Ok, so slowly getting the old grizz back on track and now i am trying to get the factory winch re installed, and yup can’t figure out how!
On the main dial switch ( that allows the winch to go either in or out) there are 4 places that i need to attach the 4 wires. I know that there are a positive/negative from the winch itself, and the same goes for two of the wires coming from the battery. So my assumption is that from the battery the places that are marked positive and negative should be attached, but then there are the numbers 1 & 2 and i’m not 100% on which one is positive…don’t want to fry the winch if i connect it wrong.
The other question i have is regarding the toggle switch…tehre are two flat prongs and i’m not sure if there is something that attaches to both, or just one??
More specifically, where are you guys cutting the holes for the hoses. From what I understand, the directions on the RDC kit are vague and I don’t want to cut holes and then decide there was a better place to run them. Looking for some help from you guys who have already installed this kit and have determined the best location to run the hoses. Thanks for any input!
I have a 1997 Foreman 400 that had some piston slap and needed to be rebuilt because its been burning oil for a while. 675 hours and 3,xxx miles, so I’m not surprised at this point. Pulled it all apart last night and found that the cylinder isn’t damaged too much, but defiantly needs to be bored. Valves look good and are straight, and crank/rod doesn’t have any play. So here is my thought on the rebuild.
Can I just call it good, get the .040 over kit and have it bored to match that at a machine shop? Am I going to sacrifice reliability going that much over? I don’t care if it has more power, I would rather have it be just as reliable as it was. Thanks for your input! This is my first time rebuilding a top end. Link to .040 kit
We have a newly launched website that is really user friendly! There is a vehicle finder on our site that lets you search specifically for parts that are specific to your vehicle!
Not only can we replate your cylinder, we can get you a great deal below retail on aftermarket parts (big bore kit, pistons, gaskets, etc.).
Feel free to check it out and if you have any questions on a repair, let me know!
We have a newly launched website that is really user friendly! There is a vehicle finder on our site that lets you search specifically for parts that are specific to your vehicle!
Not only can we replate your cylinder, we can get you a great deal below retail on aftermarket parts (big bore kit, pistons, gaskets, etc.).
Feel free to check it out and if you have any questions on a repair, let me know!
I have a problem with the steering on my 300 4×4. At times in 4 wheel drive the steering gets hard to turn. If I go into 2 wheel drive, back up and put it back in 4 wheel. It will work again.
I read or heard somewhere, it was the oil in the hubs. I changed the oil and made sure they were full at 4 o’clock position.
Any help?
For those with the Polaris hydraulic plow angle system (pn 2879635), I have found there is a dummy electrical termination point mounted behind the bumper to plug the wire in when your plow is not in use. See pictures.
Just a reminder we can reman you crankshafts in house here at nFLOW! Just give us a call at 812-402-8282 to get the process started. Below is a picture of a remanufactured Ranger/RZR 900 crank. www.nflowmotorsports.com
A buddy of mine bought a 2013 Sportsman 500 H.O from a older guy with about 8,000 miles on it. The fan refuses to kick on. With 12V directly to the fan it comes on. I unplugged the wire from the sensor that goes into the radiator and I jumped it off with a jumper wire and the fan didn’t come on but I did hear the relay click. I checked the connection at the little block next to the battery but I’m not really sure how to test it. I tried to do the engine on unplug coolant temp sensor to see if it defaults to on but I have hear some people say the new ones won’t do anything when you unplug the temp sensor and his didn’t do anything either. Any other ideas. Or is there a way to test the switch off the radiator or a way to test the block by the battery? Thanks for all the help in advance!
