Tag Archives: Around the Water Cooler

identifying model

Hi all. How does one determine what year/model? I’ve a Polaris ATV – Pretty sure it’s a ’90s model. It’s a 350 2-stroke, 4×4 liquid cooled. Stickers say 350 Liquid 4X4. Can’t find any model/year stamp anywhere else. I bought a property (estate sale) and everything with it, including the Polaris. The thing quit on me the other day – lost power, then stopped. No compression. Pulled the top end off, and there we have it, piston is toast. Previous owner had disconnected the oil injector line (either because it didn’t work or he didn’t trust it) and I’ve been unknowingly diluting the pre-mix in the tank by putting in straight gas. Big end moves freely with no binding or excess play. Haven’t run the machine hard, just riding around the property at low speeds.
Looks like a fresh top end will be less than $150, I’m willing to gamble on the bottom end being ok and rebuild just the top. So, I need to know how to determine what model and year this is to order parts. Any suggestions? My guess from comparing pics is it’s a Trailboss 350L, but that is just a guess and no idea of the year
-Matt

Carb Issue – Polaris Ranger

I know this is a grizzly forum, but I’m not active on any Polaris forums so I figured I would try to get your guys opinions.

Dad has a 2004 Polaris ranger 500 he uses around the farm to spray, check fields, etc. This winter it started leaking gas pretty good and draining the bowl (it has a fuel pump) when you would park it. I changed the Needle /seat and cleaned the carb I thought pretty good. Still would leak from the overflow tube enough that you could see a drop or two fall after you ran it, and it would drain the bowl just slower. So I bought the drain screw because it looked wore down. Replaced it, thought I had it stopped, but it is still leaking. Now it is leaking so little that if you start it and idle it, it wont leak, and if you touch your finger to the overflow tube (Doesn’t have a hose on it right now) your finger stays dry. If you give the machine a little bit of gas your finger will then get a drop on it when you touch the overflow tube. and Seems to leak a little bit more with the more gas you give it.

He wants to use it to do some spraying this weekend and I’m going to tear the carb apart and clean it one more time. I tried looking on youtube, there is a piece / o ring that a guy with a sportsman said you need to check – but I’m pretty sure that piece isn’t in the ranger carb (since I’ve had it apart three times now!). I have attached a screenshot of the piece the guy in the YOUTUBE video placed a bunch of emphasis on.

I guess if I can’t figure it out, I will tell him to take it somewhere but now its down to the point he wants to use it. I don’t know much about float height but I don’t think it could have gotten changed just by operating the machine could it? I guess I could buy a new float and see if that helps anything.

Thanks

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660 purple epi spring need thinner belt?

I just purchased and installed a secondary clutch purple epi spring and when I went to put the cvt back together the belt wouldn’t fit into the secondary like it should it sat higher and would not clear the cover if I tried to put it on. Do I need some special belt now too or did I do something wrong. It seems like because the new spring is more rigid than stock it’s pushing the secondary together too tight. Trying to put it together this week so I need advice asap. Thanks

Looking to buy a new Cordless Drill,Whats Good!?

Well I bought a cheaper craftsman cordless drill last year,and served its purpose most of the time,But something happened to the battery where it wont take a charge,The cost of a new battery is not worth it to me as I didnt really like the drill anyway.

So I looked around and found a Ryobi drill/driver/hammer Drill with 2 batteries for $100. I bought it,got it home and tried to just screw in some standar 1-1/4" screws into my workbench on the driver settings and it would Not countersink them,even at the setting with the most torque,the clutch would engage and that was it. Seem to have a bit more torque it I would switch to the drill setting but at that point I figure whats the point of the different settings,So I returned it.

So I guess in my case I got what I paid for,So Im looking again. This wont be a daily use tool,Just stuff around the house. But im willing to go a bit more,im gonna say $200 is about my limit for a nice performing drill/driver. I dont really need a hammer drill as I dont drill enough in concrete but would be nice to have if I did. I seen a nice makita drill with hammer/drill/drive for about $180,but I see some in the Milwauakee line with Brushless motors for a tad more,as well as some dewalts and rigids. Brushless worth the little extra money?

Let me know what you think is good or what you used? Thanks!

Strut repairable?

I have a lot of movement in my hub when grabbing the bottom and top of my tire lots of movement side to side which is due to a bad tie rod end. I have located what I believe is part of the cause or the whole cause (don’t know how to tell if the inside of the strut is wore out) but what I have found that is moving is in the picture. Can that piece be replaced and if so what is it called? Or do I need to replace the strut?

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