Anybody use e tracks on their trailer to tie down their ATV looking to put these on my flat bed trailer to secure my XMR1K, 850XP

I have a 2002 Honda TRX350FE2A that is giving me problems getting past 3rd gear most of the time. Angle sensor replaced with no luck. Rebuilding the transmission. Replaced anything that was out of spec or looked worn. Before I took the engine out I did all that electrical troubleshooting per the service manual and everything checked out ok. Before I put the engine back in, is there anything else I should be looking at mechanically? Also, any ideas on possible electrical problems would be welcome. The service manual does not cover ghosts in the machine.

Thanks, Cobbuster:ph34r:

Hey guys, new here, but far from new to ATVs. I’ve owned a 2005 Kodiak 450 for a couple of years, I bought it from the original owner who unfortunately, left the ATV outside rather than store it inside. When I bought it, it only had 3800 kms on it and it only has 4200 on it now. A couple of weeks ago while servicing all of my small engine equipment, I changed all the oils on the Kodiak, which I’ve done at least twice before that. Imagine the look on my face when I pull the drain bolt for the rear differential and not a drop of gear oil comes out! Long story short, it was still turning so I pulled it out of the ATV and ordered an All Balls differential oil and bearing rebuild kit for it. I searched clear across Canada for a used differential and only found two that likely would have needed to be rebuilt too. Used diffs were $400+tax/shipping and seals/bearings they might have possibly needed. The bearing kit was only $140 and rebuilding it myself, I knew what I would have when finished. I took it apart myself, the gears and case were still in good condition, however only half of the pinion bearing was there and the other bearings were not in good shape either. Knowing the crown gear had to be pressed off to replace that bearing, I let a friend who runs an ATV repair shop do the rebuild for me. Now, the day he rebuilt it, he called me and said he wasn’t 100% sure how the pinion seal went in. When I took it apart, only the rubber part of the seal came out and the steel ring was unknowingly left inside the bearing retainer, however we did not know that and at first, thought it was part of the retainer. Before we had figured it out, he tried to tap the seal in from the threaded side of the retainer, using a similar sized socket, which he knew didn’t seem right but couldn’t figure any other way to install it with the old seal ring still there. The new seal was 3-4mm bigger in diameter and there was no way it would fit, so after 2 or 3 hits, he said, this can’t be right, we must be missing something. That did not appear to damage the seal, and shortly after, he took a punch and removed the rest of the old seal and we realized our error. I should add to this that I have the factory Yamaha Service manual which only shows reassembly of the straight axle differential and not the IRS differential, which is different. So we managed to get the seal in and finished rebuilding the differential. Everything felt fine, the yoke felt tight but still turned and when I re-installed it on the ATV, everything seemed to be ok, up until this morning, which is a week after it was rebuilt. I’ve only driven it about 5 kms total since rebuild and this morning I was shocked to find a puddle of differential oil on the floor in my garage. On closer inspection, I could tell it had come out around the seal in the pinion gear/bearing retainer and there was also gear oil all over the yoke of the driveshaft.

My question is, what if anything, did we do wrong? I know obviously we screwed up on the old seal and trying to tap the new seal in. Even though, visually it didn’t seem to damage the seal. But I wonder if we may have stretched it, preventing it from sealing properly. Does that seal need to be greased where it meets the shaft before the shaft goes in? Or possibly greased around the edge of the seal where it meets the differential housing? On the straight axle differential in the manual, it shows greasing the seal, but as I said, there is no diagram of the IRS. I think when he put the seal in, he tapped it into the retainer and then put the yoke through it. The seal fits perfectly on the yoke end, I’m wondering if it shouldn’t have been installed on the yoke first, and then tightened down with the nut on the pinion shaft? Or would that really have made any difference? Can someone show me a proper manual that actually has the IRS differential re-assembly in it? The manual I have says March 2002 First Edition right after the cover page, so I’m wondering if there’s a newer edition manual that I haven’t found. I’ll post a link of a parts breakdown/diagram so that you can get a visual idea of what I’m talking about, if you don’t happen to be familiar with this differential, as we were.

http://www.yamahapartspitstop.com/oe…d7/drive-shaft

#13 is the pinion seal that I’m talking about. #14 was included with the kit, but not replaced as the old o-ring was in good condition. It’s placement is not clear in the diagram, but it is installed at the top of the bearing retainer.

Thanks for any help.

Hi this is cobbuster

I have a small shop and will repair atvs blowers and mowers. I do not repair weed eaters unless they are commercial units.
hope i can receive or provide info that help us all.:ph34r:

Well, I started the beast to move it yesterday & noticed smoke out of the exhaust (kind of a greyish colour) and it sticks around for a while (doesn’t quickly dissipate). Checked the plugs & they are black (plug fouling hasn’t ever been a problem with is bike). Did a campression test and getting around 120 psi. I tried pulling the dipstick with engine running…….. mistake. Crankcase seems to be under pressure?

Was probably like it the last time it was used (about 2 weeks ago) just didn’t notice it. Didn’t notice any problems with lost power & starts easily. Checked the oil and it seems normal.

Really hope I am not looking at a top end rebuild. Anybody got any ideas?

We’ve owned 450’s,550’s Yamaha Quads and I’ve never ever had any issues with a clutch slipping until now that we own a 700. Talked with the dealer, he was scratching his head saying it was very odd to have that slip on a 1yr old machine. I opened the drain plug on the housing and a couple of drops of water came out, is that all it takes to make it slip? It has not been swamped, just rained on for a couple days sitting on truck deck. We have a Forestry Consultant business so i have all kinds of drivers from experienced to people who think they have experience. The only issue i could’ve seen with the inexperienced as the 700’s really have to be in "Low" until going "Balls Out" down the road. Anything else that could be going down?

We’ve owned 450’s,550’s Yamaha Quads and I’ve never ever had any issues with a clutch slipping until now that we own a 700. Talked with the dealer, he was scratching his head saying it was very odd to have that slip on a 1yr old machine. I opened the drain plug on the housing and a couple of drops of water came out, is that all it takes to make it slip? It has not been swamped, just rained on for a couple days sitting on truck deck. We have a Forestry Consultant business so i have all kinds of drivers from experienced to people who think they have experience. The only issue i could’ve seen with the inexperienced as the 700’s really have to be in "Low" until going "Balls Out" down the road. Anything else that could be going down?

So i have a 2005 polaris scrambler 4X4 HO. I have recently been riding when i started feeling my chain jump or skip…. I couldn’t ride more than 2 meters without the chain slipping/jumping and me losing all power. My chain is fairly loose and also skips when i put the bike into gear. I hoped off and looked into the sprocket area from the engine. The chain is jumping after going around the sprocket and heading back towards the rear tires. Is my chain too lose and needs to be tightened or replaced, or is my main sprocket worn out? The sprocket i am talking about is the one connected to the engine that powers the chain. Please help!

So i have a 2005 polaris scrambler 4X4 HO. I have recently been riding when i started feeling my chain jump or skip…. I couldn’t ride more than 2 meters without the chain slipping/jumping and me losing all power. My chain is fairly loose and also skips when i put the bike into gear. I hoped off and looked into the sprocket area from the engine. The chain is jumping after going around the sprocket and heading back towards the rear tires. Is my chain too lose and needs to be tightened or replaced, or is my main sprocket worn out? The sprocket i am talking about is the one connected to the engine that powers the chain. Please help!

First and foremost I did contact highlifter seeking technical advice this issue, but they were unable to help me.

I purchased a lift kit for my grizzly. The part number is correct and all of the hardware appears to be correct as well.

After installing the block to the front a-arm, I found the a-arm does not drop low enough for the base of the shock to fit into the block. I suspect that the axle is the reason it won’t bend any further. The only option I could see to make the shock fit into the block would be to compress the shock. Now aside from that being a total PITA to do, it occurs to me that compressing the shock would result in even greater downward force on the axle.

I am wondering if that is truly what needs to be done for the install, or if there is some sort of compatibility issue between the lift kit hardware and my machine.