Greetings, everyone. 2 weeks ago, I purchased a new 2016 Grizzly 700SE. This is the first new vehicle of any kind that I’ve ever purchased.

Understanding that the engine runs rather lean from the factory, today I installed an EHS fuel controller and set it up appropriately in regards to my current configuration. Understanding that engine break-in will contaminate my oil with metal shavings, I changed the engine oil over with a new filter and some Rotella T 15w40. I also installed a "gold plug" for good measure. I’ll change the oil over again at 200 miles as per the schedule in the owner’s manual (I’m at 32 miles now). I’ll change over the diff oils and install gold plugs as well shortly (didn’t have time to get that done today).

One concern that I have is in regards to my warranty. The oil I used appears to meet Yamaha’s spec for viscosity, and is JASO-MA classified, therefore should be perfectly safe for wet clutches. The dealer recommended Yamalube (of course). The dealer insinuated that not using "Yamalube" *could* cause issues should I require warranty service. I meant to e-mail Yamaha (and get a response in writing) however I can’t quite locate an e-mail address to use for such purposes. Is there a consensus on whether or not it’s OK in the eyes of Yamaha to use other brands of oil, providing it meets the specs stated in the manual? I’d find it rather ludicrous to be tied to an obviously overpriced (not that it’s such an issue) and almost surely inferior (this being my main concern) oil.

As previously stated, I also intend to change out the diff / final drive oils and install gold plugs soon. I do have a quart of "Yamalube" which I intend to change out within a day or two, then follow up at my 200 mile service with something better. I’ve read many use Amsoil. I’d be open to recommendations for other oils for use in the diffs though.

I’d also like to install some grip / thumb heaters before the end of the year. I know there are a number different options (heat demons, moose, some other brand that’s not coming to mind). They all seem to be within roughly the same price range. I’d be interested in any input regarding which choice may be best and if there are advantages / disadvantages from one brand to the other.

Thanks in advance for any input offered. Photo added because, well, why not!

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Hi,

Polaris 700 EFI 2007
after 1-2 miles running normally the engine stop suddenly, usually when slowing down for a turn
refuse to restart for about 20 minutes, than again 1-2 miles working well than stop.

any idea, thanks

Hi,

Polaris 700 EFI 2007
after 1-2 miles running normally the engine stop suddenly, usually when slowing down for a turn
refuse to restart for about 20 minutes, than again 1-2 miles working well than stop.

any idea, thanks

Does anyone know where I can find a online service manual for a 2013 outlander xmr 1000?

Well, I have the dreaded air fault / engine light, and with extensive testing I have determined that it is the PCM (calibrated module) causing all my problems.
I have decided to bypass the module, and just use some switches and a dual needle pressure gauge. I have ordered all the parts off of EBAY for $105.00 USD shipped.
The parts list is:
– 2 momentary push button switches – Waterproof Start Horn Momentary Blue LED Light Push Button Switch Boat Car | eBay
– 3 locking push button switches – Blue LED Metal Switch Self Latching Locking Push Button 16mm Waterproof | eBay
– 1 52MM dual needle air gauge – Viair 2" 160 PSI White Dual Needle Gauge Air Ride Bags | eBay
– 1 10′ 1/4" OD air line – 1 4 Tubing for Push to Connect Fittings Black 10 ft Cut PE0417K | eBay
– 3 1/4" OD PTC Y fittings – One Touch Push in Fitting Y 1 4" OD Tubing Pneumatic Air Push to Connect Fitting | eBay
– 2 1/4" OD PTC plug caps – Push in to Connect Tubing Quick Cap Plug Fitting 1 4" OD Mettleair | eBay
– 2 1/4" OD PTC 1/8" NTC female – One Push Touch in Straight Female Fitting 1 4ODX 1 8NPT | eBay
I plan on installing the gauge and switches on the multifunction gauge cover, the gauge on the right side and the switches on the left side. I have attached my schematic so you can get an idea of my plan.
http://www.can-amforum.com/forums/at…1&d=1460866637
I will update this post once I get the parts in and build the system.

Attached Images

PCM Bypass no diodes.png (350.5 KB)

I’m entertaining the idea of replacing the stock tires for Zillas. What I’m after are pics of either the 27" or 28" on stock xt rims. I’d like to stay away from lifts and spacers so if the 28’s don’t fit without please let me know… I’m looking for a clear yes or no……oh btw I have a gen 2 model thanks ahead of time for your responses

Guided mine tour. Skip to 36 on this one to skip the trails before the mine.

While riding my stock, tires and quad, in two wheel drive. while on sand, my front dif blew up. It is under warranty, do any of you know if they will give me any issues repairing it?

Hi All,

I have a 2008 Polaris Outlaw 525 IRS that I cannot get to idle consistently. I have cleaned the carb really well and have recently replaced the throttle cable. The problem existed before the new cable so I do not suspect that this is the issue. The reading on the TPS sensor through the yellow and black wires is currently set at .704 k ohms and at 5.21 through the black and blue wires. I cannot find anything that tells me what the specs should be set to so I cannot verify if its correct or not. I also put a new spark plug recently as well so I am starting to run out of ideas. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

KCJoe

Where do I put the drain or vent at the bottom of my carb ? I have a grizzly 660

sent from my lg