Just bought the tools to change the water pump seal or rotary seal plus the oil seal behind it, total bill 138.07 it’s not itemized but about 35 bucks for the pusher plate 43.00 bucks for the water pump seal plate and then the rotary seal plus oil seal adds up to 138.07, I still have to get the four screws plus nut and washer to complete the job. I’m looking at the rotary seal and it slides over the shaft, but inside the seal there is no rubber ring or anything at all to prevent fluid from passing into weeping hole cavity, I’m wondering if this is why so many can am are leaking. I’ve seen rotaty seals at work and they all have some sort of seal on the inside that slips over the shaft, seems really cheap compared to crane seals or other industry pump seals. Asked the parts guy if this is common to wear out and he said to common. After all I only have 800 miles and around 125 hours of light use. Anyways I cannot see how the seal" seals on the shaft", but I can see how fluid can gets between the shaft and seal because its just metal on metal. Maybe i’m missing something here……. in the design of the seal but I will ask an engineer buddy if knows how it seals. No if the dealer here in Canada was to do the job he wants another 2.5 hours plus new antifreeze you are looking at over 400.00cnd, hard to believe, and they wonder why the shop service area is almost empty, everyone is trying to do it there selves. We should all send BRP a letter saying the Chinese machines are better because I know one guy who has one and he has not had these seal problems at all.

Just bought the tools to change the water pump seal or rotary seal plus the oil seal behind it, total bill 138.07 it’s not itemized but about 35 bucks for the pusher plate 43.00 bucks for the water pump seal plate and then the rotary seal plus oil seal adds up to 138.07, I still have to get the four screws plus nut and washer to complete the job. I’m looking at the rotary seal and it slides over the shaft, but inside the seal there is no rubber ring or anything at all to prevent fluid from passing into weeping hole cavity, I’m wondering if this is why so many can am are leaking. I’ve seen rotaty seals at work and they all have some sort of seal on the inside that slips over the shaft, seems really cheap compared to crane seals or other industry pump seals. Asked the parts guy if this is common to wear out and he said to common. After all I only have 800 miles and around 125 hours of light use. Anyways I cannot see how the seal" seals on the shaft", but I can see how fluid can gets between the shaft and seal because its just metal on metal. Maybe i’m missing something here……. in the design of the seal but I will ask an engineer buddy if knows how it seals. No if the dealer here in Canada was to do the job he wants another 2.5 hours plus new antifreeze you are looking at over 400.00cnd, hard to believe, and they wonder why the shop service area is almost empty, everyone is trying to do it there selves. We should all send BRP a letter saying the Chinese machines are better because I know one guy who has one and he has not had these seal problems at all.

Hey guys my 13 850 xp sportsman is not idling correctly it bounces between 1000-1300 and when you accelerate a little it backfires and sounds like it’s running on one cylinder. No check engine light no smoking no engine knock any ideas? I checked the plugs they look good bike only has 100hrs any help is appreciated

Lots of you guys advised to get new tires but I sort of shrugged it off as I already thought "its good enough" and I will try when the stockers wear down a bit.

Well I ride on a lot of sloppy rocky trails and ended up puncturing a tire and by the time I got home it was nearly flat. Hole was in the side and it just didn’t seem like a good idea to plug it so I came on here and did some research. Went with the maxxis bighorn tires in 26×9-12 and 26×12-12. They are a little wider and offer more protection for the wheels although its too late for that as mine are already all chewed up.

I was impressed by the tires when I first saw them. Super aggressive compared to stock. It wasn’t until the tire shop gave me back by original tires when I noticed how squishy and weak they felt. I know the Bighorn’s are tough and thats exactly why I went for them.

Anyways no real feedback just yet but I plan to update when I have some riding time on them.

**Anyone know what will remove the blue lettering?**

Lots of you guys advised to get new tires but I sort of shrugged it off as I already thought "its good enough" and I will try when the stockers wear down a bit.

Well I ride on a lot of sloppy rocky trails and ended up puncturing a tire and by the time I got home it was nearly flat. Hole was in the side and it just didn’t seem like a good idea to plug it so I came on here and did some research. Went with the maxxis bighorn tires in 26×9-12 and 26×12-12. They are a little wider and offer more protection for the wheels although its too late for that as mine are already all chewed up.

I was impressed by the tires when I first saw them. Super aggressive compared to stock. It wasn’t until the tire shop gave me back by original tires when I noticed how squishy and weak they felt. I know the Bighorn’s are tough and thats exactly why I went for them.

Anyways no real feedback just yet but I plan to update when I have some riding time on them.

**Anyone know what will remove the blue lettering?**

Lots of you guys advised to get new tires but I sort of shrugged it off as I already thought "its good enough" and I will try when the stockers wear down a bit.

Well I ride on a lot of sloppy rocky trails and ended up puncturing a tire and by the time I got home it was nearly flat. Hole was in the side and it just didn’t seem like a good idea to plug it so I came on here and did some research. Went with the maxxis bighorn tires in 26×9-12 and 26×12-12. They are a little wider and offer more protection for the wheels although its too late for that as mine are already all chewed up.

I was impressed by the tires when I first saw them. Super aggressive compared to stock. It wasn’t until the tire shop gave me back by original tires when I noticed how squishy and weak they felt. I know the Bighorn’s are tough and thats exactly why I went for them.

Anyways no real feedback just yet but I plan to update when I have some riding time on them.

**Anyone know what will remove the blue lettering?**

Let me know what you think…

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This will be a thread with my thoughts on the CST Ancla tire that I bought for my 550 Grizzly.
Have in mind that in Sweden where I live we ride a bit different from USA. We don’t have the trail system that you have. With the offroad laws that we have it’s only legal to ride offroad if you do it for work.

I choose the Ancla tire for different reasons. First I looked at the Pitbull Growlers, but I couldn’t use my spikes on them. Then I looked at the Blackwater, but they are expensive here where I live.
The Ancla had a fair price for me (about 620 USD) and the lugs made it possible to use my Best Grip spikes.

A friend helped me to put them on my original Yamaha 12" rims. A bit stiff, but they got on. Very well balanced according to his tire balancing machine.

Inflated them to 5 psi in the front and 4.4 psi in the back. With that pressure the wheels meassure 25 2/3". The lugs are 1" in height.

I did do the clutch spacer mod a couple of weeks before I bought the wheels and I have not ridden with the original tires with that mod that much. It works really well with the Anclas thou. They do not feel heavy when I hit the throttle.

Right now we have mostly snow and ice where I live, so no mud or skag or anything like that yet. Had a really fun experience in the snow today thou. I could go where I wouldn’t have a chance to go with the original tires. Full wheel spin and the tires just spun thru the snow with ease.

It has a directional pattern and you feel that you have worse traction when you hit reverse.

My riding is mostly slow riding. Plowing the snow in the winter and pulling out logs from the woods on a trailer in the summer.
Not that much high speed riding. I will put the tires thru some tests for this review thou.

Went up to 40 mph with great comfort on hard packed today. No wobbling. Maybe a bit stiffer than the original tire, a more sturdy feeling.

Next week I will do some work in the forest in the southern parts of Sweden, so then I will experience more mud like conditions.

I will fill this thread with all my opinions on this tire as long as I ride with them.

So I picked up a 98′ Grizzly 600 about a week ago, it needs new skins. This is my first ATV, pretty excited about it.

BUT…. the tire sizing is making my head spin a bit.

So currently I have at25x8-12’s on the front, and at25x10-10’s on the rear. (I think they are the stock steel rims)

Well I’d like to upgrade the rims/tires.. Did a little looking around and it seemed like ITP SS312’s were the "cool" thing to do, (And they look good)

So I’m looking at getting the K299 Bearclaw 26×11-12’s for the rear, and K299 Bearclaw 26×9-12’s for the front..

Here is the question, I’m having a hard time finding the rims/tires that match/fit together, while making sure they have the 4/110 bolt pattern.

AND I live up here in Alaska, which makes sites I order from limited due to shipping (one site wanted $130 PER TIRE for shipping) D:

Thanks!

Where can I get manta green powder for powder coating? I need 2lbs and cant find it anywhere other than allpowderpaints.com but it has been out of stock there for awhile.