i would just like to post my report on how this light performed for me. i was i will start by saying that in this thread:

http://www.grizzlycentral.com/forum/….html?langid=2

….i have to assume mgm550esp has not owned another brand led light bar. at least not a good one.

i intentionally got the mictuning bar because i wanted to try another brand that i hadnt tried yet. just for research if you will.. totrons are affordable, but why spend $70 on 36w of light when i can spend $45..

well… i received the identical bar as his.. 50w 11" bar.. and i am extremely disappointed. i put it on my ltz400 which has decent headlights. on par with a grizzly 660. nice reflectors, but still only 2 h6m bulbs. this bar is a bit more spread out than the stock bulbs, and maybe a hair brighter. real "cool" white color that people like. in the shop the newly installed bar looked pretty darn bright.. i can see why it has ok reviews on amazon, and by mgm. with only the stock bulbs to compare it to, it seems to be an improvement. if you dont know what led bars are supposed to do, youll be happy…

but once i got it out on the trails, i was extremely disappointed. compared to the other light bars out there, it under-performed. i have a pair of 12w totron cubes(the 4x 3w led ones) on my honda fourtrax. they were brighter than this. then my buddy’s quad that has a pair of totron 18w cubes(6 3w leds each), completely blew it out of the water. to the point where i couldnt have him follow me because the shadow was too distracting. obviously there is no need to compare it to the 72w bar on my grizz, or do a comparison to rigid(which i didnt have on hand to compare to this, however ive seen a 20" bar next to my totron and i know totrons are in the same ballpark as them…

anyways…

this is even dimmer than the riorand 18w cubes that i wasnt a big fan of.

ill put it this way. normally when running 36w of light on my other quads it lights up the trails enough that i dont really have to change my riding speed or attentiveness from day to night. with this bar there were times id switch back to stock to get a bit more distance in some conditions.

i was really hoping to have a fun comparison where this light would compair with things with similar wattages or sizes, but it doesnt. its honestly a waste of money. $10 more and i can have WAY more light with a totron bar, or set of cubes. this will go in the junk pile… possibly for the lawnmower, or maybe a reverse light on something. im hoping they give me my money back.

idk. i worry that itll look like i have some sort of totron affiliation out there… but i dont. i almost did… i was thinking about becoming a site sponsor and even creating a small website… but the wholesaler gave me some issues on the business practice side of things, so i use them, but certainly dont have any desire to promote them. its just the light bar i first got about 4 years ago.. that had a few reviews, and then ive gotten more cause i know they work. i wish i could find another brand out there, but so far ive struck out with kawell, riorand and now mictuning… aurora would be my next try, but they are a bit more than totron. ive seen reviews out there that say they are actually better than rigid in the output department. im not suggesting you buy totron… im suggesting that you dont buy mictuning.

anyways, i hope im saving some people, both here, and finding this through a google search for reviews, some money and hassle. spend your money elsewhere.

:gcrules:

I won’t like to have my renegade dyno tuned rather than butt dyno it. One place will. Not return my calls or emails, the other local guy is swamped and is months out. Anyone know any places I can get this done at?

Do I need different axles for a 3-5 lift or will stock work ?

Just bought a ’14 Polaris Scrambler 850XP. Rode in PA this weekend, had a blast. Looking forward to more.

Looking for advice on how to get the rear drive shaft out, I just did the front shaft and replaced the U joints and on my first ride the rear U-joints crapped out on me. Looks easy to get to, just looking for tips on how to get it out.

replaced all pads this weekend
needed to loosen off master cylinder cap to compress piston each time to fit back over rotor but always tightened it back up before squeezing lever.

After pads were installed bike didn’t roll very easily in neutral, is this normal?
Also while on the left with wheels off, I ran it in 2wd and front wheels spun, is this normal?

Thanks

2009 Honda foreman 500

I just tore a lower boot on my 500. Decided to replace the axle. Axle wasn’t seated properly so I had to re-do the whole thing. (Axle popped out of transfer case.) Had some thick grey oil leak out while I ran to auto parts store to get a new 17 mm socket (differential oil?). Now there is a squeaking sound, like brake squealers. I think that loss of (differential) oil may be the cause. What do you think? If it is that oil how do I replace it and what with? I’m trying to read through the online manual as you read this.

Thanks in advance

2009 Honda foreman 500

I just tore a lower boot on my 500. Decided to replace the axle. Axle wasn’t seated properly so I had to re-do the whole thing. (Axle popped out of transfer case.) Had some thick grey oil leak out while I ran to auto parts store to get a new 17 mm socket (differential oil?). Now there is a squeaking sound, like brake squealers. I think that loss of (differential) oil may be the cause. What do you think? If it is that oil how do I replace it and what with? I’m trying to read through the online manual as you read this.

Thanks in advance

So I am looking at going to a different tire and want to see if anyone is running or tried to run the 27" Zillas on their touring. Not to be rude, but to get straight to the point, it doesn’t matter if you have them on your standard 570. The touring model has the rear passenger foot rest braces that can be problematic for rubbing issues. I’ve read some posts regarding the 850 touring guys trying 28" zillas, but not sure how the 570 compares to the 850 T as far as wheel well clearance. I typically run 5 PSI all four corners and 5.5 psi in rear if wife is with me. Seems from what I have read the Zillas measure true to size measuring them at 7 psi unloaded (not mounted on machine). Guys measuring on machine seem to get anywhere from a 1/2 inch to an inch shorter depending on PSI when mounted. However I’m not sure how much the compression would help prevent rubbing at the footrest braces. I know bobx2 said he had some rubbing issues with 26" Bearclaw HTRs until he made some bending modifications. I already have delta steel 4+3 rims on the machine. Thanks for any help.

So a quick reason why I am considering swapping out in case anyone is wondering. I put the 25" Artrax tires on, and haven’t had any problems out of them, but it seems more and more the people I ride with only want to go to a local atv place that is on the canadian river (sundog), so its lots of sand and mud if we’ve had rain. They also have dedicated mud pits there. The Artrax are not mud tires, so they ball up in the sticky mud. They do great on regular trails and rocks though, which is what I would prefer to go ride. May keep them as a second set, but we’ll see. I’m still trying to get my buddies away from the convenience of Sundog and make the 1.5 hour drive to cooler places to ride.

So the 1st ride this year didn’t go so well. 1st I broke what i thought was a left front axle in the diff in the very 1st hole i used 4wd on my Xmr 1K. A couple hours later my wife tore out her rear diff on her 650. I pulled the axle out this morning and it was not broke anywhere. when jacked up and turning the right front wheel there is clearly no power to the left. I made a loud grinding noise when it happened, would this be the Visco or the spider gears?Thanks