one wire to keyswitch pin A which is RED w/ BROWN tracer
one wire to keyswitch pin B which is BLUE w/ YELLOW tracer

2015 850/1000: one wire to keyswitch pin A which is BROWN
one wire to keyswitch pin B which is BLUE w/ YELLOW tracer

I was told running this in parallel would give me the push to start button and the turn key as a back up. my turn key however would not work on its own after I tapped into the wires…

also, the first time I attempted to start the quad the button wouldn’t work, I pulled the quick splices back apart and found that the metal tapper wasn’t cutting through the rubber to make good contact with the copper wire. I had to strip a small piece out an re crimp the quick splice, then we worked!

unfortunately on my fourth push button start my damn plugs must have fouled again, (3rd time in a month) and all I could get was some crank no start. So tonight I’m swapping plugs and draining the gas out. guessing that VP110 is a bit much for the poor scrammy

I will take some more pics tonight of what I did

last year I got smoked off the line by some much slower riders on can ams, not a huge deal because I was able to pass them within the first few miles but it cost me my rad getting dirt shoveled in and later some unnecessary limp mode caused from overheating.

its awkward to try and reach around with my left hand to turn the key over and then pin the throttle with my right while getting my left hand back up to the bars. I did some prodding and poking on the interwebs and with a race friend and I figured out what to wire up/tap into.

I bought the "Cambridge Push Button Momentary Switch, 20A, 12V DC, 240W" from tractor supply for $3, drilled a 1/2 hole and mounted it on the left side of my display pod, closer to the bars.

used 2 female spade style clips with ~18" of 18gauge wire, crimped and heatshrunk everything together.

remove hood piece, unplug the 4 wire harness that plugs into the back of the key switch (key switch, not the auxillary plug!)

used 2 quick splice connectors to tap into the following wires:

2014 850: one wire to keyswitch pin A which is ORANGE
one wire to keyswitch pin B which is BLUE w/ YELLOW tracer

2014 1000: one wire to keyswitch pin A which is RED w/ BROWN tracer
one wire to keyswitch pin B which is BLUE w/ YELLOW tracer

2015 850/1000: one wire to keyswitch pin A which is BROWN
one wire to keyswitch pin B which is BLUE w/ YELLOW tracer

I was told running this in parallel would give me the push to start button and the turn key as a back up. my turn key however would not work on its own after I tapped into the wires…

also, the first time I attempted to start the quad the button wouldn’t work, I pulled the quick splices back apart and found that the metal tapper wasn’t cutting through the rubber to make good contact with the copper wire. I had to strip a small piece out an re crimp the quick splice, then we worked!

unfortunately on my fourth push button start my damn plugs must have fouled again, (3rd time in a month) and all I could get was some crank no start. So tonight I’m swapping plugs and draining the gas out. guessing that VP110 is a bit much for the poor scrammy

I will take some more pics tonight of what I did